I would love to come out and watch, but a new washer turned into painting the laundry room, then new cabinets over the new washer and so on.... maybe I can work on the car NEXT week end......

Let me know when you are going to the Ackerman parking lot.... I would like to compare notes....

Billy

Nice project there.. its painted similiar to the color scheme on mine. If you need some parts let me know, I just parted out a '91 to finish mine.

I think I'm pretty well fixed. I might want a spare steering box (quick ratio), but other than that, I'm in pretty good shape (I think....you never know).

Kevin,
I was going back through this thread and saw that there is a local F-body group here in Columbus. How do I get hooked up with them?

Their website is here COFBA or PM axoid as he is the current president.

just clicked over and it's very cool. Its on the to do list....

Ok, I learned from Mitch and Glenn and started attacking the seam filler with a knotted wire wheel. It makes pretty short work of it, and one heck of a mess, all at the same time. It's good that it takes it out so fast because there is so much of it. This car is one big ball of sealer. We'll take out what we can and then touch up the paint with something to prevent rust. No, that's not the "final" work in the pics, just some "in progress" shots since we've been pretty light on those lately.

The accusump is mounted. I don't like where it's mounted, but until the car gets caged, it is where it is. I stuck it in the very rear of the car, but at least it's in there. I'll move it once the fuel tank comes out, but in the meantime, it's going to stay there. If I have a failure, it's pretty far back and somewhat sheilded. If I get rear ended hard enough, the damage becomes even more expensive. If it doesn't seem to work, I'll move it.....someday. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif)

Tomorrow, I'm going to get some 10-24 hardware to fit the riv-nuts I have. Whoever put 10-24 in the kit and not 10-32 needs their butt kicked. I've got a box of 10-32 stainless screws from my aircraft days. None of it is 10-24, none..... Once I get bolts, I'll adel clamp the braided line in place and cut it and put the last end on it. I might actually have this thing hooked up and running soon.

It's coming along! Get a cage in that thing, do some HPDEs, do the comp school, and come run AI (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Ok, the radiator pressure warning light is in and wired. The Accusump is in, plumbed and wired. I wound up running the electric valve after all. I don't like it and once I put a fuel cell in the car and pull the tank, I'll move the accusump and switch to a manual valve. For now, it's better than nothing (I hope). Yes, I still have wires to loom up and tie out of harms way. I'll do that tomorrow.

We put a few placards in place so people will know what all the pretty lights are for. We got a bit creative with one or two of them. I guess we shouldn't make labels while tired from working in the garage.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

The switch over the shift light is the manual control for the accusump. It's only hot with the key on, but you can manually turn it off if needed/wanted.

This thing is a wiring catastrophe. I've got to just rip everything out and tear it all down and start over. I've been having really bad thoughts of just putting a carb on it. I want to stay EFI, but a carb, an MSD distributor and a 6AL box will go a long way towards making my life really easy on the installation front. I'm not sure that I can bring myself to do it, but it's getting more and more tempting. Is that bad?

Two things:
1.) Sleep is over rated, and you can do it when you get old.

2.) I vote for the carb and the MSD, but I like it old school....... and it's WAAAAAAAAY cheaper........ did I mention it's cheaper?

Well, you can always use MegaSquirt.

Why is there still a back seat bracket in the car?

i used a putty knike and a hammer to peal out the bulk of that seam filler. lateri rigged up a "blade"in an air hammer w/ the pressure turned way down (20 PSI?). then i went in w/ the wire wheel.

the next car gets acid dipped.

just buy a painless harness. it wouldnt cost more than a carb and an MSD.
there is no way i'll ever go back to a carb.

This post has been edited by Glenn98ZM6: Aug 2 2007, 12:27 PM

There is just one, I haven't had time to get that one out yet. The spare tire bracket is gone, but I haven't pulled the seat bracket on the one side yet. I'm getting there. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)



I'm just blasting the sealer out with the wire wheel. It cleans to the shine.

The problem with a painless harness is that I still have a stock computer and I don't think it will run the engine combo that I'm thinking of running after this one (and maybe not the upgrade I'm going to do to this one). I could do a FAST system or similar, but that's a quick $2,000 or so. That's why I'm back to considering a carb.... I hate them, but they are easy. Wire an ignition box, fuel pump and set the timing. That would leave me a Holley Stealth Ram, 52mm throttle body, 24 lb injectors (SVO I think), MSD "dual connector" distributor and some other goodies to sell off to pay for the carb parts. It's still not my first choice....

So you will have an issue with the computer's tune? Or is it a connector interface?

Painless has a lot of pertubations ... Call them and tell them your combo.

I don't think the stock TPI computer can be set up to run a 240/250-ish duration cam. And, I could wind up with something "evil" in the future, possibly sooner than later. So, I'd like to only do this once and when I get the computer/wiring done, I want to do it one time and be done with it, I don't want to be upgrading computers later.

You'll probably end up needing to change the carb anyway (which isn't exactly cheap either) if you go off the deep end with the engine... and you will.

Have you hung out at the Prom Tuning board at thirdgen.org? A lot of stuff has been done with the stock ECM. One trick for the stock computers with big cams is to run the computer in open loop for idle and low speed stuff. Closed loop won’t work when the valve overlap is sending fuel right out the exhaust. The O2 thinks the engine is running richer than it actually is, so it takes fuel out.

Running the stock ECM will probably work, but might just take more time to get right.

x2 When I convert to FI Im megasquirtin'

I'll sell carb A to finance carb B..... That will still make it less expensive as a whole (unfortunately).