 First post to say hello... |
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 Jul 7 2008, 05:46 PM
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#21
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Member  Group: Advanced Members Posts: 222 Joined: 5-July 08 From: Virginia Beach Member No.: 2,237  |
Man you guys are a riot.... The hair scrunchy tip is the kind of stuff I like to hear. You guys drive these things enough and start to find problems then come up with very "grassmotorsports" ways to solve them. My kind of crowd...
Again thanks everyone... Hopefully I will have some knowledge to pass on in the near future. |
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Jul 7 2008, 06:04 PM
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#22
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North of the border Group: Admin Posts: 2,307 Joined: 4-February 04 From: Montreal, CANADA Member No.: 177 |
welcome aboard... the crowd is great... hope you love it (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Also, surprised no one mentioned that stock shocks suck... lol |
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Jul 7 2008, 08:05 PM
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#23
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 16-January 04 From: Chandler AZ Member No.: 130 |
QUOTE (sgarnett @ Jul 7 2008, 07:27 AM)  As mentioned, the PS fluid (and sometimes the brake fluid) will weep a little around the cap at high temp. The "scrunchy mod" will help contain the drips. Raid your significant other's stash of hair scrunchies (the fluffy elastic pony tail holders), and place them around the filler necks. BTW, it's common for LS1s to use some oil (even new), and they don't do a great job of keeping the oil where it belongs in the turns. A lot goes through the PCV system, but blowby can also be an issue with the low-tension rings. The factory capacity spec is 5.5 quarts, including the filter. I normally use 6 quarts for a routine oil change, and (per the past advice of others here) ran 6.5 quarts for a recent HPDE (which puts the level between "T" and "G" in "operating" on the dipstick. The factory oil spec is 10W-30. I've been running Redline 10W-40 for a long time because it reduced my oil consumption. While I was prepping for the track, my local sponsor was out of 10W-40 so I tried the Redline 5W-40. It sat in the cab of my truck in the sun for a few hours before use, and it poured in "like water". I was a bit concerned, but I checked the specs and at 100C it's actually slightly thicker than the 10W-40. On the whole trip of almost 500 highway miles pulling a large, heavy, enclosed tire/tool trailer and enough track time to burn around 20 gallons of fuel, I only used about 3/4 quart, which was less than I expected. The highly scientific oil analysis lab in my nose also suspects that blowby may have been reduced too, compared to the 10W-40. Time will tell, but so far so good. I thought the factory oil spec was 5w-30? That's what is called for in my 99Z and 01HD. I would concur that a thicker weight should be run in competition situations though. IIRC Bondurant runs 15w-50 in their school cars after several engine failures using the 5w-30. Whatever weight oil you run, the 6.5 (or a whole 7) is very cheap insurance for the lower end. And yes, replacing the shocks should move very high on your list of upgrades. Most here run Koni's or Bilstein's in various configurations. |
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Jul 7 2008, 08:37 PM
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#24
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CMCer Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 |
Just trying to not overwhelm! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Jul 7 2008, 10:12 PM
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#25
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 689 Joined: 8-May 06 From: Charlotte, NC Member No.: 1,201 |
QUOTE (Rob Hood @ Jul 7 2008, 01:05 PM) Whatever weight oil you run, the 6.5 (or a whole 7) is very cheap insurance for the lower end. Or run an oil baffle from the site sponsor........... test results comming soon... |
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Jul 7 2008, 11:36 PM
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#26
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 16-January 04 From: Chandler AZ Member No.: 130 |
QUOTE (roadracetransam @ Jul 7 2008, 03:12 PM) QUOTE (Rob Hood @ Jul 7 2008, 01:05 PM) Whatever weight oil you run, the 6.5 (or a whole 7) is very cheap insurance for the lower end. Or run an oil baffle from the site sponsor........... test results comming soon... True and please post ASAP! |
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Jul 7 2008, 11:52 PM
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#27
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Seeking round tuits Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 |
Well, I think the first post mentioned leaving the car stock for the first outing, so most of the tips have been in that spirit.
However, Eugenio is right, the stock shocks suck. After the first outing you will probably want to upgrade the shocks and swaybars soon. My point regarding the Redline, is that there's more to it than just the viscosity grade. Some grades within the same product line may be better than others due to base stock differences, not just thicker or thinner. Within the Mobil One product line, the 0W-40 grade is reputed to be very good, while other grades are not. |
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Jul 8 2008, 12:04 AM
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#28
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
And the front sway bar (35mm Suspension Techniques) can usually be had for under $150 and will greatly improve front tire wear by limiting body roll and camber loss. It's a cheap mod with real benefits. That's the only reason I suggested it.
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Jul 8 2008, 12:36 AM
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#29
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 919 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Northern NY Member No.: 66 |
Comon guys keep it simple SEAT TIME, SEAT TIME and more seat time. Then work on the mods. Never thought I'd say that. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/222val.gif)
Kyle welcome aboard. Were all tight group of friends here. Ask a question and get an answer without all the BS. Hang around a bit you'll figure out what you need and not need. John |
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Jul 8 2008, 01:33 AM
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#30
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Seeking round tuits Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 |
QUOTE (Ojustracing @ Jul 7 2008, 08:36 PM) Comon guys keep it simple SEAT TIME, SEAT TIME and more seat time. Then work on the mods. Yeah, but he's not new to road racing. Besides, even if he was a novice, I think the time honored mantra needs a bit of tweaking: 1) Basics for safety and reliability 2) Seat time 3) Go fast goodies There's certainly nothing major mentioned in this thread. Most of it is just the basics to help the car survive. The alignment will greatly improve the tire wear, which quickly pays for itself. The same could be said for swaybars. I'll even argue for a further subdivision: 1) Basics for safety and reliability - fluids, pads, alignment 2) Initial seat time to set the hook 3) Basics to improve tire wear and predictable handling - swaybars and shocks 4) Lots and lots of seat time 5) Go fast goodies I really don't think sending a novice out to take their chances in a car lacking even basic prep is such a good idea. |
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Jul 8 2008, 09:16 AM
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#31
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
QUOTE (sgarnett @ Jul 6 2008, 06:26 PM) QUOTE (Spruill242 @ Jul 6 2008, 04:54 PM) I did look into the allignment sticky. So I take it this can all be done on a stock vehicle ( ie- no camber caster plates) Camber plates are not applicable to the 4th gen front suspension (SLA).Stock, you won't be able to get enough camber. You can elongate the holes in the Kmember for the camber bolts - extend the slot about 3/16" outward and you can get about -2 camber. Check the rule book for any class you think the car might end up in before doing this, tho. |
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Jul 12 2008, 03:11 PM
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#32
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 222 Joined: 5-July 08 From: Virginia Beach Member No.: 2,237 |
Yeah I'm no newbie to road racing, just F-bodies. I've got some LCBs coming in so I can get a better feel of how good/bad this suspension is stock. It's hard to feel when you can't tell if it's chassis flex or not. As far as classing, I'm not worried about that,the volvo is the "real" racecar. I really don't like autox/orange cone avoidance, so it'll be strictly road course duty.
So I've done the "basics" for my driving level, pads, rotors, shocks, braces, tires. We shall see how this goes.I'm really excited and ready to let 'er rip... Thanks everyone for your input and advice. I'll be sure to get pics and let you guys know how the event at VIR goes. This post has been edited by Spruill242: Jul 12 2008, 03:14 PM |
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