Sounds very promising...glad to hear this problem is on the way to solution.

I hope you arent planning to drive that thing on the street much. My stock air dam on my 4th gen catches on everything it seems. Might take some new trailer loading and unloading techniques as well.....

Bock (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Yea, trailer loading might be an interesting problem. However, it's mounted to the stock air dam and can still flex because of that mounting arrangement.

It only drug twice last night, and neither was much to be concerned about.... We'll see.

10 bucks says it will scrape on the oval to asphalt transition at Nashville....

Have fun

Bock

Self-clearancing, dual function front air dam. Just another outstanding Trackbird Engineering product. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Very Cool. You might need to switch to studded snow tires for the winter, that looks like it will push alot of snow.....

How did the car feel at speed? I'm wondering if it may have front end lift at RR speed.....

I fully expect that. If it grinds a bit of clearance and still cools, I'm ok with it. I expected that it would eventually make its own ride height, all I have to do is drive it.




Um, uh, yea....lift doesn't seem like it's going to be a problem with this setup (and it didn't blow off of the car during our travels). (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

cool..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Stuffed a high flow thermostat in it tonight. It runs 160-180 in town (35 mph) and cools to 160 as soon as I get moving. The oil came up to 180 instead of laying on the pin (that was coming out of the pan, not after the cooler) so I think I can get the oil temps working decent on track or with autocross abuse. We'll see what this does. First it wouldn't cool, now it cools too well. I can live with that, but I might need a 180 thermostat. We'll try the 160 first.....

Hope so those your cooling problems SOLVED at Mid Ohio.

I swapped the car to antifreeze and water before the last autocross event. It now seems to creep up to 200 or 210 degrees on course where it didn't do that on water/water wetter. That's with a thermostat in the car, but if I have to I can always remove it for a track day if needed.

Antifreeze doesn't have as much cooling ability as straight water. We always ran water and water wetter with only enough antifreeze to keep the water from freezing during the winter.

I was thinking that was the case, but I'm still wondering why I'm running anything approaching warm with the cooling setup I have in the car. I'd expect it to lay on the pin, no matter what was in it (as long as it's not straight anti freeze). Even so, I think it will be fine and I'll flush it again next year and go back to water.

I give you an old hot rod trick for coolant. use swiming pool water mixed with antifreeze. Also DO NOT buy that 50/50 antifreeze junk, but the full strength stuff and mix it down yourself. The "swimming pool water" is chemically treated water and will aid in picking up and disapating heat from the heads. Just kind of like how soap makes water wetter, so does the chemicals treating swimming pool water. It is generally good for reducing temps 10* over tap water.

Also, I just brushed over this thread for the first time. I wanted to comment on the old posts about the 5th page relating to camber. First as most everyone knows, its the tire that dictates the camber. A tire such as Toyo RA1's wants about -3* om anything. It depends on the tire brand and style. As for getting more cneg camber? *a little trick is to elther have the bolt holes on the spindles and struts slightly over drilled and offset drilled allowing the top inside of the wheel to be closer to the strut thus gaining neg camber BEFORE and strut mount adjustments are made. THere is a 3rd gen caster kit someone sells also that includes cam lobed bolts that do this very same offset. *another simple knowledge trick is in essence the lower the car the shorter the strut distance and the greater the angle to the sturt mount that can be achevied in both neg camber and pos caster settings.

This post has been edited by V6RSR: Dec 12 2007, 04:28 AM

Ahh, here we are 7+ months later...

It appears that it's getting to be time to make this thing legal for "something". So, there will be posts showing more progress in the near future. I'm working out the details of getting a Blaine Fabrication roll cage kit shipped most of the way across the country so we can make it safer. I'm shopping for fuel cells, fuel pumps, braided lines and the rest of a fuel system. I'm looking for race seats and I think it's getting to be time to get moving on this thing.

Right now it needs:

Cage
Fuel cell
Fuel system
Race seat
Radiator removed and cleaned by a shop (non distilled water causes calcium to clog things a bit, I knew better but was in a hurry).

It will likely also get (budget and time permitting):

Mini starter
MSD ignition
Camshaft change
Starter switch/panel
More wiring removed
Aftermarket steering column
Lift off 'glass hood
Paint?


More to come (see, I told you guys to buy this thing (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ).

Win the lottery?

Nope. Just a broke guy "goin' racin'". Just like everyone else...

A broke guy with a renewed focus on doing something with this car. I can't seem to sell it for anywhere near what it's worth (my asking price was about 50% of what's invested in the car) and I can't race it as is. So, I guess it's back to Ramen noodles for a while. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Sadly, I could have probably finished this thing for what I've spent on chicken wings and beer in the last few months of being single and trying to keep myself entertained. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

Cage kit order has been placed with Alan for a full cage and drivers NASCAR door bars.

One down, thousands to go...

Schweet! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Simplicity,
here is all the switches you will ever need.... placement is due to missing dash, plus I always wanted switches up top, like in a airplane. "ready for take off"
(IMG:http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/2576000-2576999/2576890_121_full.jpg)

This post has been edited by roadracetransam: Jul 23 2008, 11:48 PM

guess I know what I'm doing this winter....... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

And some fab work.

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)