You guys all know the car by now. I REALLY want rid of this thing. I might consider trades for a fun street car (Supercharged Miata, C4 Corvette, who knows) or preferably cash. Somebody has to be looking for a car like this. I don't think I want to part it out, though I'm considering the option.

Ok. I have a 1992 Camaro Z28 (there's a 21 page thread here: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9864 ). I have about a million dollars in this thing. I am looking to sell it complete if possible.

The cage was built from parts from Alan Blaine and the car should be quite stout (dual nascar door bars). The seat was bought new for the car and it has an Alan Blaine lexan rear spoiler.

The basics on the car are:

1992 Camaro Z28 (car was built from an amazingly rust free shell, factory 5.7 hardtop chassis)
T56 transmission (LT1)
Centerforce dual friction clutch (1,200 miles on it)
3.73 rear gears
Lingenfelter 3.5" aluminum driveshaft
Eaton posi
Moser axles
Aluminum rear support cover
Factory rear disk brake axle (all new guts)
Spohn T56 conversion torque arm (attached to the crossmember and not the trans) and crossmember (with front driveshaft loop).
Ripper shifter w/hurst knob
Full cage
17" wide Kirkey full containment race seat
Grant steering wheel with quick release
All autometer Ultra-Lite gauges (10k tach, 200 mph speedo, fuel level, volt meter, oil pressure, oil temp (set for before and after cooler temps, after cooler temps aren't hooked up yet), water temp, second oil temp gauge (for trans/rear end, rear end isn't hooked up yet), MSD shift light, 2 autometer pro lights (low oil pressure at 30 psi and low water temp in case of a radiator hose failure, etc). Gauges have about 15 minutes of run time on them
Wideband O2 sensor (PLX technologies M300 mounted in the dash)
Techrods engine wiring harness
Brake lights work (all of them)
Afco custom radiator with internal oil cooler
3000 cfm electric fan with thermostat (Black Magic extreme, I think)
Moroso remote oil filter
Baker Precision power steering cooler
Ground control front and rear weight jacks (1000 in lb front springs, 225 in lb rear springs)
35mm Suspension Techniques front sway bar (I have a 36mm hollow factory bar too)
Energy suspension front control arm bushings
22mm hollow Hellwig adjustable rear bar
Koni SA shocks on all corners
C4HD brake kit front/factory disk rear
Unbalanced engineering kit to lower the rear PHB
Hotpart.com swedged chromoly PHB (with good heim joints)
Hotpart.com aluminum rear LCA's with (good heim joints)
Hotpart.com camber plates
Odyssey PC680 MJT battery with post adapters in their aluminum mount
Remote master switch (250 amp solenoid)
Alternator disconnect (250 amp solenoid - alternator can't backfeed and keep car running)
Remote starter solenoid in rear of car (no hot 4 ga cable during normal operation)
Waterproof alternator breaker in the rear (100 amp)
Waterproof master power breaker in the rear
60 amp fuse on feed line to the front electric cooling fan (for short circuit protection)
New Harwood lexan windshield (not installed, but fitted)
SLP 1 3/4" stainless shorty headers
"Shorty" exhaust (headers to a dump at the rear axle) with magnaflow race muffler
Harwood fiberglass lift off hood
Adjustable 7.5" road race rear spoiler
8 IROC factory wheels and two rear cross lace rear TA wheels

Engine:

1995 (as I remember) 350 block
Milodon splayed main caps/GMPP billet front cap
ARP main studs
Factory forged GM crank (zz3 crate motor/Corvette crank)
Lunati Street race rods
KB 12cc dished pistons (with the fel pro head gasket, 10.49:1 compression)
Speed Pro file fit plasma moly rings
Clevite bearings
Melling M55HV oil pump (the good one, not the new version)
Milodon heavy duty oil pump driveshaft
Comp cams billet roller timing set (or Cloyes, I forget)
Comp cams roller cam
Comp pushrods
Comp Pro Magnum chromoly roller rockers
ZZ3/ZZ4 aluminum heads with Manley Race Flo valves
K-motion valve springs (130 on seat/380 open)
Comp locks and retainers
Moroso valve covers
Holley Stealth Ram intake
24 lb/hr injectors
52mm Edelbrock/BBK throttle body
ATI 2 ring aluminum Superdamper (virtually no run time since it was installed)
Billet adjustable timing pointer
MSD "small cap" HEI distributor (computer controlled) 15 minutes of run time on it
MSD 6AL
Underdrive pulleys
AC and smog pump delete pulleys
Edelbrock aluminum water pump
TPIS oil pan
MSD mini starter
MSD blaster 3 coil
MSD plug wires

Block was line bored, torque plate honed, has deck plugs installed in the large core holes in the deck, "0 decked", balanced, heads were skim cut to verify they were flat, valve job and springs were set up by the shop, all fel pro gaskets.

I'm sure I'm forgetting to list some stuff.

Engine is roughly 380 hp at the flywheel

Edit: I'm keeping the engine and lowering the price.

Buy it and go AI racing (just add a dashboard).

It needs the lexan bolted into the car or a factory windshield installed. It's running, driving and ready to go with the addition of the windshield and fresh seat belts. There's about 1,200 miles on the engine, trans, rear, the rest of the stuff was added in the current build while doing the cage and are basically new parts (dash, gauges, MSD parts, accusump, etc). This car is basically a new build. I just finished it and decided that it's time to get out of debt (sell the car instead of spending money racing the car). I don't see me racing this car anytime soon (I got it fired up and stuffed it in storage for now). It's built with the best of about everything and someone should enjoy it. I'd really rather have a fun street car these days or an economy beater (and the cash).


$12,000

Got any pics?

Sorry, fixed the link in the first post. More information (and pics) than you could ever want about this car is located here (the journey starts with a street car and goes through everything):

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9864

$11,900

hmmm that 100$ drop makes this really tempting... how much gas is in the tank?

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

$14 gallons. But if I take another $100 off, I'm keeping the gas. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/brick.gif) Or, I'm going to put the whole thing on Craigslist for $1 and just make it go away. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/loco.gif)

And just for Stan.

$11899

If I take another $50 off, I'm keeping the brake fluid too! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

For the current price, I'll even toss in a few bottles of octane booster...because everybody needs red spark plugs. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

oh man stop teasing me!

$11,800

$11,500

And I'll even leave most of the air in the tires....

$11000

$8900 without the engine and MSD (I'm keeping the engine and ignition parts). Still wired for EFI, includes computer, dash, gauges, clutch, T56, seat, suspension, radiator, PS cooler, headers and exhaust, etc. Throw a small block in it and go.

Why did you use shorties in this build originally, was it sitting so low that long tube collectors would've bottomed out on every compression/curbing, or was it due to other engine compartment clearance considerations?

Honestly, they came with the car. And since we already had the engine in it and lots of other work to do, I just left them. Ultimately I was trying not to make anymore HP to stay legal for AI and it looked like I would easily make my HP goals without the headaches of long tubes. And a single exhaust is lighter than duals or two mufflers, etc.

Gotcha.

I did not realise that the AI rules were that restrictive on power. (I thought that was CMC's job only! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) )

Yes, and given the same materials (304/409/aluminized/mild steel) the shorties themselves, and the pipes from them would be lighter than longtubes as well.

It's 9 lbs/hp and 9.5 lbs/ft lb (or I have that swapped). The engine "as is" makes about 375-380 hp, give or take. I wasn't sure what the car was going to weigh and knew I could be close. So, they stayed on the car. And they sure fit better than long tubes and make working on it much better.