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> lowered chin deflector, braced with pics
Chris Ronson Jr
post Sep 26 2011, 10:31 PM
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Quick bump..


Is a bottom breathing-stock LS1 radiator even capable of cooling 500 rwhp on a hot HPDE day (90+*F), what about a not hot day (sub 90)? I also don't drive like your average HPDE'r since I've been racing a while (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

I had the heater blasting on high and water temps were getting to 240+ but would cool down relatively quickly if I back off (I wasn't pushing that hard to begin with)
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Steve91T
post Sep 27 2011, 12:14 PM
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QUOTE (Chris Ronson Jr @ Sep 26 2011, 06:31 PM) *
Quick bump..


Is a bottom breathing-stock LS1 radiator even capable of cooling 500 rwhp on a hot HPDE day (90+*F), what about a not hot day (sub 90)? I also don't drive like your average HPDE'r since I've been racing a while (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

I had the heater blasting on high and water temps were getting to 240+ but would cool down relatively quickly if I back off (I wasn't pushing that hard to begin with)



I've got a 430 crank hp LT1 with the original radiator and it does a great job for me. Last month it was 90 with direct sunlight on the track and the water temps were steady at 190. Oil temps were 250 ish. I was running it hard in the advanced group, but shifting at about 5500 - 6000 RPM, which I'm sure helped.

I'm a stock bottom breather, but I have a larger chin deflector.

Steve
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Chris Ronson Jr
post Sep 27 2011, 02:52 PM
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QUOTE (Steve91T @ Sep 27 2011, 05:14 AM) *
QUOTE (Chris Ronson Jr @ Sep 26 2011, 06:31 PM) *
Quick bump..


Is a bottom breathing-stock LS1 radiator even capable of cooling 500 rwhp on a hot HPDE day (90+*F), what about a not hot day (sub 90)? I also don't drive like your average HPDE'r since I've been racing a while (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

I had the heater blasting on high and water temps were getting to 240+ but would cool down relatively quickly if I back off (I wasn't pushing that hard to begin with)



I've got a 430 crank hp LT1 with the original radiator and it does a great job for me. Last month it was 90 with direct sunlight on the track and the water temps were steady at 190. Oil temps were 250 ish. I was running it hard in the advanced group, but shifting at about 5500 - 6000 RPM, which I'm sure helped.

I'm a stock bottom breather, but I have a larger chin deflector.

Steve


Thanks Steve, can you post a pic of yours too please?
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Steve91T
post Sep 27 2011, 06:48 PM
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Here you go.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/2011-09-22_18-24-09_230.jpg)
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Blainefab
post Sep 27 2011, 07:07 PM
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QUOTE (Chris Ronson Jr @ Sep 26 2011, 03:31 PM) *
Quick bump..


Is a bottom breathing-stock LS1 radiator even capable of cooling 500 rwhp on a hot HPDE day (90+*F), what about a not hot day (sub 90)? I also don't drive like your average HPDE'r since I've been racing a while (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

I had the heater blasting on high and water temps were getting to 240+ but would cool down relatively quickly if I back off (I wasn't pushing that hard to begin with)


There's a bunch of little things that will help, but you've still got 10yr old parts with an unknown amount of corrosion/fine debris that will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system.

Replace coolant mix with DI water/Water Wetter

pop off the top cap and clean out any debris collected between radiator and AC condensor

blow out the radiator/condensor with compressed air - back to front seems most effective

Seal the gaps in the shrouding forward of the radiator

extend the deflector downward an inch or so - wider is better too

My C5 wouldn't turn the fans on till 235 unless AC was on, so on a hot day I'd run the AC on grid, keeping the fans on and coolant at about 205 IIRC. As I headed out on track I'd turn AC and TC off.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Sep 29 2011, 07:27 AM
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Chris Ronson Jr
post Sep 28 2011, 11:02 PM
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Thanks Steve! Did you make that piece and add it on, or is this the RK Sport extended piece? (do they even still make that, was it ever a decent option, or is making your own the best option?) If you made it what material did you use? Or just the same as what others used?

QUOTE (Blainefab @ Sep 27 2011, 12:07 PM) *
There's a bunch of little things that will help, but you've still got 10yr old parts with an unknown amount of corrosion/fine debris that will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system.

Replace coolant mix with DI water/Water Wetter

pop off the top cap and clean out any debris collected between radiator and AC condensor

blow out the radiator/condensor with compressed air - back to front seem most effective

Seal the gaps in the shrouding forward of the radiator

extend the deflector downward an inch or so - wider is better too

My C5 wouldn't turn the fans on till 235 unless AC was on, so on a hot day I'd run the AC on grid, keeping the fans on and coolant at about 205 IIRC. As I headed out on track I'd turn AC and TC off.


Thanks Alan: radiator has been flushed with the new motor going in and then again prior to the weekend for distilled water/water wetter and radiator and condensor have been blown out. I guess the next step is sealing the gaps and extending the deflector. Has anyone found a difference between lower 1" vs lower 2" and so on? Or is 1" really all one needs to keep a high powered bottom breather fed?



I miss the Corvette (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

This post has been edited by Chris Ronson Jr: Sep 28 2011, 11:03 PM
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Blainefab
post Sep 29 2011, 07:34 AM
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QUOTE (Chris Ronson Jr @ Sep 28 2011, 04:02 PM) *
Has anyone found a difference between lower 1" vs lower 2" and so on? Or is 1" really all one needs to keep a high powered bottom breather fed?


I miss the Corvette (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Too low and it will drag - the OEM piece has a bit of forward rake from the angle of attachment - beat it up too often and it will bend rearwards, and then you need reinforcement, and then it is more prone to getting ripped off instead of flexing.

My SWAG is 1" lower, full width, is about right.
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Chris Ronson Jr
post Sep 30 2011, 01:26 AM
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Gotcha, thanks Alan (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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