Mine likely took 3 weeks or so...and I dropped them off at truechoice (about 8 miles from my house). I'd see if you could sell them to someone looking for "cores" (wanting to build something custom without cutting up brand new shocks) and just buy new. Rebuilding seems to result in spending nearly as much as new ones in many cases. But I haven't looked in a while.

I found a pair on E bay for $499, what ya think? Or buy one new from Summit for $386?

I still want to know how it broke like that.

I sent a NASTY message on Facebook to Koni and Alan was right about it unbolting from the top. When I called Koni North America the tech guy Mason didnt know that....WTF?

The guy from FB is gonna call me back in a few.

Alan I need that tool or need to borrow one and send it back.

BTW Strano is off the reservation till next Tuesday.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Mar 13 2013, 06:26 PM

Lee Grimes called me back, and he said when these shocks come back trashed he has them take the tops off and save them. He is sending me one free of charge.

How does the dust cover come off without damaging it Alan??

I will make the tool and fix it.

Lee Grimes @ Koni said it was most likely installed with the upper nut loose and it finally snatched it apart.

Do you know where to elongate the slots for more camber? I can try to get you a photo if I get home at a decent time in the next few days. Doing your own alignment is not a big deal after you do it a few times.
I think I made my Koni tool from an offset box wrench. Don't bother starting with a cheap wrench unless you want to waste your time. I tried cheap Harbor Freoght wrench and it was useless.
Not sure if any sponsors sell toe plates, but Ron at Discovery Parts has them.

What does the toe plate do? Anything a couple of straight edges taped to the wheels/tires wouldn't do?


The dust covers snap off, but not without a fight.

I got the cover off, the nut is encased in the steel that holds the dust cover on, Can I just grab and turn that?

How do you the nut exposed to take it off? Also how do you hold the shaft without marring it.

Was the wrench a 21mm? I will make mine out of a socket most likely.

Toe plates are plates you lay flush against the face of the tire to set toe with a two tape measures.

How do you set camber/caster at home?

Seems like for a hell of a lot less than $60, I can make something just as effective. That's why I'm asking.


So those hats and jam nuts, that's why I ended up trimming the hat off. It's a terrible design and is a real bitch to get to. I believe you have to hold the hat in a vise and then with your special tool, loosen the jam nut. A while ago, I had to replace a hat/shaft and I paid a machine shop $20 to take care of it. He put it in a vice and chiseled it off and then back on again. Buggered up the jam nut, but it still worked just fine.

Like I said, Koni told me the dust cover is the only reason that stupid hat is there. Cut the fucker off. If you really want a dust cover, I'm sure you can come up with a different way to secure it.


I took my time and doused the hat that I was cutting with water to keep it cool. Now if I need to remove the shaft, I can use a normal wrench.

Just a thought.

Lee is the goto guy at Koni, I couldn't remember his name.

Just pull down on the dust cover, might need a screwdriver to help, but should pop off without damage.

You can copy mine from the pic if you want. I don't have a loaner. Use an impact socket. it's 24mm, but 15/16" fits better.

There is a rubber grommet that you need to pick out (toss it) to expose the jam nut.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Mar 13 2013, 09:39 PM

You can make your own - cut slots at the same height for the tape measure to engage. The store bought ones have a kick out on the bottom so the contact bulge doesn't keep the plate from laying flat on the tire or rim.

Use the flange on the camber bolt/nut heads as a guide - grind the slots outward till the flange is flush with the outer edge of the Kmember stamping. It will be about 3/16" of extension of the slots.

Camber and Caster bolts all the way out, set toe for 1/16" out will put you in the ballpark for the track. TQ nuts to 90#ft.

To get it to track dead straight on the freeway with the wheel centered, bring it to a shop for a spec alignment.

I have a Craftsman 12 point offset box end 15/16 wrench I will cut and try first.

I see the shaft doesnt go anywhere near all the way up into the shock, So just grab it as close up to the top as I can with whatever I can?

I need the dust cover, I wouldn't do away with it. Do whatever you can to keep the shaft clean as it will extend the life of the shock.

Will I have enough tie rod end to do the toe adjustment safely?

Will 1/16 toe out wear tires?

Don't touch the shaft, put the hat in a vise

The parts I've used have had enough threads - pull a tie rod end off and measure the thread length to be sure.

Yes, toe out will wear tires and can cause tramlining.

edit - added 'end' to tie rod

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Mar 20 2013, 06:27 AM

Alan, you are the man.

My cut 15/16 wrench worked ok, I had to use a long punch to break it loose but it worked.

Thinking about when this happened.......... I was on track and entered turn 5(very hard left hander) at Barber and the car just snapped around and spun out(about 45-50 mph there). I was VERY confused as to why this happened as I did nothing different into that corner. I am ALWAYS seeing if I can crack the gas open sooner and sooner in every corner as it settles the car but it has never ever snapped around like that.

It was all normal then SNAP I was going around backwards.

I am all fixed and riding again, I replaced the strut top hat as the hole was elongated.

The strut was originally put on loose, the nut on the top was about 5-6 threads higher from where it is now.

Thanks for all the help guys.