I've decided to sell my 1991 Corvette M6. This is going to be a little long, but here's the scoop...(copied as I posted it on other forums, so this wasn't frrax specific):

I had a 1992 Z28 autocross car and I decided I wanted a street car. I pulled the engine out of the Z28 (approximately 1,200 miles on it since it was built) and bought a Corvette. I put a set of Trick Flow 175 heads on it and a TPIS Miniram II as well as a TPIS throttle body and did a complete teardown and refresh before putting it in the Corvette (rod/main bearings, had the crank polished, new cam bearings, all gaskets and seals, new heads, new intake, new throttle body). I bought a Canton road race pan for it, stainless works long tube headers and a Dewitt radiator and started putting it together. The transmission was converted to crash through and a Hurst shifter was installed. I also ordered all the weather stripping for it and changed some (the rest is in a box) as I had time. The heads, intake, clutch, flywheel and distributor have about 40 miles on them, the throttle body and injectors are less than that and I installed the Borla kit last weekend....it's brand new). I've paid for two proms from two reputable places and I've been working on cleaning up the tune and some driveablility issues and I'm finally tired of spending my time and money tuning it and not driving it. So...I'm listing it for sale. I have a pile of money in this car, I'm asking far less than I have in it and I'm not looking to go much lower on it. I don't have to get rid of it, but I think I'm going to go C6 shopping and send this to a good home. I'm selling the car and the collection of parts I have for it as a lot.

It's red with black leather and has 117 k miles on the chassis and a 6 speed with 3.45 gears (dual power seats, electronic climate controls).

I'll save time and just start a parts list:

350 bored .020 over with splayed main caps and two bolt studs (and a billet front bearing cap on the #1 main)
Forged crank (ZZ3 crank)
Lunati Street Race rods (5.7") with floating pins.
KB Signature Series 12cc dished pistons
Speed Pro plasma moly file fit rings
zero decked, torque plate honed and line bored.
Clevite bearings
Melling oil pump
Cloyes double roller chain
Comp cams 220/230 .510/.510 cam (114 lobe separation)
Comp roller lifters
Comp pushrods
Comp Cams chromoly 1.52 roller rockers (7/16" studs)
Moroso aluminum valve covers with a screw on cap TIG welded on
Trick flow 175 heads (10.49:1 counting decking, head gaskets and all)
ARP 7/16" rocker studs
ARP head bolts
ARP header studs
ARP oil pan, timing cover, etc bolts
ARP Pro series flywheel bolts
ARP harmonic balancer bolt
Jegs billet aluminum distributor hold down
TPIS Miniram II (1205 gasket)
Accell 36 lb/hr injectors
TPIS 58mm throttle body
Davis Unified ignition HEI distributor
MSD gear reduction starter
MSD plug wires
ATI lightweight aluminum Superdamper (3 ring, road race version with aluminum shell)
Aluminum adjustable timing pointer
Stainless works long tube headers (with air system removed and the holes TIG welded closed)
Cat delete pipe (bolt in using a band clamp on the front and the stock ball and socket rear flange)
Borla cat back (installed last weekend)
DeWitt 1.5" fabricated aluminum radiator
Hurst shifter (gearbox was converted to crash through)
Walboro 255 lph fuel pump (Racetronix kit)
Goodyear hoses
New power steering hoses and remanufactured pump
Alternator was replaced last month (reman from a parts store)
2 piece under drive pulley set
Edelbrock water pump
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Centerforce dual friction clutch
New 275/40-17 Sumitomo summer tires (40 miles on them)
4 total sets of sawblades (3 painted, one machined finish)
J55 brakes (on the car)
Spare J55 caliper brackets
Spare ECM
Spare drive axles (rear, aluminum)
4 U joints for the rear axles (still in boxes)
New U joints in the driveshaft
Non crash through shift shaft from the ZF gearbox
Brembo "Sport" brake pads (on the car, and a set new in the box)
Metal Master brake pads (in a box)
New strap kit for mounting the rear axle U joints (still in a box)
Z51/Z07 springs (not on the car yet)
Stock shortblock (that came from this car)
Dana 44 clutch rebuild kit (new in the box)
4 brand new Koni sport adjustable shocks (still in the box, purchased last week)
Monroe Sensatrac shocks (on the car, 40 miles on those...give them to a friend or something)
Hypertech chip (came with the car, included with this package)
Accell 36 lb injectors (a second older set also included)
A box of weather stripping (the stuff I haven't installed)
Both tops (tinted and body color)
JVC in dash DVD player with hands free/bluetooth and Rockford rear speakers (fronts are in a box, I never got time to install those)
Hurst shift knob
AC has been converted to R134 (but I was planning to change it back to R12).

I'm sure there's more and I'll go through the garage and update this. I'd rather find someone who wants to finish the tune and enjoy it instead of parting it out.

So, in a nutshell, if you like tuning these cars and want a car with a lot of nice stuff in it and a bonus shortblock as well as 4 sets of wheels....look me up.

Pics on request.

Located on the west side of Columbus, OH.

trackbird (at) gmail dot com

$11,750

I'm sure someone here won money now that you posted it for sale, it wasn't a matter of if... but when!

DIBS on the new C6 when you sell it!


You're like me when it comes to guns only you do it with cars. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)









(Ok that wasn't very nice)

I'll trade you for a 68 Chevy pickup - it's a kit...... some assembly required (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif)

Seriously though - I want to see you finish at least one project. I know you can......

I was going to suggest that somebody must have won the "when will he sell it" pool. I may just wind up parting it out if it doesn't sell (and I don't really think it will).



I'm that way with guns too (why do you think the Corvette sat this long?).




It's basically done. If I could sort the tuning. I mean, I've driven it but it's not completely civilized. Either wide open is right or everything else is... It really just needs the tuning finished, but I'm sick of it pissing me off and decided to let someone else (who likes tuning these) enjoy it. I don't care anymore. I mean, I was ordering shocks and such just last week, so I was planning to finish it (I wish I hadn't put $700 in Borla exhaust parts on it last weekend). When I had the laptop die on the datalog (that I didn't feel like logging anyway) I finally decided that I've had enough. I don't need the stress or headaches of wondering how much more money I'm going to dump in it without any real progress. When my wife said "I've never seen anything make you this unhappy", I decided it was likely time to sell it.

Kevin, shoot me a PM and I'll give you my new phone number. I've tuned MAF and MAP cars. I have 2 heavily modded TPI383 Thirdgens. Both run and drive like stock, Austin can vouch for my ability, heck he's auto crossed and driven my IROC. I too would like to see you finish and enjoy this car, and I'm 100% confident I can help or do the tune for you. Mail order chips for a combination like this will never work, they won't even get you in the ballpark IMO. I realize I'm stomping on reputable tuners toes there, but when it comes to tuning this OBD1 stuff you can't do it through the mail. Contact me, I will help.

P.S. I haven't made a major change to the tune in my IROC in years, and I haven't messed with the GTA in over a year as well. Once I get them "done" you won't have to mess with it ever again unless you make mechanical changes.

This post has been edited by 1meanZ: Jul 24 2014, 01:31 AM

Trackbird, please take him up on his offer. His cars run fantastic. Stock manors yet tons of power. If you aren't happy with the car after this, it won't be because of the tune.

I'm willing to rent a trailer to take it to South Bend if needed...
A wise Jedi Master once told me:
Finish it you must, enjoy it you will.

I didn't figure they'd get it exactly right. I've had mail order tunes before. My Camaro ran on a mail order tune that was pretty rich, but ran ok so we left it. I really figured TPIS could get it pretty close. They are/were selling that engine package I posted that's extremely similar to my motor. However, I'm running smaller intake runners on the heads and that seems to be leaning it out down low (I seem to have better cylinder filling down in the 1,200-2,500 rpm range than they did with the larger runners....despite similar flowbench numbers). And I'm fighting with timing tables and accelerator pump issues (and I'm not sure which setting is truly accelerator pump).

I'd like to finish it at this point, but I really am losing my ability to care. I wasn't kidding about making a good effort to finish. I put a Borla exhaust on it last weekend (it's seen 25 minutes of run time) and ordered Koni SA's from Sam Strano last week as well. The tires are brand new (40 miles) and I just changed out the injectors to 36 lb/hr Accel injectors (to try to keep the trip computer accurate) and bought a TPIS throttle body (several grand in parts in the last couple months). I've just had it with the tuning issues....

Kevin, you have a PM.

For the info of those following the thread. The "accelerator pump" mentioned will be in the "pump shot" tables. Well, typically that is the name assigned that table by the guy that writes the definition file you are using. I usually dial this in using a wide band O2 sensor.

It's no surprise that even TPIS can't get your tune right. These older Speed Density cars can not acommodate any variations in the combination like a MAF car can. It doesn't mean TPIS isn't good, it just means they don't have a tune for your exact combo, and no one no matter how good they are can mail order tune a custom engine to an OEM level of drivability. I always used to wonder how these mail order guys did it, and then I realized how many tuning hiccups most guys with street cars are willing to tolerate or put up with.

SD tuning does suck, I didn't have the patience for it either. I do think you should finish it, it should be fun as hell when it's done. The nice thing about imperfect toys is that you don't care if you cone mark it, get another rock chip, or drive it through a cloud of bugs. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif)

I'd take Bill and 1meanZ up on their offers, besides, think of all the work you'll have to do to part it out!

This post has been edited by nape: Jul 24 2014, 11:30 PM

Tune the damn thing, what do you have to lose? I too desperately want to see you finish a project-hence my jab earlier. If anything it will sell better perfectly tuned. I for one would be hesitant to buy a car with drive ability issues for fear the the "tune" is being blamed for some other problem. Note: this is strictly hypothetical as I would trust anything Kevin sells with the utmost confidence.

I've taken most of the summer off of the shooting sports and started throwing time and money at this project. I'm starting to wish I'd spent that time and money at the range.

Agreed, "tuning issues" are blamed for a lot of cracked heads and other mechanical issues.

Billy and I worked on it some last night and again, wide open is nearly perfect. The bottom end is a little lean. I added fuel down there (and moved a few settings from my TPIS chip as an experiment and it's leaner than it was down low). I really dislike dealing with tuning this thing...but it's still here for now. And right now I can take somebody for a wide open blast well past 100 mph to prove the driveline is solid (if they asked). I have some medium to light throttle issues and then I seem to get into power enrichment and things change directions (it's lean and has a bit of stumble, a touch more throttle and it launches like it's been rear ended and heads towards the rev limiter with haste). Maybe I need to lower the threshold for PE (but which one exactly, maybe the TPS side?) or there's still something I'm missing.

If it has a MAF sensor clean it. This car is SD I think.

Check your MAP for a good signal.

Check you IAT for accuracy.

Are your O2's single wire or 4 wire heated? If they are single wired where are they in the collector?

Good info

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/sd101

Good stuff in here

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&a....71778758,d.b2U

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Jul 27 2014, 11:16 PM

I think you need to get the closed loop / driving settings tuned first, and then work on WOT. If I remember correctly, the PE is a function of the base tuning and changing closed loop numbers will affect the WOT.

That's what I was trying to do. Unfortunately WOT accidentally works...it's the rest that's an issue. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Price reduced.

$11,500

It's worth much more in pieces, but I hate to start parting it out and dealing with shipping. This is likely the last price reduction. After that I'll likely part it out or it will sit in my garage for the next few years.