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#1
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 43 Joined: 17-July 04 Member No.: 409 ![]() |
Well, did my 2nd ls1 plug change...only took like 3 hrs this time! Man #8 can only be reached from underneath the car. And let me tell you....even after firing up for only 30 seconds, the cats get really hot! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
Oh well, hope the tr55s and taylor wires help my buddy out! |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 440 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 41 ![]() |
hehe.. that job sux
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#3
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
I think I'm getting about 2.5 hrs per change. And losing about 3/4 lb of skin (down from 1.5 lbs). It is actually easier on my friends car with Jet Hot headers on it. I can get them all from the top in about 20 minutes??? I was amazed.
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#4
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
You LS1 owners just plain suck. I myself am getting LT's just to make the plugs on my LT1 easier to change...rioooght (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) .
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#5
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Seeking round tuits ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 ![]() |
On my 2001, changing #8 from the bottom wasn't bad at all. It was #6 that was nearly impossible. I couldn't get the rearmost nut loose on the passenger side coil pack to get it out of the way, so I couldn't get to 6 from the top or bottom with any flesh left on the bones.
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#6
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
QUOTE (sgarnett @ Aug 1 2004, 08:13 PM) On my 2001, changing #8 from the bottom wasn't bad at all. It was #6 that was nearly impossible. I couldn't get the rearmost nut loose on the passenger side coil pack to get it out of the way, so I couldn't get to 6 from the top or bottom with any flesh left on the bones. That's where I lost it. Once I grabbed the wrench and my arm tensed up, my arm was too big to fit. I have a "bolt head" shaped mark on my arm. It is slowly fading, but it has been 3 months or so since I changed them. The bolt dug in when I loosened #6, I finally decided it was that plug or my arm. The arm lost. As for an LT1. I've got no interest in changing those. I started to help a friend do his and he decided to trade the car on an LS1. That made my life easier. However, his LS1 has EGR and that made changing his a real pain. Much worse than my 2002 was to do. |
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#7
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 ![]() |
I don't know, I didnt think my LT1 plugs were that bad...but then again I have no a/c, no heater, no a lot of stuff your street cars have. I was looking at my budy's SS with all the factory crap...THAT looked tough!
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#8
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 231 Joined: 9-January 04 From: N.E Ga. Member No.: 112 ![]() |
You folks just need to order my "Handy Dandy LS1 Plug Changing Tool"!
You can get this extraordinary labor saving device only from me,,,, for a limited time only,,,, for the amazingly low price of only 19.95$ in three easy installments!!!!!!!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) Seriously,,, I have made a special little LS1 tool that saves a bunch of time. The first time I changed plugs, it took me something like four hours or so. I did change plugs and wires and I did set the gaps on the plugs and put dielectric grease on everything. I also whittled up my "Little Tool" during that four hours. The driver's side is a breeze,,,, the passenger's middle two plugs are the son of a guns though. Just like ya'll say,, them two will put a hurtin on your forearm if ya ain't made up some kind of "tool".The front passengers ain't no problem and the back one isn't either as long as you do it from the bottom. I spent something like 45 mins. fiddling with it trying to get to it from the top. Jacked the car up and had it replaced in 10 mins., seriously,,, do the rear passenger from the bottom. The "tool" is a 3/8ths to 1/2 inch drive adapter {3/8ths male, 1/2 inch female} in which I welded a bolt into the female 1/2 inch end. The bolt is about 1.5-2 inches long and has a 7/8th head. I put the "tool" into the spark plug socket and use a boxed end/open end wrench to turn it,,,, bingo,,,,,,,,, plug changes in about an hour or less. And thats on a 2000 model with EGR Trackbird. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/thumbup.gif) No kidding, I dynoed my car Saturday and wanted new plugs in it. The dyno was three hours from my house and my factory tune was crap. Very rich, I was scared that if I installed the plugs and then drove over there,,, the new plugs would be in less than ideal shape for the dyno {fouled from the rich mixture}. I got to the shop, let it cool while talking to the shop owner and tuner {Jason from Texas Speed and Performance}. The car cooled for maybe 30mins at the most, the headers had time to cool somewhat but the block was still nasty hot. I started on the drivers side, got them done in no time. I then jacked the car up and started on the rear passenger spark plug. This is the first time I've changed plugs since the headers and I discovered the headers make it harder to do the rear plug. O-well, my left arm looks like i've been welding with out gloves or long sleeves{ever had flash burn?}. I shortly had that plug changed and sit the car on the ground. The front passengers was next,,, that was simple. Now on to the middle two passengers plugs. Pulled out the little widgit I made and presto-bingo,,,, all plugs changed in about an hour or less. Remember, this was on a hot engine that had only cooled for a short while. The last passenger plug was the pisser, it took me as long to change it as all seven of the others. Here is a picture of the lttle tool I made- (IMG:http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/296000-296999/296918_59.jpg) The "tool" is pretty easy to make. You might be able to get away without even having to weld it if you gring the bolt shank into a hex so you could press it into the 1/2 inch drive. |
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#9
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 166 Joined: 25-December 03 From: nYc Member No.: 39 ![]() |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Aug 1 2004, 09:49 PM) I have a "bolt head" shaped mark on my arm. It is slowly fading, but it has been 3 months or so since I changed them. Heh, I've got one of those, too! Actually, I burned my flesh, so I have a permanent mark of a metric stud and its nut from changing an oil on a Corolla! |
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#10
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
LT1's aren't that bad, but you LS1 guys shouldn't be whining that much. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Actually it's the wire routing on LT1's that I hate. Running larger than stock 8mm wires behind the power steering pump was a pain.
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#11
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 827 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Bellevue WA Member No.: 73 ![]() |
1/2 hour, all from the top, beat that (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
It does help having the coils relocated though (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) . And a set of "skinney bitch arms" as some of the other local Fbody guys say when they see me doing it. |
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