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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
Well, we are heading full boat into the resurection of the Camaro in ITE. On order, being built, or currently being fabbed in are a new Speedway Engineering full floating 9" rear, NASCAR Tex 101A transmission and LS7 powerplant.
We have started with the rear, and have fabbed it into the car as of this weekend with a Unbalanced Engineering torque arm attached to it. I can say it is a TIGHT SQUEEZE! Man that housing is big! We had to dent up the gas tank to allow for the diff movement and new torque arm mounts on it! The diff should get all welded up this week and the major fab work done on the rear....I will get some pics soon. The NASCAR parts from OvalSpeed on eBay...basically Tilton magnesium bellhousing, Tilton T/O bearing, Tex 101A, trans cooler etc....should be in this next week, and the motor in early January. Pics to follow of the build. Here is a little tidbit from the last race: (IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2781/4200093975_50580bc12f_b.jpg) YIKES!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) The last weekend of the car the starter jammed into the flexplate and we got it unjammed but the starter was done....push started the car for 2 races. Well, looky at the ring gear knocked COMPLETELY off the flexplate! Just sitting loose in there! I am so lucky that that thing didn't hit the flexplate spinning at 7000 RPM!!!!! KERPOW!!!!! THAT would have been "bad"! |
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#2
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Rennmeister ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 781 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Mehlingen, Germany Member No.: 26 ![]() |
Ouch on the ring gear
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 16-January 04 From: Chandler AZ Member No.: 130 ![]() |
Keep the updates coming...nice upgrades!
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#4
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Grumpy ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 ![]() |
Keep the pic's coming Randy! Build that ls7 very well bud, i haven't seen one last very long with monthly track abuse! Weather they be a stock or built motor. I never went over and ask what let go each time, but it wasn't good.
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#5
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CMCer ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 ![]() |
Wow! Tres kewl Randy! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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#6
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
OK....some pics of the Speedway Engineering Full Floater:
mmmmm....brackets.... (IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2639/4216929325_f261a4d211.jpg) The Mark Williams aluminum center section is SO big, we had to cut the housing to fit it in! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4217696600_ac42d25b75.jpg) Other side showing brake brackets: (IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4216930595_fc10a4a5ae.jpg) Back end of Unbalance Engineering Torque Arm modified to attach to the HUGE 9" housing: (IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2728/4217698870_f026d776df.jpg) |
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#7
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
The new Tilton Magnesium Bell Housing:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4217720188_a47d9560fd.jpg) Is a VERY clean, almost new looking, bell and TO from a NASCAR team that would cost $1600+ new.....got it for $325 from a guy on eBay! Bell from the interior: (IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2693/4216953963_418cbdf048.jpg) Tilton T/O bearing with Quartermaster T/O bearing and piston for QM clutch: (IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4216954687_b1c7b2e950.jpg) |
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#8
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Mullet club chairman ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 786 Joined: 25-March 06 From: South Bend IN Member No.: 1,135 ![]() |
Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal.
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#9
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,766 Joined: 10-April 04 From: New Orleans, LA Member No.: 303 ![]() |
A NASCAR team was using an LS7? Or will other bellhousings fit? Interested to know what will fit on an LS1, not that I'm buying anything soon.
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#10
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
A NASCAR team was using an LS7? Or will other bellhousings fit? Interested to know what will fit on an LS1, not that I'm buying anything soon. No, the bell fits an LS7 bolt pattern--not a LS7 NASCAR motor. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif) I am no LS motor expert, but I think all the LS motors have the same rear bolt pattern. |
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#11
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Nice looking stuff, Randy! Remember I owe you powder coating on the beam and slider.
I'm a bit concerned about that new rear leg seeing bending loads, both accel and decel, thinking a gusset behind it back to one or both of the pumpkin mounts would be wise. (IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2728/4217698870_f026d776df.jpg) |
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#12
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Member Posts: 2,688 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Ft Worth, TX Member No.: 8 ![]() |
are those lines backwards on the slave? shouldnt the pressure from the master come into the side and the bleeder come from the top?
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#13
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/stupid.gif) Randy, you're a badass. Tell us about your LS7. |
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#14
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
Nice looking stuff, Randy! Remember I owe you powder coating on the beam and slider. I'm a bit concerned about that new rear leg seeing bending loads, both accel and decel, thinking a gusset behind it back to one or both of the pumpkin mounts would be wise. (IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2728/4217698870_f026d776df.jpg) Got ya on the concerns Alan! I wish I had taken some pics before we took it all apart!!! We are taking it to a shop to check for bending of the housing from all the welding tomorrow, and we will throw it back up there and see if there is some additional bracing we can add. |
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#15
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
are those lines backwards on the slave? shouldnt the pressure from the master come into the side and the bleeder come from the top? No, the top IS the bleed, and it goes out the side of the bell and down to below it for easy bleeding. The side IS the pressure and goes out the top closer to the clutch master. |
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#16
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,766 Joined: 10-April 04 From: New Orleans, LA Member No.: 303 ![]() |
Randy, you said that you put the bleeder going below the housing for easier bleeding? Honestly, I think it's easier to run a 2-3ft longer hose and put the bleeder up in the engine bay. My bleeder is right next to the clutch resevoir. But, once I get the new pedals in the car, I think that the bleeder will actually come into the car with me. That way I can bleed, press the pedal, and add fluid all at once.
Don't know that I'll "keep" the line in the car for racing. I may do it such that I can simply thread it through a hole and into the car when needed, but it resides under the hood. Just don't know if I'm comfortable with the bleeder inside the car with me. What if it fails? |
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#17
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
Randy, you said that you put the bleeder going below the housing for easier bleeding? Honestly, I think it's easier to run a 2-3ft longer hose and put the bleeder up in the engine bay. My bleeder is right next to the clutch resevoir. But, once I get the new pedals in the car, I think that the bleeder will actually come into the car with me. That way I can bleed, press the pedal, and add fluid all at once. Don't know that I'll "keep" the line in the car for racing. I may do it such that I can simply thread it through a hole and into the car when needed, but it resides under the hood. Just don't know if I'm comfortable with the bleeder inside the car with me. What if it fails? I currently have the system you describe. A line right up next to the clutch resevoir--works OK. I think this will be a cleaner/neater install though....as long as you have a partner to bleed. I did not plumb the lines...some highly paid NASCAR guy did. The saftey wire job alone is amazing! I told my dad--my safety wire engineer--to go back to school! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) |
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#18
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/stupid.gif) Randy, you're a badass. Tell us about your LS7. It is still "in the works" stage. Haven't even seen a picture of it. This stuff is all coming from folks far and wide--a new approach for me--I typically use local guys. This is the motor base: QUOTE Specs: Type: LS7 7.0L Displacement: 427 Cubic Inches Compression Ratio: 11.4:1 Bore x Stroke: 4.125 x 4.000 Rev Limit: 7250 RPM Crank: Callies Forged Rods: Callies H-Beam Pistons: Mahle Motorsports Cam: Mast Custom 3-Bolt Core Cam Heads: Mast CNC LS7 Heads Intake: GMPP LS7 Intake Valve Springs: Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs LS7 Aluminum Block Plateau Honed to 4.125 True Surfaced Deck Engine Block Debured Blueprinted Shortblock ACL Rod and Crank Bearings Callies Forged 4.000” Stroked Crankshaft Callies Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods Custom Mahle Motorsports Pistons Mast Motorsports CNC LS7 Cylinder Heads ARP Head Bolts ARP Main Studs Cometic Headgaskets Mast 3 bolt Core Custom Hydraulic Roller Cam GMPP Cadillac Hydraulic Roller Lifters Mast Black Label Pushrods Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs Mast Hollow Stem Intake Valves Mast Exhaust Valves Titanium Retainers Machined Locks M-90 Calibrated ECM Main Wiring Harness Dash Harness Air Mass Harness Trans Harness EGO Harness Bosch EGO Sensor Fuel Pump Harness Fan Harness LS7 Intake Manifold GM 2010’ 90mm DBW Throttle Body Bosch Dead Headed Fuel Rail Bosch LS7 Fuel Injectors Mast 8 Layer Air Filter with IAT Bung Intake Air Temperature Sensor 560-2218 | info@ Crankshaft Position Sensor Camshaft Position Sensor Oil Pressure Sensor Oil Temperature Sensor Engine Coolant Temperature Engine Knock Sensors Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Ignition Coils Spark Plugs Plug Wires GM Foot Pedal GM Starter GM Oil Filter Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil Engine Break in Oil Additive Your choice of F-Body, Y-Body, or Truck Water Pump, Balancer, and Oil Pan Runs on Premium 91-93 Octane I have added some "racing" parts such as a 4 stage ARE dry sump, custom aftermarket heads, custom gear drive timing set, higher compression, etc...... |
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#19
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 ![]() |
Used circle track parts are where it's at. Buy them ASAP if you're getting into it though. The Cup stuff is mostly R07 parts now (8-bolt flywheel, etc). Nationwide, ARCA, and the trucks still run the other stuff, but they run it longer before selling.
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#20
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,766 Joined: 10-April 04 From: New Orleans, LA Member No.: 303 ![]() |
Used circle track parts are where it's at. Buy them ASAP if you're getting into it though. Werd!! Half my car is sourced from either used roundy-round parts or the local dirt/circle track shop. Basically, still a Pontiac drivetrain, body and chassis. But, most of the suspension, safety, clutch, and aero stuff is circle/dirt. |
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