Canton Sandwich Adapter, Plumbing/Fittings Options

[cccbock]

I swear I remember a photo on here of the Plumbing/Fittings on the adapter but I cannot find it anywhere after searching for 45 minutes. A lot of photos, but nothing of what Im needing.

The Canton oil adaptor fittings provided with the kit (LT1) exit to the side which puts them right into the headers. I don't think the hoses are gonna bend enough without laying up on or hitting the headers.

Im guessing that I need 90's or swivels to get these lines headed forward, but I have limited time, knowledge, and talent of plumbing with AN stuff. Normally, Im a rubber hose with a clamp kind of guy.

If somebody can point me to a decent photo, or a good description I would appreciate it.

TIA

Bock

[trackbird]

I swear I remember a photo on here of the Plumbing/Fittings on the adapter but I cannot find it anywhere after searching for 45 minutes. A lot of photos, but nothing of what Im needing.

The Canton oil adaptor fittings provided with the kit (LT1) exit to the side which puts them right into the headers. I don't think the hoses are gonna bend enough without laying up on or hitting the headers.

Im guessing that I need 90's or swivels to get these lines headed forward, but I have limited time, knowledge, and talent of plumbing with AN stuff. Normally, Im a rubber hose with a clamp kind of guy.

If somebody can point me to a decent photo, or a good description I would appreciate it.

TIA

Bock

Are you thinking of the thread about my car? It had pics of my setup and plumbing (I used the Moroso adaptor, but I think they are virtually interchangeable).

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9864

[cccbock]

Thanks Kevin.

I looked through the photos and it appears that your adapter runs the lines straiht out the bottom (perpendicular to the ground). And is used with a remote filter.

Mine exit parallel to the ground heading toward the driver side and allow a filter to be installed attached below the adapter.

I remember a picture on FRRAX showing this but it has been a few months since I saw it.

Bock

[trackbird]

Hmm, I remember that too, but I'm not sure where to find it. If I see it, I'll pass it along.

[Blainefab]

This may help: from http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...st&p=127079


(IMG:http://members.cruzio.com/~ablaine/span.jpg)

[cccbock]

This may help: from http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...st&p=127079

Although that is not the image I remember, it does help some. thanks Alan

Needless to say, the headers application is a little bit different.

I went to the local "bend you over, and steal your wallet too" drag race shop and got two 90's to try. they thought I needed swivel fittings, which sounded good until I saw the price....

Glad I got a good deal on the kit....this is getting expensive.

Thanks

Bock

[mitchntx]

Bock,

In my application, using the same sandwich adaptor, the forward most fitting, I use a straight adaptor and a 45* swivel fitting. The hose runs next to the block and out the front.

The fitting on the side, I use a 90* adaptor and a 45* swivel fitting on the hose. I route the hose out and along the frame rail.

The swivel fittings allows me to "clock" the hose to get max clearance.

[cccbock]

Bock,

In my application, using the same sandwich adaptor, the forward most fitting, I use a straight adaptor and a 45* swivel fitting. The hose runs next to the block and out the front.

The fitting on the side, I use a 90* adaptor and a 45* swivel fitting on the hose. I route the hose out and along the frame rail.

The swivel fittings allows me to "clock" the hose to get max clearance.

Mitch,

Are you running headers?

Based on my observations so far, I will need to run both lines along the block/oilpan below the motor mount. This is where I had the old GM coolant based system running.

The Hooker LT headers pretty much preclude getting to the frame rail without passing VERY close to a primary. I am hoping to "clock" the 90's something like 10 & 8 (or 11 & 7) exiting the adapter to make the turn going to the front.

I may end up with some swivel fittings, but due to cost I am trying to avoid them.

I'll let you know how it works out.

Thanks

Bock

[mitchntx]

No headers here.

[Blainefab]

Based on my observations so far, I will need to run both lines along the block/oilpan below the motor mount. This is where I had the old GM coolant based system running.

The Hooker LT headers pretty much preclude getting to the frame rail without passing VERY close to a primary. I am hoping to "clock" the 90's something like 10 & 8 (or 11 & 7) exiting the adapter to make the turn going to the front.

I may end up with some swivel fittings, but due to cost I am trying to avoid them.

I'll let you know how it works out.

Thanks

Bock

Bock - On my car, with LT headers, I route both lines alongside the pan. I sleeve the lines here with firesleeve (McMaster is cheaper than the race shops). I don't have the Canton sandwich on my car so can't help with specifics there. In general, it is cheaper to do the bends with a 90 or 45 NPT to AN adapter, and use straight AN hose ends. The caveat is that a pipe thread adapter is rarely pointing in the direction desired when it is tight.

[cccbock]

Bock - On my car, with LT headers, I route both lines alongside the pan. I sleeve the lines here with firesleeve (McMaster is cheaper than the race shops). I don't have the Canton sandwich on my car so can't help with specifics there. In general, it is cheaper to do the bends with a 90 or 45 NPT to AN adapter, and use straight AN hose ends. The caveat is that a pipe thread adapter is rarely pointing in the direction desired when it is tight.

Firesleeve caught my eye.

Although the lines running there with the old cooler were smaller, much closer to oil pan, and had coolant in them, I never had any troubles with heat in this location.

The new lines are steel braided...is there a safety concern requiring firesleeve in this location? Because it is oil, not water?

I noticed in the picture Kevin pointed to, it appeared that there was firesleeve material on and/or near the fittings at the adapter (which will be nearer to the header). Is that what you meant?

TIA

Bock

[trackbird]

One thing to remember, pipe thread to AN adaptors are "drilled" and have a 90 degree turn in them. Hose ends are radiused. This can (with enough fittings) cause a reduction of oil pressure. Hose ends are more effecient (I did use one pipe to an 90 because I had no choice with my steering box, but I avoid those and 180 fittings when I can).

[Blainefab]

One thing to remember, pipe thread to AN adaptors are "drilled" and have a 90 degree turn in them. Hose ends are radiused. This can (with enough fittings) cause a reduction of oil pressure. Hose ends are more effecient (I did use one pipe to an 90 because I had no choice with my steering box, but I avoid those and 180 fittings when I can).

Yabut the block galleys are drilled, without radiuses, so I don't worry much if the cross section is adequate.

[Blainefab]

Bock - On my car, with LT headers, I route both lines alongside the pan. I sleeve the lines here with firesleeve (McMaster is cheaper than the race shops). I don't have the Canton sandwich on my car so can't help with specifics there. In general, it is cheaper to do the bends with a 90 or 45 NPT to AN adapter, and use straight AN hose ends. The caveat is that a pipe thread adapter is rarely pointing in the direction desired when it is tight.

Firesleeve caught my eye.

The new lines are steel braided...is there a safety concern requiring firesleeve in this location? Because it is oil, not water?

Bock

The SS braided hose is abrasive, will saw thru things if in direct contact with a lot of vibration. The runs along the pan are difficult to inspect, and a bad place to spring a leak. That, and the fact that your hot and cool oil lines are running directly parallel to one another next to the hot pan - insulating will minimize the heat transfer to the cool line.

Any place that the SS line is in contact with (or near to) wiring or rubber hose or the radiator I slit a length of hose and slip over the SS line and zip tie it.

[mitchntx]

Bock - On my car, with LT headers, I route both lines alongside the pan. I sleeve the lines here with firesleeve (McMaster is cheaper than the race shops). I don't have the Canton sandwich on my car so can't help with specifics there. In general, it is cheaper to do the bends with a 90 or 45 NPT to AN adapter, and use straight AN hose ends. The caveat is that a pipe thread adapter is rarely pointing in the direction desired when it is tight.

Firesleeve caught my eye.

The new lines are steel braided...is there a safety concern requiring firesleeve in this location? Because it is oil, not water?

Bock

The SS braided hose is abrasive, will saw thru things if in direct contact with a lot of vibration. The runs along the pan are difficult to inspect, and a bad place to spring a leak. That, and the fact that your hot and cool oil lines are running directly parallel to one another next to the hot pan - insulating will minimize the heat transfer to the cool line.

Any place that the SS line is in contact with (or near to) wiring or rubber hose or the radiator I slit a length of hose and slip over the SS line and zip tie it.

Alan, for that very reason, we found a local hydraulic hose fabricator and sourced hose from them. The hose is designed for extreme environment use and has the same heat rating as what aeroquip sells and a higher psi rating ... 600/3000 comes to mind. And best of all, it is covered in a heavy fabric skin impregnated over the steel braid. The only down-side is that to install hose ends, the fabric has to be stripped from the braid. It's too large for the hose ends to squeeze into.