.....the resurection..... Options

[rmackintosh]

Well, we are heading full boat into the resurection of the Camaro in ITE. On order, being built, or currently being fabbed in are a new Speedway Engineering full floating 9" rear, NASCAR Tex 101A transmission and LS7 powerplant.

We have started with the rear, and have fabbed it into the car as of this weekend with a Unbalanced Engineering torque arm attached to it. I can say it is a TIGHT SQUEEZE! Man that housing is big! We had to dent up the gas tank to allow for the diff movement and new torque arm mounts on it! The diff should get all welded up this week and the major fab work done on the rear....I will get some pics soon.

The NASCAR parts from OvalSpeed on eBay...basically Tilton magnesium bellhousing, Tilton T/O bearing, Tex 101A, trans cooler etc....should be in this next week, and the motor in early January. Pics to follow of the build.

Here is a little tidbit from the last race:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2781/4200093975_50580bc12f_b.jpg)
YIKES!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) The last weekend of the car the starter jammed into the flexplate and we got it unjammed but the starter was done....push started the car for 2 races. Well, looky at the ring gear knocked COMPLETELY off the flexplate! Just sitting loose in there! I am so lucky that that thing didn't hit the flexplate spinning at 7000 RPM!!!!! KERPOW!!!!!
THAT would have been "bad"!

[roy]

Ouch on the ring gear

[Rob Hood]

Keep the updates coming...nice upgrades!

[firehawkclone]

Keep the pic's coming Randy! Build that ls7 very well bud, i haven't seen one last very long with monthly track abuse! Weather they be a stock or built motor. I never went over and ask what let go each time, but it wasn't good.

[CMC #37]

Wow! Tres kewl Randy! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[rmackintosh]

OK....some pics of the Speedway Engineering Full Floater:

mmmmm....brackets....
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2639/4216929325_f261a4d211.jpg)

The Mark Williams aluminum center section is SO big, we had to cut the housing to fit it in! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4217696600_ac42d25b75.jpg)

Other side showing brake brackets:
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4216930595_fc10a4a5ae.jpg)

Back end of Unbalance Engineering Torque Arm modified to attach to the HUGE 9" housing:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2728/4217698870_f026d776df.jpg)

[rmackintosh]

The new Tilton Magnesium Bell Housing:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2736/4217720188_a47d9560fd.jpg)
Is a VERY clean, almost new looking, bell and TO from a NASCAR team that would cost $1600+ new.....got it for $325 from a guy on eBay!

Bell from the interior:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2693/4216953963_418cbdf048.jpg)

Tilton T/O bearing with Quartermaster T/O bearing and piston for QM clutch:
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4216954687_b1c7b2e950.jpg)

[1meanZ]

Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal.

[00 Trans Ram]

A NASCAR team was using an LS7? Or will other bellhousings fit? Interested to know what will fit on an LS1, not that I'm buying anything soon.

[rmackintosh]

A NASCAR team was using an LS7? Or will other bellhousings fit? Interested to know what will fit on an LS1, not that I'm buying anything soon.

No, the bell fits an LS7 bolt pattern--not a LS7 NASCAR motor. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

I am no LS motor expert, but I think all the LS motors have the same rear bolt pattern.

[Blainefab]

Nice looking stuff, Randy! Remember I owe you powder coating on the beam and slider.

I'm a bit concerned about that new rear leg seeing bending loads, both accel and decel, thinking a gusset behind it back to one or both of the pumpkin mounts would be wise.

(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2728/4217698870_f026d776df.jpg)

[GlennCMC70]

are those lines backwards on the slave? shouldnt the pressure from the master come into the side and the bleeder come from the top?

[StanIROCZ]

Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal.

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/stupid.gif)

Randy, you're a badass.

Tell us about your LS7.

[rmackintosh]

Nice looking stuff, Randy! Remember I owe you powder coating on the beam and slider.

I'm a bit concerned about that new rear leg seeing bending loads, both accel and decel, thinking a gusset behind it back to one or both of the pumpkin mounts would be wise.

(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2728/4217698870_f026d776df.jpg)

Got ya on the concerns Alan! I wish I had taken some pics before we took it all apart!!! We are taking it to a shop to check for bending of the housing from all the welding tomorrow, and we will throw it back up there and see if there is some additional bracing we can add.

[rmackintosh]

are those lines backwards on the slave? shouldnt the pressure from the master come into the side and the bleeder come from the top?

No, the top IS the bleed, and it goes out the side of the bell and down to below it for easy bleeding. The side IS the pressure and goes out the top closer to the clutch master.

[00 Trans Ram]

Randy, you said that you put the bleeder going below the housing for easier bleeding? Honestly, I think it's easier to run a 2-3ft longer hose and put the bleeder up in the engine bay. My bleeder is right next to the clutch resevoir. But, once I get the new pedals in the car, I think that the bleeder will actually come into the car with me. That way I can bleed, press the pedal, and add fluid all at once.

Don't know that I'll "keep" the line in the car for racing. I may do it such that I can simply thread it through a hole and into the car when needed, but it resides under the hood. Just don't know if I'm comfortable with the bleeder inside the car with me. What if it fails?

[rmackintosh]

Randy, you said that you put the bleeder going below the housing for easier bleeding? Honestly, I think it's easier to run a 2-3ft longer hose and put the bleeder up in the engine bay. My bleeder is right next to the clutch resevoir. But, once I get the new pedals in the car, I think that the bleeder will actually come into the car with me. That way I can bleed, press the pedal, and add fluid all at once.

Don't know that I'll "keep" the line in the car for racing. I may do it such that I can simply thread it through a hole and into the car when needed, but it resides under the hood. Just don't know if I'm comfortable with the bleeder inside the car with me. What if it fails?

I currently have the system you describe. A line right up next to the clutch resevoir--works OK. I think this will be a cleaner/neater install though....as long as you have a partner to bleed. I did not plumb the lines...some highly paid NASCAR guy did. The saftey wire job alone is amazing! I told my dad--my safety wire engineer--to go back to school! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

[rmackintosh]

Something moved in my shorts when I looked at the pictures of that bellhousing. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) That is a sweet setup man. Its amazing how well some of that stuff is made compared to the junk I use on my car. And $325 is just a steal.

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/stupid.gif)

Randy, you're a badass.

Tell us about your LS7.

It is still "in the works" stage. Haven't even seen a picture of it. This stuff is all coming from folks far and wide--a new approach for me--I typically use local guys.

This is the motor base:

Specs:
Type: LS7 7.0L
Displacement: 427 Cubic Inches
Compression Ratio: 11.4:1
Bore x Stroke: 4.125 x 4.000
Rev Limit: 7250 RPM
Crank: Callies Forged
Rods: Callies H-Beam
Pistons: Mahle Motorsports
Cam: Mast Custom 3-Bolt Core Cam
Heads: Mast CNC LS7 Heads
Intake: GMPP LS7 Intake
Valve Springs: Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs



LS7 Aluminum Block
Plateau Honed to 4.125
True Surfaced Deck
Engine Block Debured
Blueprinted Shortblock
ACL Rod and Crank Bearings
Callies Forged 4.000” Stroked Crankshaft
Callies Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
Custom Mahle Motorsports Pistons
Mast Motorsports CNC LS7 Cylinder Heads
ARP Head Bolts
ARP Main Studs
Cometic Headgaskets
Mast 3 bolt Core Custom Hydraulic Roller Cam
GMPP Cadillac Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Mast Black Label Pushrods
Mast Premium Nitrided Dual Springs
Mast Hollow Stem Intake Valves
Mast Exhaust Valves
Titanium Retainers
Machined Locks
M-90 Calibrated ECM
Main Wiring Harness
Dash Harness
Air Mass Harness
Trans Harness
EGO Harness
Bosch EGO Sensor
Fuel Pump Harness
Fan Harness
LS7 Intake Manifold
GM 2010’ 90mm DBW Throttle Body
Bosch Dead Headed Fuel Rail
Bosch LS7 Fuel Injectors
Mast 8 Layer Air Filter with IAT Bung
Intake Air Temperature Sensor 560-2218 | info@
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Oil Temperature Sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature
Engine Knock Sensors
Manifold Air Pressure Sensor
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
GM Foot Pedal
GM Starter
GM Oil Filter
Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil
Engine Break in Oil Additive
Your choice of F-Body, Y-Body, or Truck Water Pump, Balancer, and Oil Pan
Runs on Premium 91-93 Octane

I have added some "racing" parts such as a 4 stage ARE dry sump, custom aftermarket heads, custom gear drive timing set, higher compression, etc......

[nape]

Used circle track parts are where it's at. Buy them ASAP if you're getting into it though. The Cup stuff is mostly R07 parts now (8-bolt flywheel, etc). Nationwide, ARCA, and the trucks still run the other stuff, but they run it longer before selling.

[00 Trans Ram]

Used circle track parts are where it's at. Buy them ASAP if you're getting into it though.

Werd!!

Half my car is sourced from either used roundy-round parts or the local dirt/circle track shop. Basically, still a Pontiac drivetrain, body and chassis. But, most of the suspension, safety, clutch, and aero stuff is circle/dirt.

[rmackintosh]

Progress is slow......but shiney! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2750/4269813912_534cc23e05.jpg)

(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4269813520_4d60663482.jpg)

All welded up and then taken to the dirt track shop to have it RE-BENT back into the shape I ordered it in.....and to Electro Plating Specialties for the pretty powder coating job.

Not much going on for updates while we wait for the trans and motor. I will get some more pics later this week.....

[rmackintosh]

FINALLY the trans arrives!

(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4275967188_19b9f3b7a2.jpg)

(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4275222095_2674773004.jpg)

(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4275221303_8ef38856d0.jpg)

[StanIROCZ]

Sweet!

I could probably google it and find it out, but is the T101 straight cut and dog ring?

[Rob Hood]

Randy, will you have any clearance issues with the new transmission due to the shift linkage?

[00 Trans Ram]

Beautiful, just beautiful.

Please continue to document the build and install. This is a project that may be in my future (way in the future). If/when the T-56 lets go, I probably won't put another one back in.

[rmackintosh]

Sweet!

I could probably google it and find it out, but is the T101 straight cut and dog ring?

It is a dog ring box.....woohoo.....should be fun!

[rmackintosh]

Randy, will you have any clearance issues with the new transmission due to the shift linkage?

I don't think so....but you never know. The T101a is a bit narrower so that helps....also, no TA on that side to worry about....I think there is some extra room there for the TA.

The shifter is within 1/2" of the stock location front to rear. It is dealing with the side saddle location that will be fun!

[StanIROCZ]

I had to ball peen hammer my trans tunnel for the shifter and shift linkage. It's all in my Jerico thread. 4th gen tunnel is different, though. I also played with the spacers to move the linkage as close to the trans as possible, that might help you out Randy.

[rmackintosh]

I had to ball peen hammer my trans tunnel for the shifter and shift linkage. It's all in my Jerico thread. 4th gen tunnel is different, though. I also played with the spacers to move the linkage as close to the trans as possible, that might help you out Randy.

Gotcha! That DOES help thanks! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

[rmackintosh]

OK. We borrowed an LS block with heads on it so that we can continue fabbing the things on the car.....the new motor is "taking its time" getting completed. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

So far I have the trans and bellhousing on the back of the LS motor, and 1/2 the exhaust system fabbed in. Should be getting the exhaust finished on Monday. The trans mount came out pretty trick.

We have cut enough on the trans tunnel to get the Tex 101A in there and working.....will need to do some more beating on the tunnel and some reinforcing and some boxing to cover the holes. That will be Tues-Weds projects at the fabricators. Will likely reduce the spacers a bit too on the shifter itself. The shifter came out about 1" to 2" more rearward than stock. I had planned it that way...I always had to stretch a bit in 5th and I may move the seat back someday....a rear bent shift lever should accomodate that. The shifter side mount may lead me to bend the shifter towards the center of the car.....we will see when it is all together.

No pics.....I maxed out my account this month with all the "For Sale" pics.....should have some in Feb.

[rmackintosh]

Photo updates:
The old junker motor in there:
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4328349985_6892a0afdb.jpg)

New Trans Mount:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2791/4329084362_21b0a185e7.jpg)

Uh oh.....there is LINKAGE??????
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4328351107_8b8c51b3b9.jpg)

My dual muffler system fabbed back in.....Lobaks for everywhere BUT Laguna....Spintechs for Laguna:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2781/4329103750_a5e1843653.jpg)

Look Ma! I got room for a cupholder now! I can put a whole six pack up there now:
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4329104244_723b62477a.jpg)

Ahhhhh.....linkage likey MUCH better:
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4329104942_732f751576.jpg)

Sexy new Mark Williams aluminum center section!:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2717/4328372731_d77d336ec9.jpg)

[aftermidnight]

nice work..... couple of good places to go

speedway motors
stock car products
performance bodies
arp world

good prices and fast shipping. never had any problems with any of these guys for building both my late models

[dailydriver]

SCHWEEET!

Do the Spin Techs flow as well as XR1s/etc., or are they the only thing that will bring the dbs down to Laguna's noise level requirements??

Is that a locker in the work of art MW center?

[rmackintosh]

SCHWEEET!

Do the Spin Techs flow as well as XR1s/etc., or are they the only thing that will bring the dbs down to Laguna's noise level requirements??

Is that a locker in the work of art MW center?

The Spin Techs are quiet....that is why I bought them....Laguna DOES NOT mess around. I haven't heard too much about the XR1s but Lou Gigliotti told me once that they did not knock down the noise too much.

No locker....still need my posi. It is a DPI Platinum Track. A competitor has been using them here with great success. Needs a rebuild once a year though.

[198esp]

any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.

[rmackintosh]

any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.

Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)

[97bird]

any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.

Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)

Yep, 150lbs. Have the delivery paper work to confirm it.
Thanks for the transmission Randy ! Now if I could only find a driveshaft (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[StanIROCZ]

any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.

Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)

I assume the T101 is similar in weight to the Jerico. If so, it's about 40 lbs lighter than a T56.

http://www.f-bodysport.com/jerico_4_speed.htm

[StanIROCZ]

How much (-)camber you dialing into your floater Randy?

[rmackintosh]

any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.

Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)

Yep, 150lbs. Have the delivery paper work to confirm it.
Thanks for the transmission Randy ! Now if I could only find a driveshaft (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I went to the box store yesterday and bought a tube for it......I just need to get out to the shop on Saturday to pick up the driveshaft. I will ship it on Monday I think.

:-D

[rmackintosh]

How much (-)camber you dialing into your floater Randy?

It is set at .6 degrees now. It came with 3/4 degrees from Speedway, but my fabricator though that was a bit much as did the diff manufacturer and the rear end guy who straightened it after welding.

[Rob Hood]

any idea what the new trans/clutch package weighs compared to the old setup. I just pulled my t-56 and my left nut is still rolling around some where. I was thinking of doing some thing like you are. Since i need a new clutch assembly and a starter.

Well, I had the Tex 101a and bell shipped to me.....weighed 100 lbs. I shipped out my trans and bell......weighed approximately 150 lbs. Go figure! ;-)

Yep, 150lbs. Have the delivery paper work to confirm it.
Thanks for the transmission Randy ! Now if I could only find a driveshaft (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I went to the box store yesterday and bought a tube for it......I just need to get out to the shop on Saturday to pick up the driveshaft. I will ship it on Monday I think.

:-D

Quick sidebar - 4th gen driveshafts will fit in a single golf club box (3 or 4 iron length or longer). Check with your local golf store for a free box...

Back to our regularly scheduled programming...

[dailydriver]

How much (-)camber you dialing into your floater Randy?

It is set at .6 degrees now. It came with 3/4 degrees from Speedway, but my fabricator though that was a bit much as did the diff manufacturer and the rear end guy who straightened it after welding.

Some of the Aussie V-8 Supercars run up to -2* on their floaters, but we all know they're crazy anyway. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (They run SPOOLS in those things!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_eek2.gif) )

[rmackintosh]

Got the rear mostly buttoned up today.....center section in, axle endplay set, floater hubs on, torque arm on, brakes almost on.....forgot my camera though.....
(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

[firehawkclone]

forgot my camera though.....
(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

Sinner (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Randy did you weigh the two axles?

[rmackintosh]

forgot my camera though.....
(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

Sinner (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Randy did you weigh the two axles?

Sorry I did not....they are not light however.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

[Blainefab]

Randy - Did you consider using a motor plate instead of the mounts to the Kmember? I've got a LS2 install coming up next month, into a LT1 car, and have been thinking a plate would simplify some parts of the task.

[rmackintosh]

Randy - Did you consider using a motor plate instead of the mounts to the Kmember? I've got a LS2 install coming up next month, into a LT1 car, and have been thinking a plate would simplify some parts of the task.

I did not, for "ease" of fabrication. I KNOW that my fabricator thinks I was crazy for NOT doing this, and after modifying the UMI crossmember to clear my new dry sump pump, I probably was wrong. Oh well, lesson learned.

[rmackintosh]

Here are the latest pictures:

The center section....all aluminum and sheit...
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4365084179_5cab7540f8.jpg)

Full Floater baby!
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2763/4365827140_3ea4aec12e.jpg)

Had to repair the panhard bar bracket....TWICE!
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4365827036_1361562079.jpg)

Slotted panhard bar on drivers side....
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2752/4365826938_c9bd550c74.jpg)

Torque Arm in there......still need to put in the adjustable part.
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2697/4365083543_a33ce6cfe6.jpg)

The motor is sitting there on a crate, we are dealing with issues already. The dry sump pump didn't look like it would fit, so we modified the motor mounts on the UMI crossmember to have more clearance. The new Tilton Super Starter didn't even fit the starter bolts.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) ....damn. Had to shim the starter and shim the bellhousing....and have to figure out how to get all that wire into the car for the PCM, fuse block and relay block. Hope to put the motor in on Saturday.

[StanIROCZ]

(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4329104244_723b62477a.jpg)

You happy with that single rectangle tube column mount? Is it stiff enough for your tastes? I'm thinking of doing almost the same thing, cept mine will be mounted to my pedal brackets instead of the dash bar.

[198esp]

how wide is that rear, did you ever think of mini tubbing the car to fit a bigger tire than a 315, it looks great

[Blainefab]

Randy - good time to get rid of some ballast:

an easy 3-4lbs here, and there are several more seatbelt mount backing plates that can come off:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/4365083543_a33ce6cfe6.jpg)

[rmackintosh]

Randy - good time to get rid of some ballast:

an easy 3-4lbs here, and there are several more seatbelt mount backing plates that can come off:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/4365083543_a33ce6cfe6.jpg)

Yeah, I know, and I plan to get at that stuff....I just haven't been spendinng much time with the car as my work won't allow it.....my dad has been on it mostly, he was concerned that he could not get those off withoug cutting big spot weld cutter holes in the floor, so he just ground them down. I will look at removing more of them later when we FINALLY get it home.

Got the motor in this weekend and the trans too.....now just need to ensure the steering will be OK and we bring it home for final assembly. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[rmackintosh]

how wide is that rear, did you ever think of mini tubbing the car to fit a bigger tire than a 315, it looks great

It is stock width....I plan on 335's some day, but I would want to flare out, not tub in.......

[nape]

Lookin' good, Randy! I really wish I could join you with the dog ring trans and aluminum center section, but I love my Mag case T-10 and iron centered floater just the same. Way better then the stock stuff.

3.64 was a little much last year (6800-7000RPM at Mid-O), so I'm getting a 3.40 put together and a super close ratio box (2.43, 1.48, 1.18) freshened up later this week. Come on race season! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Blainefab]

Randy - good time to get rid of some ballast:

an easy 3-4lbs here, and there are several more seatbelt mount backing plates that can come off:

he was concerned that he could not get those off withoug cutting big spot weld cutter holes in the floor,

Yup, that's how you remove them - then patch the holes with fiberglass.

(IMG:http://www.skyhighway.com/~bfpix4/IMG_1682.JPG)

[Blainefab]

how wide is that rear, did you ever think of mini tubbing the car to fit a bigger tire than a 315, it looks great

It is stock width....I plan on 335's some day, but I would want to flare out, not tub in.......

Agreed - I'm going to be flaring a Transam for 18x13's next month.

[rmackintosh]

(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4329104244_723b62477a.jpg)

You happy with that single rectangle tube column mount? Is it stiff enough for your tastes? I'm thinking of doing almost the same thing, cept mine will be mounted to my pedal brackets instead of the dash bar.

Happy.....no....but it works fine and is plenty stff enough. It is a legacy from the old stock dash I had in there. I was the best I could do and still keep that dash. Now I would prefer a hoop like you see in many of Alan's photos......I will see if I can get it....my fabricator is getting sick of my car, and is past ready to see it leave his shop......sigh....me too.

[StanIROCZ]

Happy.....no....but it works fine and is plenty stff enough. It is a legacy from the old stock dash I had in there. I was the best I could do and still keep that dash. Now I would prefer a hoop like you see in many of Alan's photos......I will see if I can get it....my fabricator is getting sick of my car, and is past ready to see it leave his shop......sigh....me too.

So if it works fine and is pleanty stiff, what is the problem? Not sexy? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[rmackintosh]

Happy.....no....but it works fine and is plenty stff enough. It is a legacy from the old stock dash I had in there. I was the best I could do and still keep that dash. Now I would prefer a hoop like you see in many of Alan's photos......I will see if I can get it....my fabricator is getting sick of my car, and is past ready to see it leave his shop......sigh....me too.

So if it works fine and is pleanty stiff, what is the problem? Not sexy? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

That and I was thinking "anti-impalement" with a hoop..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

[198esp]

how wide is that rear, did you ever think of mini tubbing the car to fit a bigger tire than a 315, it looks great

It is stock width....I plan on 335's some day, but I would want to flare out, not tub in.......

Agreed - I'm going to be flaring a Transam for 18x13's next month.

Alan, make sure you post those pics, How are you flaring the fenders and quarter panels. fiberglass,carbon fiber. cant wait to see

[rmackintosh]

Update time!!!

Look Ma....I found an LS7 in my car!
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4417745571_1bb50fde68.jpg)

Twin coolers in the trunk for the diff and trans:
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4418510832_537a9fcf60.jpg)

Trunk area buttoned up with a fan for the trunk mounted coolers:
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2645/4417746001_a5efdd2964.jpg)

WOW! A dash!
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4417746105_c3da8139a5.jpg)

The MAST Motorsports ECU:
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4418511332_19c826c278.jpg)

I gotta say the quality of the Mast ECU, wiring harness, connectors, etc. has been TOP notch. The ECU connector there sets in there and there is a sliding lock that sucks the pins together and locks the connector on the ECU.

SWEET!

[firehawkclone]

WOW, very nice Randy! Where does the heat from the rear coolers exit?

And i was all happy about my rear lexan!

[mitchntx]

Look Ma....I found an LS7 in my car!
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4417745571_1bb50fde68.jpg)

I think your spark plug wires are routed wrong ...

I'm jus' sayin' ...






Nice, Randy.

[rmackintosh]

Look Ma....I found an LS7 in my car!
(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2725/4417745571_1bb50fde68.jpg)

I think your spark plug wires are routed wrong ...

I'm jus' sayin' ...






Nice, Randy.

I KNOW!!!

I am used to routing my LT1 wires up to the radiator, wrapping them around the headlight, back to the brake booster, to the bell housing and then to the plugs to avoid burning a wire every 20 minutes.....sheesh......6 inch wires....REALLY! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

THAT will be nice!

[rmackintosh]

WOW, very nice Randy! Where does the heat from the rear coolers exit?

And i was all happy about my rear lexan!

I drilled holes in the back of the trunk into the rear bumper area, I have the bottom of the bumper sealed off from below...so the air goes out the back, into the bumper area and out the sides of the bumper. That is one reason the coolers are tilted back like that instead of straight down. I did not want to vent down and have air intrusion into the car....

[rmackintosh]

WOOT!
(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

[ERVRCG]

Electronic Throttle?

[rmackintosh]

Electronic Throttle?

...yep.....kinda weird not walking up to the throttle body and blipping it there......

[firehawkclone]

When do you go to the dyno Randy?

[rmackintosh]

When do you go to the dyno Randy?

Trying to get it all done by early next week so I MAYBE can get a shakedown day in before race #1 and #2

[rmackintosh]

Here she is!
(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4471279005_ebf945608c.jpg)

(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2761/4471278609_f246fa47d8.jpg)

(IMG:http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4472057490_1f5762c8a9.jpg)

(IMG:http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2763/4472057402_a8f8ec0db0.jpg)
I have ACTUALLY driven it now! The neighbors likely HATE me after some "blasts" up and down the street.....

HOLY SMOKES!!!! This thing is S.T.R.O.N.G.!!!

I will need to get used to the howl of the Tex and shifting the thing, but it seemed OK for the 10 minutes or so I drove it.

Hope to make race #1 and #2 in a few weeks. Going to the alignment shop on Tuesday.

This post has been edited by rmackintosh: Mar 29 2010, 01:47 AM

[mitchntx]

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

Look at the oil pressure! Are you afraid of washing the babbit out of the bearings? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[1meanZ]

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

Look at the oil pressure! Are you afraid of washing the babbit out of the bearings? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Nah, Aunt Jemima supplied the assembly lube, he's good to go!!

AWESOME car! The stuff guys like me dream of. Congrats on the next steps of an already awesome build.

[firehawkclone]

As always, very nice Randy.

?'s

Why wrap the Vac hose for the booster?

Why are you using a STB now?

Is that a FP reg on the firewall?

[mitchntx]

OK ... school me ...

Is there no MAF required?

[cccbock]

Veeeerrry Nice. Drool.
bock

[trackbird]

Randy, the car looks FANTASTIC!!!! Nicely done!

I'm hoping that oil pressure is just a result of cold oil and assembly lube. I'd be concerned if it stays up there. That much pressure is likely to put a lot of heat in the oil from the oil pump. Either way, great job. I am anxious to see how the shakedown goes.

[GlennCMC70]

I don't see the issue w/ the pressure. Its the top left for pressure. Temp is the lower right.

[rmackintosh]

The oil pressure worried me a bit too. It is 80 at idle and off the guage at revs.....but this is full cold.

I drove it for about 10 minutes yesterday and when I came back....pressure was at 60 psi. Just about perfect.

The motor has only a few minutes on it, so there is still some lube in there I am sure. I am told that I need to get the thing up to operating temp on the track and see where we stand with the oil pressure. There is a set screw on the side of the dry sump pump to change it.

We are having an issue with the Ox Sensor right now. It does not want to go into closed loop. I think there is a broke wire...which explains the choppy idle in that video. I have been able to program out the choppy idle, but it is a bit too high now. Need to track down the wire issue and fix the idle a bit more.

[rmackintosh]

As always, very nice Randy.

?'s

Why wrap the Vac hose for the booster?

Why are you using a STB now?

Is that a FP reg on the firewall?

I always had the Firesleeve on the old booster hose...just moved it to the new hose by habit....and over cautiousness

I always had a STB. The old one was a lot thinner/smaller because it was straight across....the new one is bigger to support the bends

Yes, that is the same fuel pressure regulator off of the old LT1 motor.

[GlennCMC70]

never mind. i just saw the link and watched it.

Randy - I hate you.

[dailydriver]

I will need to get used to the howl of the Tex and shifting the thing, but it seemed OK for the 10 minutes or so I drove it.

Just think, now you will not have to worry about too much engine/exhaust noise, as those straight cut doggies will drown out everything. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_grin.gif)

Is that a Long shifter on top of the Tex?

[StanIROCZ]

re: gear whine:
I love the gear whine.... just think..., In my day job I spend a lot of time trying to make gears quiet.. With the jerico I get to say screw it! The whine is there to remind you what you got down there.

re: dog rings:
The palm of my hand gets sore after a bunch of drivng. BANG BANG BANG sweet! Feel free to insert lude joke here!

[rmackintosh]

Is that a Long shifter on top of the Tex?

...yes it is.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)