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#1
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
Well in the never ending quest for more headroom I bought a manual seat slider from a '97 Trans Am to replace my power slider (yes I have a cop car with power seats + bose). The manual bracket didn't seem to gain me anything.
The manual slider has rear mounts riveted to the rails that bolt to the floor-these are offset and raise it up some. I drilled the rivets out and took a 1.5"x.125" piece of aluminum flat stock and bolted this to the studs in the floor straight across. I then bolted the rails directly onto the flat stock with 1/4" bolts. I gained about 1/2" of headroom which was well worth it. I'll replace this with steel flat stock after sunday's autocross. The main reason I have so many headroom issues is I have a hardtop and I have a long upper body. I also like to sit forward in order to hug the steering wheel-I have a lot more strength and control sitting up on the wheel. I think I'm going to get the adapater that allows me to bolt in a regular racing wheel. I could then move the wheel an inch or so closer to me with a regular spacer thus letting me sit back farther. Of course losing the airbag means I'll probably switch to a closed face helmet. |
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#2
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
Went ahead and ordered the a grant wheel and adapter.
Grant Adapter # 3196 fits 3rd gens (works on 4th gens as well) and Grant #1044 black Formula 1 steering wheel (IMG:http://www.jegs.com/photos/4701064.jpg) My car isn't a daily driver so I'm not too worried about the airbag removal. |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 340 Joined: 6-February 04 From: Stockton, California Member No.: 181 ![]() |
The new wheel might be a few pounds lighter, which is always good.
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#4
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Seeking round tuits ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 ![]() |
QUOTE (robz71lm7 @ Mar 15 2005, 06:03 PM) The manual slider has rear mounts riveted to the rails that bolt to the floor-these are offset and raise it up some. I drilled the rivets out and took a 1.5"x.125" piece of aluminum flat stock and bolted this to the studs in the floor straight across. I then bolted the rails directly onto the flat stock with 1/4" bolts. I gained about 1/2" of headroom which was well worth it. I'll replace this with steel flat stock after sunday's autocross. Would that work on the power slider? I'll have to remember take a look at your setup Sunday if I have everything together by then. I gave up on finding suitable race seats for now and bought some TA seats with inflatable side bolsters. Yeah, I know they are heavier. Maybe I'll go really weird and put the power-everything TA seats on manual sliders (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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#5
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
I don't know for sure yet, but the eventual plan is to be able to switch back to power seats. I just didn't want to mess with my nice power seat brackets. I also hoped the manual slider would gain me headroom which it didn't. I'll take a look at my power slider sometime later today.
I ended up having to change my steering wheel order this morning. I had to switch to the same wheel in 13.75" vs 13.5". But this is new wheel is going to be another 1/4" closer to me than the one that was backordered. I think the stocker was between 14.5-14.75". Anyways I have wheel # 1064 on order now. I did use some big fender washers to prevent the 1/4" bolts from pulling through the aluminum, but it really needs to be steel. I've given up on race seats for the time being. It's either a cheap race only seat or a seat that costs $500+ which I may end up not liking. |
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