 The new to me 1992 Z28, Photos and build information inside |
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 May 26 2007, 03:59 AM
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#1
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FRRAX Owner/Admin  Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196  |
It's in the garage and I took a few photos (in the garage). They aren't great, but you can get an idea of what kind of work I still have cut out for me.
Don't give me any crap about the picture sizes. I switched this machine to Windows Vista and my resizer won't work and I had to find another one. So, I'm stuck with what I've got right now. It's a bit ugly, and plenty dusty, but it's "mine".
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May 26 2007, 04:05 AM
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#2
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Scaring slow F body drivers with a VW diesel Group: Member Posts: 449 Joined: 23-June 04 From: Mt Gilead, Ohio Member No.: 376 |
You even have a seat for it now!
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May 26 2007, 04:08 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 997 Joined: 28-June 05 From: North Dallas, TX Member No.: 791 |
You have been slacking lately with no car to work on. I'd say you better get cracking. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/whip.gif)
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May 26 2007, 04:51 AM
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#4
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Mericet @ May 26 2007, 12:05 AM)  You even have a seat for it now! Yes I do. Thank you very much for the donation! You just want to autocross it, that's why you gave me a seat..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) |
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May 26 2007, 10:36 AM
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#5
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,947 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Everett, WA Member No.: 16 |
What intake manifold is that?
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May 26 2007, 10:46 AM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 854 Joined: 26-December 03 From: NYC, NY Member No.: 50 |
looks like a good start, congrats. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
Also... what Jon said. |
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May 26 2007, 12:40 PM
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#7
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Jon A @ May 26 2007, 06:36 AM) What intake manifold is that? Holley Stealth Ram. It's basically an EFI tunnel ram setup. I guess Holley is selling it as a Weiand piece too, but it's this one: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv..._10002_88790_-1 |
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May 26 2007, 02:27 PM
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#8
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Scaring slow F body drivers with a VW diesel Group: Member Posts: 449 Joined: 23-June 04 From: Mt Gilead, Ohio Member No.: 376 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ May 26 2007, 12:51 AM) You just want to autocross it, that's why you gave me a seat..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) Whatever it takes man, whatever it takes! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/bigok.gif) |
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May 26 2007, 02:49 PM
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#9
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Mericet @ May 26 2007, 10:27 AM) QUOTE (trackbird @ May 26 2007, 12:51 AM) You just want to autocross it, that's why you gave me a seat..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) Whatever it takes man, whatever it takes! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/bigok.gif) Well, this one has "track whore" written all over it. I've got a brake kit in a box, 4 IROC wheels in a stack, a seat on the floor, Koni's in a box, rear GC springs and jacks in the corner, tires on the way, and a 22mm hollow sway bar in the garage. I need front springs, front Koni's and 17" wheels (and to get all of it installed). Let me know when you're bored..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) It's already got a large front sway bar, SFC's, and a reasonable amount of torque (and possibly some horsepower). |
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May 26 2007, 03:15 PM
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#10
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
17" wheels are overrated. Run the 16"'ers and build it for CMC... this is coming from a guy trying to run AI. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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May 26 2007, 03:49 PM
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#11
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (nape @ May 26 2007, 11:15 AM) 17" wheels are overrated. Run the 16"'ers and build it for CMC... this is coming from a guy trying to run AI. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's got a splayed main cap 353 with a billet front cap, ARP studs, a crane roller cam, aluminum heads, undercut valves, comp pro magnum roller rockers, a stealth ram and a 6 speed/3.73 combo, I've got C4hd rotors and "1LE" calipers in a box to install and plenty of other stuff (spohn crossmember/torque arm combo, etc). It's way too far gone to back up now. I've got a set of 1992 wheels that are mostly round (I think they'd be ok for track wheels, but the bead area is slightly not round, but it doesn't seem to have actually bent the wheel) and I've got 4 IROC wheels that I'm going to use for a while then they'll be up for sale. |
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May 26 2007, 05:54 PM
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#12
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CMCer Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 |
Very cool project, sort of like my '91 Formula! I will give you some crap about the kitty litter - one might say keeping cats and hi-po/race cars are very compatible in a way, eh Mitch? Meow!!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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May 26 2007, 06:57 PM
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#13
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,038 Joined: 29-December 03 From: Texas, USA Member No.: 62 |
Congrats Kevin..
92 Camaros seem to be getting around these days <looks around><shifty eyes>! Costas cars and such... |
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May 26 2007, 09:30 PM
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#14
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Scaring slow F body drivers with a VW diesel Group: Member Posts: 449 Joined: 23-June 04 From: Mt Gilead, Ohio Member No.: 376 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ May 26 2007, 10:49 AM) Let me know when you're bored..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) That could take a while. Got a few things of my own to take care of. Still, let me know when you need a hand. |
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May 27 2007, 08:17 AM
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#15
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ May 26 2007, 10:49 AM) QUOTE (nape @ May 26 2007, 11:15 AM) 17" wheels are overrated. Run the 16"'ers and build it for CMC... this is coming from a guy trying to run AI. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's got a splayed main cap 353 with a billet front cap, ARP studs, a crane roller cam, aluminum heads, undercut valves, comp pro magnum roller rockers, a stealth ram and a 6 speed/3.73 combo, I've got C4hd rotors and "1LE" calpers in a box to install and plenty of other stuff (spohn crossmember/torque arm combo, etc). It's way too far gone to back up now. I've got a set of 1992 wheels that are mostly round (I think they'd be ok for track wheels, but the bead area is slightly not round, but it doesn't seem to have actually bent the wheel) and I've got 4 IROC wheels that I'm going to use for a while then they'll be up for sale. Nah, it's not too far gone until you start doing stuff like cutting the roof support out for weight... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif) C4HD rotors work, you'd just have to cut them down to 12". Anyway, run it as a track car with the bullet, then WHEN you decide to race, give CMC a long think (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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May 27 2007, 11:08 AM
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#16
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
I'll probably go AV8SS if I run any series. I won't make all of the events, but I might hit the close ones. That might leave me to run AI/AIX from time to time as well. And, I suspect that we'll autocross the crap out of it too.
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May 27 2007, 03:22 PM
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#17
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
Right on Kevin, looks like a fun project buddy.
congrat's |
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May 27 2007, 07:08 PM
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#18
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 592 Joined: 16-October 06 From: Logan, UT Member No.: 1,416 |
NICE !!! Can't wait to see it track ready ! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Please post pic up of the firewall mods / plate when you delete the A/C and heater ... my A/C is gone but the box and heater stuff is still there.. I think it might be time to get rid of it..... ~DaVe This post has been edited by BumpaD_Z28: May 27 2007, 07:17 PM |
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May 27 2007, 07:31 PM
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#19
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (BumpaD_Z28 @ May 27 2007, 03:08 PM) NICE !!! Can't wait to see it track ready ! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Please post pic up of the firewall mods / plate when you delete the A/C and heater ... my A/C is gone but the box and heater stuff is still there.. I think it might be time to get rid of it..... ~DaVe I've done it before, it's easy. Rip it all out, cut plates, seal with sealer (silicone?) and rivet in place. It's not a difficult job. |
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May 27 2007, 07:45 PM
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#20
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 |
Nice to have another 3rd Gen-er on the board! Esp nice since it is the Admin (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)
I like the color of the hood (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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May 28 2007, 05:04 AM
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#21
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Race Driver Group: Advanced Members Posts: 382 Joined: 14-February 04 From: SoCal Member No.: 205 |
Sweet. Though I am disappointed you're not pointing to CMC.
But I bet if you brought the car to MidOhio in September, the Texas compound could have it fixed up in a day or so! This post has been edited by bsim: May 28 2007, 05:04 AM |
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May 28 2007, 10:04 AM
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#22
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 359 Joined: 7-February 04 Member No.: 183 |
Third gens are cool. My first car was a third gen Camaro. Now that they are almost emissions exempt in my state, it'd be great to get one and have the freedom to do whatever with the motor legally.
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May 28 2007, 01:04 PM
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#23
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 26-May 07 Member No.: 1,802 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ May 26 2007, 05:40 AM) QUOTE (Jon A @ May 26 2007, 06:36 AM) What intake manifold is that? Holley Stealth Ram. It's basically an EFI tunnel ram setup. I guess Holley is selling it as a Weiand piece too, but it's this one: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/serv..._10002_88790_-1 If you go to the B 100, you should talk to my nav Ellis about his custom work on those intakes. He's fabbed up two of them now & they seem to make some serious power. They even look purdy (after I polish them). |
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Jun 1 2007, 10:40 PM
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#24
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 |
Nice...looks like it's going to be a fun project.
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Jun 3 2007, 09:39 PM
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#25
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 221 Joined: 2-December 05 From: Haslett, MI Member No.: 997 |
Like, when are we going to get our thirdgens together and thrash them?
NFME is dead for '07 so I'm done for, and in need for some driving. Preferrably June 27th through 29th. |
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Jun 4 2007, 04:40 AM
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#26
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (ws6transam @ Jun 3 2007, 05:39 PM) Like, when are we going to get our thirdgens together and thrash them? NFME is dead for '07 so I'm done for, and in need for some driving. Preferrably June 27th through 29th. Can't make it to Nashville? I remember seeing your car at the NFME in 2005, it's a beautiful car and I'd love to get together for some track time. We spent this afternoon trying to fine tune mine, it's getting closer. |
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Jun 5 2007, 02:04 PM
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#27
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Well, last night was productive. I was inspired by our stripping of the 24 Hours of Lemons project car on Sunday night and I removed a large portion of the interior of the Camaro last night. The only things in the car right now are the front seats, the carpet and the door panels (which I've just not pulled off yet). Everything is out of the rear, I just have to unbolt the bottoms of the seatbelts and remove them and pull the speakers and speaker wiring to complete the rear section.
I guess I should take a few pics and post them as progress is made. |
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Jun 7 2007, 03:52 AM
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#28
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Progress:
The rear portion of the interior is now gone, the rest will be coming soon.
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Jun 7 2007, 04:03 AM
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#29
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
The Blaine Fabrication rear spoiler is on the car and we now have rear deck pins to hold the hatch shut.
Picture 58 is where I laid out some (almost straight) lines on the hatch to line up the spoiler. Picture 60 shows that I laid out the mounting location, then called Alan and then moved it. That explains all off the bolt holes that I have marked out. Oops. Picture 61 shows that you should use a straight edge to make sure you don't have the spoiler bent, tweeked or otherwise twisted before you mark and drill the holes. Remove the hatch latch plate and the electric hatch mechanisim, center punch your holes and start drilling (once you've checked and re-checked and are sure that everything is lined up). Picture 108 shows that the 3rd gen hatch should use 4 long bolts on the hatch (two on each end), but, if you drill through the bottom skin with a #3 Unibit, you can stick a deep well socket in there and use the short bolts. So, that's what I did. Picture 109 shows the mounting plate and hardware after it's bolted into place. Picture 110 shows the spoiler once it's been bolted down. Picture 111 shows where I mounted the rear hatch pins. Picture 112 is the bottom of the hatch where the pins are mounted. Picture 114 shows where the pins are in relation to the spoiler. Picture 119 shows the hatch pins installed and complete. All of which explains why there is still interior stuff in this car right now. I've been busy doing other things.
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Jun 8 2007, 12:48 AM
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#30
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Scaring slow F body drivers with a VW diesel Group: Member Posts: 449 Joined: 23-June 04 From: Mt Gilead, Ohio Member No.: 376 |
Looks good. I knew you said something about replacing the hood. If you need a replacement, let me know. There's one standing in my barn.
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Jun 8 2007, 01:16 AM
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#31
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 440 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 41 |
nice. looks like you're having a good time
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Jun 8 2007, 03:21 AM
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#32
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (prockbp @ Jun 7 2007, 09:16 PM) nice. looks like you're having a good time If it involves cars and power tools, I'm having fun (though it's often said that no good can come from combining me, cars and power tools, and they might be right). |
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Jun 8 2007, 04:25 PM
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#33
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North of the border Group: Admin Posts: 2,307 Joined: 4-February 04 From: Montreal, CANADA Member No.: 177 |
i even contributed on the weight-savings on the car, as well as breaking a bolt (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/lmao.gif)
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Jun 8 2007, 04:27 PM
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#34
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Eugenio_SS @ Jun 8 2007, 12:25 PM) ....as well as breaking a bolt (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/lmao.gif) I gave him a Snap On ratchet that's marked "on" and "off" and he still managed to twist off a bolt..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) On the other hand, that might be the easiest that any of them came off of there. Maybe it was the right way to do it. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) Thanks for the help Eugenio. |
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Jun 8 2007, 07:23 PM
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#35
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 209 Joined: 6-August 05 From: Cumberland, Md Member No.: 841 |
QUOTE (Mericet @ Jun 7 2007, 06:48 PM) Looks good. I knew you said something about replacing the hood. If you need a replacement, let me know. There's one standing in my barn. x2 Im in Cumberland and have an iroc hood (no louvers) I need to dispose of so if youre ever through and want it let me know. Im looking for an 82-83 z28 fiberglass hood... |
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Jun 8 2007, 08:28 PM
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#36
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (slowcamaro @ Jun 8 2007, 03:23 PM) QUOTE (Mericet @ Jun 7 2007, 06:48 PM) Looks good. I knew you said something about replacing the hood. If you need a replacement, let me know. There's one standing in my barn. x2 Im in Cumberland and have an iroc hood (no louvers) I need to dispose of so if youre ever through and want it let me know. Im looking for an 82-83 z28 fiberglass hood... I'll be through there tonight... But I don't need it. |
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Jun 8 2007, 09:25 PM
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#37
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North of the border Group: Admin Posts: 2,307 Joined: 4-February 04 From: Montreal, CANADA Member No.: 177 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 8 2007, 12:27 PM) QUOTE (Eugenio_SS @ Jun 8 2007, 12:25 PM) ....as well as breaking a bolt (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/lmao.gif) I gave him a Snap On ratchet that's marked "on" and "off" and he still managed to twist off a bolt..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) On the other hand, that might be the easiest that any of them came off of there. Maybe it was the right way to do it. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) Thanks for the help Eugenio. yeah... should've done the same for the other 3 bolts... lol too bad i miss most of the fun... we should've done more on the car while we were both there... it's fun. Thanks for your help on my car too (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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Jun 8 2007, 09:59 PM
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#38
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 209 Joined: 6-August 05 From: Cumberland, Md Member No.: 841 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 8 2007, 02:28 PM) QUOTE (slowcamaro @ Jun 8 2007, 03:23 PM) QUOTE (Mericet @ Jun 7 2007, 06:48 PM) Looks good. I knew you said something about replacing the hood. If you need a replacement, let me know. There's one standing in my barn. x2 Im in Cumberland and have an iroc hood (no louvers) I need to dispose of so if youre ever through and want it let me know. Im looking for an 82-83 z28 fiberglass hood... I'll be through there tonight... But I don't need it. Anything you do need? |
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Jun 8 2007, 10:13 PM
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#39
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 6 2007, 10:52 PM) Progress: The rear portion of the interior is now gone, the rest will be coming soon. Sweet, almost time for spot weld cutters and an angle grinder with a knotted wheel (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) |
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Jun 9 2007, 02:24 AM
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#40
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Nothing says 'I love you.' like a box of Hydroshoks Group: Moderators Posts: 5,284 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Granbury, TX Member No.: 4 |
You planning on keeping a spare tire in there?
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Jun 9 2007, 02:19 PM
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#41
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (mitchntx @ Jun 8 2007, 10:24 PM) You planning on keeping a spare tire in there? Nope. I was thinking that I should cut the bracket out (unless there is a good reason not to) as well as many other brackets along the way. I don't have a spot weld cutter, but I probably should look into one. I intend to take out all of the brackets that I can since I won't be needing them. What do you guys think I can get a stripped 3rd gen to weigh once it's missing all of the extras? Is it possible to get to 2,600 lbs before the cage? |
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Jun 9 2007, 05:49 PM
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#42
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
If you're taking side windows and inside guts of the door out, you can get there.
My car is down to 3020 with me (215lbs), 15 gals of fuel (6.5lbs/gal = ~98lbs), and approx 100ft of cage (1.6lb/ft = 160lbs). That puts the car at approx 2550 before me and fuel (with iron heads). There's a ton of work to get down to that weight though. I stripped my car for over two months before I sent it to the fabricator. Every bracket is gone, all seam filler is gone (over 10lbs), and I even cut 15lbs out of the roof structure. |
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Jun 9 2007, 10:05 PM
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#43
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
TJ,
Is that with a glass hood or the steel one? I've already got aluminum heads, but I've got a Stealth Ram intake so there's some extra weight back. I am intending to gut the doors and replace the hood with a lighter glass hood (it has glass, but it's a heavy one). I was going to say 2,500 lbs, but I decided that was too light. I'm starting to think it's not too light.....(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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Jun 9 2007, 10:33 PM
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#44
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 9 2007, 09:19 AM) QUOTE (mitchntx @ Jun 8 2007, 10:24 PM) You planning on keeping a spare tire in there? Nope. I was thinking that I should cut the bracket out (unless there is a good reason not to) as well as many other brackets along the way. I don't have a spot weld cutter, but I probably should look into one. I intend to take out all of the brackets that I can since I won't be needing them. There's 35-40# of unused interior brackets - a sawzall will leave 10-20% of that plus ragged sharp edges. The spot weld cutter will get all of the metal out, and leave only minor burrs that are easy to smooth off with a flap disc. |
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Jun 10 2007, 02:46 AM
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#45
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Nothing says 'I love you.' like a box of Hydroshoks Group: Moderators Posts: 5,284 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Granbury, TX Member No.: 4 |
At a local hardware store, I found a carbide drill bit that had a point on it and then cutters on the outer edge.
Not sure if it is technically is a spot weld cutter, but it certainly does a number on them. Have to be careful not to go all the way through, though. cut a little, pry a little ... |
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Jun 10 2007, 03:06 AM
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#46
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 9 2007, 05:05 PM) TJ, Is that with a glass hood or the steel one? I've already got aluminum heads, but I've got a Stealth Ram intake so there's some extra weight back. I am intending to gut the doors and replace the hood with a lighter glass hood (it has glass, but it's a heavy one). I was going to say 2,500 lbs, but I decided that was too light. I'm starting to think it's not too light.....(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Fiberglass hood, a real flimsy one. I forgot to mention, the front bumper is made from 1.5" x .083" tubing (I think, can't remember what I ordered). Pretty much a copy of Randy's idea. Rear bumper will be getting replaced when life settles down a little. A lot of the build pics are in the link to my sig, make sure you look at '06 pics too. How much fabricating do you want to/can you do? I have ideas on how to remove another 50+ lbs from the front end but not the time or money right now. PS- lexan in the rear hatch removes 60+ lbs according to a buddy. One of the better $/lb ratios if you're going to spend money, too bad it's off the rear of the car. Not as much of a problem for a road race car vs. an autocrosser though. This post has been edited by nape: Jun 10 2007, 03:08 AM |
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Jun 11 2007, 03:08 AM
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#47
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 |
TJ, do you have a full exhaust or just something short?
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Jun 11 2007, 04:39 AM
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#48
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
Short. It's a 3" Dynomax bullet right on the end of the y-pipe with a turndown pointing out the side of the car. My exhaust hanger is a ~4" piece of 1" x 1/8" AL flat stock bolted to the pinch rail and muffler with 1/4-20 hardware, known as the ghetto hanger.
It's surprisingly quiet (but good) with the stock L98, it's one of the quieter cars on the AI grid. I can't wait to see how it sounds with a real motor. Pretty much everything has been done for weight. If it ain't light, it ain't right! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif) This post has been edited by nape: Jun 11 2007, 04:40 AM |
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Jun 11 2007, 03:34 PM
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#49
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Seeking round tuits Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 |
QUOTE (mitchntx @ Jun 9 2007, 10:46 PM) At a local hardware store, I found a carbide drill bit that had a point on it and then cutters on the outer edge. Not sure if it is technically is a spot weld cutter, but it certainly does a number on them. I think you may be describing a bit designed for glass. |
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Jun 23 2007, 05:15 AM
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#50
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Well, I'm still waiting on suspension stuff, so I decided to toss some of the extra weight that I wasn't going to need any longer.
As you can see, it got pretty serious for a little while. I had the dash out and I'd already removed the stuff under the hood (I need to get something to patch the holes with tomorrow). Quite an impressive pile for a little bit of work. And, I did bolt the dash back in tonight. I have to tie up or remove some of the stuff that's back there (like the cruise control module, etc) and wrap things up for now. I'm sure that more of it will come out later, but for now, I'm calling it good. At least I can reach things to work on them. I got a spot weld cutter from eastwood tonight. It seemed to cut well at first, but it didn't take long for me to find a way to dull it (I think), or I just got tired and it seemed dull afterwards? Either way, I'll give it another shot, but I think I might be in search of a better way.
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Jun 23 2007, 06:04 AM
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#51
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
I've never used the Eastwood cutter, but the one from Blair works excellent: http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cut...ld_Cutters.html
#13224 is what I have. You just have to be careful when you flip the cutter over after you break a tooth off. If you squeeze too hard you'll break the cutter. Mildly expensive, but worth their weight in gold over drilling through then having to fill. |
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Jun 23 2007, 10:44 AM
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#52
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 604 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 70 |
Kevin,
I'm sure your going to trailer the car to distant events, but are you going to use little trailer behind the car for local events? I have an old third gen hitch you can have for free if you want it. |
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Jun 23 2007, 01:36 PM
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#53
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (axoid @ Jun 23 2007, 06:44 AM) Kevin, I'm sure your going to trailer the car to distant events, but are you going to use little trailer behind the car for local events? I have an old third gen hitch you can have for free if you want it. Nah, I'll probably just drive it to local stuff. But I've got a draw bar that might fit your hitch that I'm trying to get rid of. Maybe we can make it a set for someone. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) |
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Jun 24 2007, 06:50 AM
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#54
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Patch panels are on the firewall. Autometer shift light is installed where the vent used to be. Autometer oil pressure warning light is installed under the dash. I pulled the heater bypass valve and all of the associated plumbing that was lumped in there with it.
I've still got a lot of work to do.
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Jun 24 2007, 12:24 PM
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#55
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,038 Joined: 29-December 03 From: Texas, USA Member No.: 62 |
<parts-hound hat = ON>
So...uh...Kevin, it looks GREAT! But I mean really, that ugly old airbag steering wheel, WOW that is ug-LEE...I'm sure you are going to get a nice wheel for it and when you do, just remember, I'm here for you. I'll take that old stock wheel so you don't have to worry about it ANYmore... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) that is, as long as the foam inside it hasnt broken down and made it feel like the outside of the wheel isnt attached to the inside. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Lookin good! Costas cars and such... |
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Jun 24 2007, 02:39 PM
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#56
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Costas,
That wheel was listed in several for sale threads. It's "leaving", I'm just not sure when. The leather sucks (worn through) and the air bag cover is a bit warped, but it's a real airbag wheel and if it's useful to you, send me a pm and let me know what it's worth and I'll see if a new wheel is in the budget yet. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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Jun 24 2007, 03:15 PM
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#57
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 997 Joined: 28-June 05 From: North Dallas, TX Member No.: 791 |
QUOTE (Shortcutsleeping @ Jun 24 2007, 07:24 AM) <parts-hound hat = ON> So...uh...Kevin, it looks GREAT! But I mean really, that ugly old airbag steering wheel, WOW that is ug-LEE...I'm sure you are going to get a nice wheel for it and when you do, just remember, I'm here for you. I'll take that old stock wheel so you don't have to worry about it ANYmore... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) that is, as long as the foam inside it hasnt broken down and made it feel like the outside of the wheel isnt attached to the inside. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Lookin good! Costas cars and such... Paul, Will a wheel out of a '96 work for you? Mine is coming out sometime this winter and it is still real decent. |
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Jun 24 2007, 03:53 PM
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#58
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
I'm noticing that the kid who originally owned/built this car was a real rocket scientist. The neutral safety switch was jumpered with one of those "golf keys". The little key with two prongs on it (I'm not a golfer, so I don't remember what it's for) and wrapped in electrical tape. The IAT wires have been extended, the ends were tinned with solder and plugged into the connector (just laying on the intake manifold.....you didn't do that did you Mike?). The cruise cut off switch (or clutch switch, not sure which one it was supposed to be) is just tied up under the dash and not installed into anything. The hole he cut for the clutch master cylinder in the firewall is about 50% larger than it should have been and I'm going to have to patch the firewall and make a new hole. It all works ok, but it is a less than ideal job. Other than that, and the random and misc. wires that seem to be everywhere, all is about normal. So, I'm doing a build up and clean up all in one shot.
I'm sure I'll find other stuff as I go along.(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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Jun 24 2007, 10:58 PM
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#59
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I suck at the auto-x :( Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,421 Joined: 21-April 05 From: TX Member No.: 727 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 24 2007, 10:53 AM) I'm noticing that the kid who originally owned/built this car was a real rocket scientist. The neutral safety switch was jumpered with one of those "golf keys". The little key with two prongs on it (I'm not a golfer, so I don't remember what it's for) and wrapped in electrical tape. The IAT wires have been extended, the ends were tinned with solder and plugged into the connector (just laying on the intake manifold.....you didn't do that did you Mike?). The cruise cut off switch (or clutch switch, not sure which one it was supposed to be) is just tied up under the dash and not installed into anything. The hole he cut for the clutch master cylinder in the firewall is about 50% larger than it should have been and I'm going to have to patch the firewall and make a new hole. It all works ok, but it is a less than ideal job. Other than that, and the random and misc. wires that seem to be everywhere, all is about normal. So, I'm doing a build up and clean up all in one shot. I'm sure I'll find other stuff as I go along.(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Sounds like a 3rd gen to me (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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Jun 25 2007, 01:45 AM
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#60
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,038 Joined: 29-December 03 From: Texas, USA Member No.: 62 |
Thanks, but a 96 won't work.
It's a 92, so for FStawk it has to have a 92 wheel in it. B4C2 has a wheel with the middle top all squishy and not really attached to the metal very good and it bugs me. Kevin, if your wheel is in decent shape (besides wear) and you are replacing it, then let me know. I don't need the airbag, just the wheel. Costas cars and such... |
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Jun 25 2007, 03:19 AM
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#61
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Mojave @ Jun 24 2007, 06:58 PM) Sounds like a 3rd gen to me (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Now that you mention it, most of them that I've worked on had similar issues in one way or another. Maybe they were factory options to keep the techs guessing??? QUOTE (Shortcutsleeping @ Jun 24 2007, 09:45 PM) Thanks, but a 96 won't work. It's a 92, so for FStawk it has to have a 92 wheel in it. B4C2 has a wheel with the middle top all squishy and not really attached to the metal very good and it bugs me. Kevin, if your wheel is in decent shape (besides wear) and you are replacing it, then let me know. I don't need the airbag, just the wheel. Costas cars and such... It's in decent shape and I will be pulling it (sooner or later) and it's "yours". It's solid, just ugly. More progress: The oil temp and oil pressure gauges are mounted. The oil pressure warning light is installed and hooked up (except it's not hooked to the sending unit because it's not easily reached behind a stealth ram (I'm still working on that part). The gauges even have lights that work and dim with the knob. The shift light is installed and fully functional. I removed the wiring harness that ran from the climate controls to the blower motor and AC compressor, etc. It's all gone and in a pile to sell for scrap. The car still starts, so it doesn't seem to miss any of it. I soldered the IAT wires properly. I moved the wideband O2 sensor display to the air vent above it's previous location and put the two new gauges under the air vents next to the pro lite oil pressure warning light. Oh, and the airbag sensors have been removed (crap, I just realized that I left the SIR warning light in the dash and put the dash panel back on and installed the headlight switch, guess I'll have to pull that apart and remove the bulb.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) ). And, I forgot the digital camera today, so I have no updated pics for tonight. |
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Jun 25 2007, 03:21 AM
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#62
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Scaring slow F body drivers with a VW diesel Group: Member Posts: 449 Joined: 23-June 04 From: Mt Gilead, Ohio Member No.: 376 |
Even I could not help getting that connector on. Well, at least your project is still running!
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Jun 26 2007, 05:31 AM
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#63
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
UPS brought me more toys and Jegs supplied the rest (I had to give them money, but either way, the stuff came from there).
The ground control stuff is here. The sponsor stickers are making their way onto the car. The power steering cooler has arrived (and I have hose for it too now). The steering wheel has been swapped out (Do you hear that Costas?).
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Jun 26 2007, 12:03 PM
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#64
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
QUOTE (nape @ Jun 23 2007, 01:04 AM) I've never used the Eastwood cutter, but the one from Blair works excellent: http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cut...ld_Cutters.html #13224 is what I have. You just have to be careful when you flip the cutter over after you break a tooth off. If you squeeze too hard you'll break the cutter. Mildly expensive, but worth their weight in gold over drilling through then having to fill. McMaster has the same thing for $16 - spare 3/8" cutters are 4093A35 $9.06ea Use a cutting oil, and first put a divot in the middle of the spot weld with a center punch - it will keep the bit from walking around. |
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Jun 26 2007, 12:23 PM
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#65
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 26 2007, 01:31 AM) UPS brought me more toys and Jegs supplied the rest (I had to give them money, but either way, the stuff came from there). The ground control stuff is here. The sponsor stickers are making their way onto the car. The power steering cooler has arrived (and I have hose for it too now). The steering wheel has been swapped out (Do you hear that Costas?). On the front weight jack, is there a thrust bearing between the upper mount and the bolt, or are those just big washers? I assume that it is not bolted tight, since the bolt needs to rotate relative to the mount. I should have bought the GC kit. I’m having trouble with my rears. |
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Jun 26 2007, 01:40 PM
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#66
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
It's not bolted tight. But I don't see any signs of a bearing. There might be a nylon piece or something in there. I'd have to look more closely.
Thanks Alan, I'll check them out. |
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Jun 26 2007, 04:21 PM
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#67
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 604 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 70 |
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Jun 26 2007, 06:23 AM) On the front weight jack, is there a thrust bearing between the upper mount and the bolt, or are those just big washers? I assume that it is not bolted tight, since the bolt needs to rotate relative to the mount. My set don't have a bearing and were bolted tight when I got them. I assumed that the idea is that the whole hat rotates in the spring pocket. But over time the bolt will lossen up and just the threaded shaft will turn. |
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Jun 26 2007, 04:59 PM
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#68
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 |
QUOTE (axoid @ Jun 26 2007, 12:21 PM) My set don't have a bearing and were bolted tight when I got them. I assumed that the idea is that the whole hat rotates in the spring pocket. But over time the bolt will lossen up and just the threaded shaft will turn. I tried having the bolt tight on my rear jacks and it got kinda hung up when adjusting. I'm going to try keeping the bolt a little loose but use loctite on the threads. |
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Jun 26 2007, 06:02 PM
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#69
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,038 Joined: 29-December 03 From: Texas, USA Member No.: 62 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 26 2007, 12:31 AM) (Do you hear that Costas?). Check goes out today! thanks! Costas cars and such... |
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Jun 26 2007, 06:48 PM
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#70
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Shortcutsleeping @ Jun 26 2007, 02:02 PM) QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 26 2007, 12:31 AM) (Do you hear that Costas?). Check goes out today! thanks! Costas cars and such... I'm glad to help out. |
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Jun 26 2007, 06:58 PM
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#71
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 209 Joined: 6-August 05 From: Cumberland, Md Member No.: 841 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 26 2007, 07:40 AM) It's not bolted tight. But I don't see any signs of a bearing. There might be a nylon piece or something in there. I'd have to look more closely. Thanks Alan, I'll check them out. If looking more closely entails disassembly..take more pictures. And if you could double check the size estimates posted in the other thread that would be awesome. Thanks for the pictures. http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9929 This post has been edited by slowcamaro: Jun 26 2007, 06:59 PM |
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Jun 26 2007, 07:41 PM
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#72
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
I'm not sure what they did for locktite and such, so I'm not planning to disassemble them. Actually, they are cheap enough that I can't justify making a set, but that's just me.
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Jun 26 2007, 09:52 PM
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#73
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,290 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 |
Please take pictures once you get the front weight jackers installed.
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Jun 27 2007, 07:07 PM
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#74
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Last night we installed the driveshaft (thanks Pimpmaro for the help) and started on the rear suspension. We hit a few snags and found that the rear LCA bolts were not too cooperative. Bubba353Z (who I bought the car from) is on vacation this week and I must thank him for taking time to run out and locate some proper replacement LCA bolts today while I was at work. Thanks Mike! We did get the rear springs and weight jacks installed. The rear jacks had to be modified to clear the reinforcing "plate" on the PHB end of the axle, Pimpmaro started on this with a bench grinder and then I attacked it with a chop saw. Once the rough cut was done, Garrett (pimpmaro) cleaned it up on the bench grinder. No problem.... We spent the rest of the night staring at the car and finally we worked out the location for the remote oil filter and power steering cooler.
Today, I'm expecting a box full of goodies from hotpart.com. I've got Camber plates coming, I've got their rear LCA's (heim/heim) to go on the car. I've got some shocks coming and I'm picking up one of their new (just released) swedged chromoly heim/heim PHB's. It's not welded and that removes the issues/concerns of welding and heat treating, etc. They simply swedge the end of the tubing down enough to tap it for the rod ends. I've seen photos of it and it looks very well done. I'm waiting on mine to arrive, when it does, I'll take photos and post some pics. I'll post pics of the other goodies after they arrive as well. Once all of that arrives, we'll have shocks to go with the springs and we can tear the front and rear down and get all of the stuff installed (brake kit, springs, rear sway bar, LCA's, etc). The car is currently on jackstands in my garage and it's prepped for me/us to get to work and see what we can accomplish tonight. |
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Jun 27 2007, 08:52 PM
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#75
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 |
You work pretty fast.
Is that swaged PHB steel or Alum? I've been thinking about this. I went with the Aluminum Coleman design but am concerned about the bending/compression stiffness. I can grab a hold of it and it wiggles pretty good. I larger OD would fix that. I'm planning to work on my PS cooler tonight as well. Where did you decide to place it? |
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Jun 27 2007, 09:38 PM
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#76
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Jun 27 2007, 04:52 PM) You work pretty fast. 8 days to Nashville (give or take), we have to work fast. QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Jun 27 2007, 04:52 PM) Is that swaged PHB steel or Alum? I've been thinking about this. I went with the Aluminum Coleman design but am concerned about the bending/compression stiffness. I can grab a hold of it and it wiggles pretty good. I larger OD would fix that. It is a Chromoly PHB. This has been an express "build" to make Nashville and almost everything has arrived here now. I'm still waiting on a radiator from Afco racing and some -10 hose, etc. Power steering cooler is probably going on the radiator support that runs up the center of the radiator (but out in front of it). That shouldn't impact the radiator function much and should get good airflow. I might move it later, who knows. |
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Jun 27 2007, 09:39 PM
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#77
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 |
QUOTE (StanIROCZ @ Jun 27 2007, 04:52 PM) You work pretty fast. Is that swaged PHB steel or Alum? I've been thinking about this. I went with the Aluminum Coleman design but am concerned about the bending/compression stiffness. I can grab a hold of it and it wiggles pretty good. I larger OD would fix that. I'm planning to work on my PS cooler tonight as well. Where did you decide to place it? In compression and tension the aluminum Coleman bar is more than stiff enough. It's on the order of only a few thousandths more deflection than a steel bar. |
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Jun 27 2007, 09:55 PM
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#78
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 997 Joined: 28-June 05 From: North Dallas, TX Member No.: 791 |
I can't wait to check out your car in NVille Kevin.
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Jun 27 2007, 09:56 PM
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#79
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (AndyJ @ Jun 27 2007, 05:55 PM) I can't wait to check out your car in NVille Kevin. I just hope it's not all still in boxes...... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) If it's in running shape (even if not done), I'm hoping to shake it down at an autocross this weekend. Just for testing purposes (on hard street tires). |
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Jun 27 2007, 10:00 PM
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#80
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Scaring slow F body drivers with a VW diesel Group: Member Posts: 449 Joined: 23-June 04 From: Mt Gilead, Ohio Member No.: 376 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 27 2007, 05:56 PM) If it's in running shape (even if not done), I'm hoping to shake it down at an autocross this weekend. Just for testing purposes (on hard street tires). Better get there by 7am or you will not get a spot! |
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Jun 27 2007, 10:29 PM
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#81
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (Mericet @ Jun 27 2007, 06:00 PM) QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 27 2007, 05:56 PM) If it's in running shape (even if not done), I'm hoping to shake it down at an autocross this weekend. Just for testing purposes (on hard street tires). Better get there by 7am or you will not get a spot! I'm guessing it's too late to register.... Oh well, if I'm going to make it (and I'm not still up and working on the car at 7am), I'll be there early. |
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Jun 27 2007, 11:32 PM
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#82
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 604 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 70 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 27 2007, 04:29 PM) I'm guessing it's too late to register.... No. It's still open until 6:00 pm CST tomorrow. |
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Jun 28 2007, 12:21 AM
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#83
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (axoid @ Jun 27 2007, 07:32 PM) QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 27 2007, 04:29 PM) I'm guessing it's too late to register.... No. It's still open until 6:00 pm CST tomorrow. Sweet. Struts and front "stuff" is apart. Back to the garage, more later. |
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Jun 28 2007, 03:23 AM
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#84
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Ok, the Hotpart camber plates are artwork, true artwork. This is a new design that allows for extra clearance around the master cylinder. I ran it against the stops and couldn't make it hit the master cylinder. Did I mention that these things are artwork?
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Jun 28 2007, 03:27 AM
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#85
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
The shocks arrived (also from Hotpart).
The remote oil filter is mounted (unless I change it, but I think I'm going to try it here first). The EB Miller brake kit parts came out of the box. We should have them installed tomorrow night.
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Jun 28 2007, 03:33 AM
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#86
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
The rear Koni's and Ground Control springs are in place.
The Hotpart LCA's are ready (with new hardware since the stuff on the car seems stuck) to be installed tomorrow. Pretty, aren't they? The front suspension is all apart, the stock brakes are off and the new Koni's are actually hanging in the camber plates so we can mate them with the new brake kit/spindle tomorrow evening. The inside of the car is a mess, it's full of tools and "stuff". I'll clean it up after we get the suspension on. The KYB's are out (I told you that these parts weren't on the car long, they look about new). And, I think I'm going to give up racing now that I've read the warning on this box for racing harnesses. Maybe I should change brands (to one that doesn't tell me that I will be injured or killed????). Now that's faith in your product..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)
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Jun 28 2007, 03:37 AM
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#87
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
Photos of the swedged chromoly PHB from Hotpart. I don't have mine yet, but here's what it looks like. I should have mine in a couple days (it's on the way). I'm anxious to lay my hands on it and get it under the car.
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Jun 28 2007, 04:33 AM
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#88
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CMCer Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 |
Which EB Miller brake kit did ya go with?
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Jun 28 2007, 11:15 AM
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#89
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (CMC #37 @ Jun 28 2007, 12:33 AM) Which EB Miller brake kit did ya go with? It was still in a box, my friend had bought it for the car and I got it with the car. It's the C4HD rotor/1LE caliper (basically Ford Cobra brakes) kit. It will work for now, I'll probably upgrade to Skulte Performance's wilwood kit in the future. |
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Jun 28 2007, 04:10 PM
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#90
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 592 Joined: 16-October 06 From: Logan, UT Member No.: 1,416 |
humm I might have to get some of the Hotparts camber plates for when I tear into the front end for the brake swap.. they do look SWEET !!!!
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Jun 28 2007, 04:50 PM
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#91
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (BumpaD_Z28 @ Jun 28 2007, 12:10 PM) humm I might have to get some of the Hotparts camber plates for when I tear into the front end for the brake swap.. they do look SWEET !!!! Dave, I've been around several camber plates (often on Mustangs, but some on 3rd gens) and these are the absolute nicest camber plates I've ever laid my hands on. I haven't seen them all, but the fit and finish on these are as good as any and better than most. I was very impressed when I pulled them out of the box. It's a brand new product from Hotpart (I was expecting the previous design when I ordered them) and so far, I really like them. |
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Jun 28 2007, 10:39 PM
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#92
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 28 2007, 06:15 AM) ... I'll probably upgrade to Skulte Performance's wilwood kit in the future. Skulte has a Wilwood kit? I've never noticed it on his website. |
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Jun 28 2007, 10:54 PM
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#93
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,290 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 |
Whew... I'm not an idiot since I couldn't find it!
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Jun 28 2007, 10:58 PM
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#94
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CMCer Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 |
QUOTE (slowTA @ Jun 28 2007, 05:54 PM) Whew... I'm not an idiot since I couldn't find it! Andris, we'd love to hear the details, please start another thread! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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Jun 28 2007, 10:59 PM
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#95
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
There's a thread around here where Andris just put 4 piston Wilwoods on his 3rd gen. I'm not sure it's a kit, but he did one for him and I was trying to talk him into making me some brackets to do mine. Maybe I should put it that way......(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Jun 28 2007, 11:00 PM
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#96
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
QUOTE (CMC #37 @ Jun 28 2007, 06:58 PM) QUOTE (slowTA @ Jun 28 2007, 05:54 PM) Whew... I'm not an idiot since I couldn't find it! Andris, we'd love to hear the details, please start another thread! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Geez Jules, you're getting slow..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) Here's the thread: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9467 |
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Jun 28 2007, 11:14 PM
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#97
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CMCer Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 28 2007, 06:00 PM) QUOTE (CMC #37 @ Jun 28 2007, 06:58 PM) QUOTE (slowTA @ Jun 28 2007, 05:54 PM) Whew... I'm not an idiot since I couldn't find it! Andris, we'd love to hear the details, please start another thread! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Geez Jules, you're getting slow..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) Here's the thread: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9467 (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/brick.gif) At least I am in good company! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) |
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Jun 29 2007, 04:48 AM
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#98
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
The good news is that most of the rear end is back together. I'm just waiting on the PHB which should arrive very shortly. I have to thank Garrett (Pimpmaro) for handling that job while we worked on the front end.
Garrett with his two favorite tools, a hammer and a screwdriver. Neither of which fit the rear suspension as I remember..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) When you install the weight jacks, the flat side goes up and the pigtail goes into the slot in the control arm. Then, make sure you line up the notch (weld "bump") with the gap in the spring. Stack it like so... Slide it up into the spring perch. And, lift the control arm into place with a small jack.
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Jun 29 2007, 04:56 AM
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#99
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
We had some trouble with the EB Miller brake kit and we're waiting to hear back from Ed. The PAB was hard into the rotor on both sides. It seemed that some washers were missing from the kit. We made some spacers for now, but I'm not real thrilled with it, so we'll see what Ed says. Either way, the front is all back together (including the sway bar).
And, in a moment of brilliance, I decided to screw the oil temp sender into the remote filter housing before anything fell into the filter. I'm glad it only took me two days to figure that out..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) Tomorrow evening we bleed brakes and I see if I can get it aligned on Saturday. If so, I think it's going autocrossing Sunday as a shakedown. Afco shipped my radiator with a built in oil cooler today. I hope to have it soon so I can get the oil lines made up. I also received my 3 quart accusump and mounting hardware. However, I ordered a regular manual valve and then ordered the remote valve kit that Alan Blaine showed us, so I've got a spare manual valve is anyone needs one. I'll get pics of those parts and post them in a later update. And, does anyone know where to get extra C (or E) clips for the calipers used in this kit? I'm sure I'll lose more than one and I'd like some spares. Off to bed!
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Jun 29 2007, 05:02 AM
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#100
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CMCer Group: Moderators Posts: 2,932 Joined: 12-February 04 From: the sticks near VIR Member No.: 194 |
Schweet! I'm really enjoying your project here Kevin! Thanks for sharing it with us....makes me pine away for the '91 Formula. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_driving3.gif)
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