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#1
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,099 Joined: 14-October 06 From: Mobile, Al Member No.: 1,410 ![]() |
Do I need both? I bought the UMI frame connectors and then came across a good deal on a Wolf 4 point and belts. It's a bolt in bar.
I wouldn't think I need both, but as always my ears are open. Weight is my enemy. |
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#2
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Nothing says 'I love you.' like a box of Hydroshoks ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Moderators Posts: 5,284 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Granbury, TX Member No.: 4 ![]() |
A bolt-in roll bar isn't going to attach to any real structural member.
And it's a lot of weight for a shoulder harness attachment point. Can't go wrong with UMI. |
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,099 Joined: 14-October 06 From: Mobile, Al Member No.: 1,410 ![]() |
A bolt-in roll bar isn't going to attach to any real structural member. And it's a lot of weight for a shoulder harness attachment point. Can't go wrong with UMI. Mitch, I really appreciate your steering me in the right direction. And don't stop giving me direction. The bar I bought is on here in the for sale section, a Wolf made from 1.750 dom. I have always had a fear of a roll over. I have a bar in my drag car also. These cars don't have much roof structure and mine has t tops. Besides its a good mount for a camera and a 5 point harness. Oh Yeh if the car ever gets on its lid it will come in handy. |
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#4
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
Oh Yeh if the car ever gets on its lid it will come in handy. Maybe...but you should see these pics first. http://forums.focaljet.com/team-pit-stop/6...-cage-fail.html (notice the bars sticking straight through the floor?) More here: http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17928 I'm not suggesting that these cars are Mustangs, etc. Just that you should evaluate anything you trust for safety and it's not a bad idea to err to the conservative side when in doubt. |
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#5
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,099 Joined: 14-October 06 From: Mobile, Al Member No.: 1,410 ![]() |
Oh Yeh if the car ever gets on its lid it will come in handy. Maybe...but you should see these pics first. http://forums.focaljet.com/team-pit-stop/6...-cage-fail.html (notice the bars sticking straight through the floor?) More here: http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17928 I'm not suggesting that these cars are Mustangs, etc. Just that you should evaluate anything you trust for safety and it's not a bad idea to err to the conservative side when in doubt. I read that the Mustang bar was put it without the sandwich plates on the underside of the car. That it wad a SEMA. Deal that ended up on track. |
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#6
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
In most cars, the bolt in 4pt bars are supported only by thin sheet metal in the rear seat footwell, and the rear wheelhouse. The 4th gen Fbody, tho, has a thick steel stamping that forms the rear LCA frame mount, and the Autopower 4pt main hoop is anchored on that thick steel. I don't know about the Wolfe, but their drag 4pt has a bend or 2 in the backstays, which is weaker than a straight tube. Neither Autopower or Wolfe have the backstays land in a good place.
A 4pt that is bolted to the thick LCA mount is a reasonable addition for a street/track car, and will anchor harnesses and seat. Needs high density padding, and may need some customization for correct harness angles. Rear seat should be removed, or otherwise disabled - people should never ride back there with the steel. A bolt in should not be welded in - there will be no improvement in strength, the welding will likely weaken the OEM sheet metal. This post has been edited by Blainefab: Apr 4 2011, 09:10 PM |
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#7
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Oh Yeh if the car ever gets on its lid it will come in handy. Maybe...but you should see these pics first. http://forums.focaljet.com/team-pit-stop/6...-cage-fail.html (notice the bars sticking straight through the floor?) More here: http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17928 I'm not suggesting that these cars are Mustangs, etc. Just that you should evaluate anything you trust for safety and it's not a bad idea to err to the conservative side when in doubt. I read that the Mustang bar was put it without the sandwich plates on the underside of the car. That it wad a SEMA. Deal that ended up on track. If that is true, I doubt that it would have made any difference if the backing plates were correctly installed - that area in a Mustang (and an STi, and an EVO, etc) is .030" thick sheet metal. The main hoop feet sliced thru it like a cookie cutter. Backing plates would have just been along for the ride. |
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#8
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Nothing says 'I love you.' like a box of Hydroshoks ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Moderators Posts: 5,284 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Granbury, TX Member No.: 4 ![]() |
These cars don't have much roof structure and mine has t tops. We cut the roof off of Glenn's race car to remove the cage and I was amazed at the web of heavy gauge sheets in the C pillar. Now, it doesn't have any cross bracing. But I bet a well placed horizontal member going from striker to striker and cross brace would give much more rigidity and roll over protection than a bolt-in 4-point. |
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