[BrianChevy]

Friends,

I am doing my off season upgrades and just finished calling Arlyn at Strano Parts and ordering my new Koni Yellow Shocks/Struts and my ES swaybar bushings. I thought I would ask a couple questions since I am going to start on this next monday .. (off work).

1) I expect to be able to do the Energy Suspension Kit for front and rear, i have a 34MM front Sway and 21MM rear Sway.
How difficult is this job? I want to take off the sway bars, sandblast them (18 years of rust and dirt), and paint them -- otherwise, is there anything I should worry about on this one?

2) I am likely going to tow the car over to Grand Tursimo East (here in Atlanta) and get the shocks/struts installed. That's NOT a job that I think I could HANDLE it besides, i will need a new alignment. Does anybody know what they charge, OR what the ballpark charge for a strut/shock install and alignment?

I am looking forward to the new handling characteristics of my '87 IROC and looking forward to my Evolution school here in Spring with Sam Strano so I can LEARN how to direct this new found control..

Brian LaRose
ATL SCCA
#18, ESP

[slowTA]

Pulling the sway bars can be a real chore because of the endlinks. I wound up turning them until the bolts broke right off, a breaker bar made short work of them. If the bolt wont slide all the way out of the sleeve then I recomend a sawzall. After that it shoud go fine.

As for the shocks and struts, they can be a pain but it is really straight forward. With a lift and all the right tools it shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 hours at the most. You'll laugh at how easy the rear shocks and springs come out. I only need a spring compressor on the front if I didn't get the spring index right on the install. Now that I know how to do it I was able to do struts, springs, swap the lower control arms for a set that already had fresh bushings and ball joints, sway bar bushings, brakes, and most of the steering in a full day. Figure $60 to $75 an hour?

Enjoy the new suspension.

[patred]

1)  I expect to be able to do the Energy Suspension Kit for front and rear, i have a 34MM front Sway and 21MM rear Sway.

Are you just doing the sway bar bushings or the entire ES "kit" (control arms, etc)? I think you need a press to do the control arm bushings ... the sway bar bushings are no problem. The front end links are likely rusted, but you can even get by that with a ratchet, wrench, elbow grease and a few swear words. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Just keep turning until the bolt snaps.

Yeah the rear shocks are easy. The only thing to worry about would be rust. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) I did the rear shocks on Karen's black 4th gen (basically the same as a 3rd gen) in my driveway in less than an hour. Can be done with jackstands and simple hand tools.

I don't think you need a spring compressor for the front shocks ... haven't changed them on my car, but it looks pretty straightforward. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) Two lower bolts then the upper nut on the shock. If anything, you could just do the rears yourself and have the shop do the fronts. I just hate to see anybody pay to have rear shocks put on an '82-'02 F Body. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) It's almost as easy as changing oil but less messy. Like I said, the only problem would be if the lower bolts are rusted to hell and you can't budge them.

[ESPCamaro]

If you have a sawzall I would go strait to cutting the endlinks off. EASY money. The sway bar bushings, again cake. Just remember to install anti-seize.

The rear shocks. Cake.
In front maybe a chain holding in the springs? Then you would simply unbolt the shock and install the new one. You wouldn't/won't have to compress the springs, just keep them from extending. I'd check with Sam, as you may not even have to do that on a 3rd gen...


Like Pat, I hate to see ANYONE throw money away on something easy enough. Save paying other people for the REALLY hassely stuff. Like daily driver exhaust. I just hate how much of a raping auto "repair" is in most cases.


You could pull it into the garage on a Friday, start working on it, and ask qeustions on here as you go. By the weekend you will have the experience necessary to do it as many times as you wish.

The first time I swapped sprigns and shocks, it took a buddy of mine, me and a 12 pack ALL DAY. Doesn't take quite so long anymore. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[trackbird]

On a 3rd gen. You must pull the sway bar endlinks (to change springs only, if you're doing sway bars at the same time and struts, even better), remove the caliper (and it may help to remove the rotor, but I won't say you "have" to do so), pull the 2 bolts out of the spindle that hold it to the shock (with a floor jack under the balljoint and the spring compressed when you do so). Once the bolts are removed, you can pull the strut from the top mount and drop it out (since you're likely changing it anyway) and then lower the jack (DO NOT stand right in front of the spring, on occasion they launch out of there and I don't want you getting hit by it), most springs can then be removed with a gentle pull on the coils (you may need to stand on the balljoint area to force the control arm down a little lower to make it easier to pull the springs out). Pull out the spring, replace the parts with the new parts and assemble.

NOTE: I've never used a spring compressor with any luck on the front of a 3rd gen. I'm not going to tell you that you shouldn't, just that I never have. Most 3rd gen front springs will just pop out once you have the A-arm pulled down out of the way, I've only ever had one that was difficult and I pryed it out with a 6 foot section of roll cage tubing and launched it several feet when it came loose (this is not safe or considered to be good form, do as I say, not as I've done). So, each car is different. The lowering springs are shorter than the ones you'll be removing and will be much easier to install than these are to remove. If you must, you could cut the spring in half with a sawzall and then pull out the 2 pieces once you do so, it may be safer than prying it out (if you have one of the softer springs that tend to be "longer" in free length and harder to remove). Or, find a suitable spring compressor and use it. That may be the best idea of all of them.

Be careful, springs can store enough energy to seriously injure or kill you or someone else. If you are not sure you are comfortable with the job, get qualified help. It's rare that I say that, but in this case, it applies.

The rear stuff is easy, do that yourself for sure.

Have fun and be safe.

[BrianChevy]

UPDATE on my progress.

Some GREAT news, some bad. First off, u were right. i was able to install the REAR KONI YELLOW with no problem. I was able to remove, sandblast the sway bar and begin installing it. I orginally thought I had a 21MM bar -- i ordered parts for a 21MM bar, but i think i actually have a 24MM bar. (that would match the 34MM bar up front).

I also pulled the differential cover, cleaned and checked the gears and changed the gaskets and fluid. I hope i get improved performance from my 3.45 rear end with the new fluids (Mobile Synthetic and additive)

I measured my sway bars but got the wrong size!!!
I just went out to buy a measuring tool to re-order. Apparently I have a 24MM bar, but I'll know for sure tonight. I hope arlyn at stranoparts will take my exchange (they are great up there). But otherwise the off season upgrades are going great!

I also moved the battery to the truck with an external ON/OFF switch. AND I have a question. Does anybody know the required LOCATION of the external shutoff switch on a CP car and on an AS car? I would like to install it properly so I am legal both ways. Is the top of the rear fender the "right place" ?

Any ideas on the switch location?

Brian

[Sam Strano]

Brian,

Most likely you have a 23mm rear bar. When you said you had a 34mm front I doubted you had a 21 rear (which is a 4th gen part only), which is why I asked if you were sure. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I can't exchange the bushings if they were opened, but luckily they are inexpensive *and* lots of folks have 21mm rear bars. I'd suggest putting them in classifieds. You'll get rid of them easily.

The only tool you need to measure is an adjustable wrench. Open it, slip over the bar, tighten it, take it off, measure the opening. Just make sure you are doing so on a straight part of the bar, not around a curve. When you confirm the bar size, let me know and we'll get you the bushings you need.

And get those front struts on!!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[BrianChevy]

Sam,

YOU WERE RIGHT! I was wrong -- bet you've never heard that before. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Anyway, I bought the MM gap tool, i'll check it tonight and call you for the right ones.. I measured with a wrench, but I must have messed up on the rear bar...

Damn -- ALWAYS have the right tool for the job, eh?

I'll call you later!

Any ideas on the external shutoff switch?

Brian