Problems, solutions, and observations - F-Body Road Racing and Autocross Forums

First off, this is intended as confession and comment not as complaint or car bashing.

Experienced a "marbles rattling in a can" noise at a Watkins Glen HPDE. Came in and inspected the car- no visible signs of trouble. Left the track and encountered the same noise on decelleration (usually downhill). On 3rd occurrance, coming to a STOP sign, the motor quit, check gauges was displayed and starter would not turn the motor over. Suspected blown clutch. On a lift with a good light holes in the upper part of the bell housing were visible. Clutch diagnosis seemed probable. However, disassembly revealed that one of the Trans to Bellhousing bolts had worked itself loose and had been flung about the inside of the bellhousing eventually jamming between the flywheel teeth and the starter gear. Bellhousing, pressure plate, clutch disk, and starter were all damaged by the bolt and related shrapnel.

When replacing the damaged parts we ran into the traditional problem with bleeding the clutch hydraulic system. After numerous lengthy and unsuccessful pumping/bleeding efforts, my wife finally solved the problem by manually pulling up the clutch pedal before trying to once again pump the pedal. Two such applications produced a quick and successful bleeding of the system.

Road testing of the "repaired car" produced horrible tinny squealing/growling noises when the car hit bumps. A thorough inspection of the driveshaft, torque arm and exhaust system showed no evidence of any contact. We carefully clearanced all the components and "checked everything". The noise remained. Drained and inspected the diff and axles. No issues found. Finally, during reassembly we noticed that the left rear parking brake ring was extremely loose and was apparently bouncing out of place and binding when the car hit bumps. We traced the cause of this condition to the fact that the parking brake was heavily used when loading the car on the tow truck and when removing the console to access the shifter. As a result, the ring was fairly loose and out of adjustment. The noises were the results of the ring moving inside the drum and stopped when the rotation of the drum re-seated the ring. After adjusting the ring's tension all noises ceased.

This post will hopefully help someone avoid some of the confusion and frustration we experienced in repairing the car. Track cars- gotta love 'em! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rant2.gif)

jensend View Member Profile	Oct 22 2007, 02:30 AM Post #1
Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 501 Joined: 15-February 04 Member No.: 210	First off, this is intended as confession and comment not as complaint or car bashing. Experienced a "marbles rattling in a can" noise at a Watkins Glen HPDE. Came in and inspected the car- no visible signs of trouble. Left the track and encountered the same noise on decelleration (usually downhill). On 3rd occurrance, coming to a STOP sign, the motor quit, check gauges was displayed and starter would not turn the motor over. Suspected blown clutch. On a lift with a good light holes in the upper part of the bell housing were visible. Clutch diagnosis seemed probable. However, disassembly revealed that one of the Trans to Bellhousing bolts had worked itself loose and had been flung about the inside of the bellhousing eventually jamming between the flywheel teeth and the starter gear. Bellhousing, pressure plate, clutch disk, and starter were all damaged by the bolt and related shrapnel. When replacing the damaged parts we ran into the traditional problem with bleeding the clutch hydraulic system. After numerous lengthy and unsuccessful pumping/bleeding efforts, my wife finally solved the problem by manually pulling up the clutch pedal before trying to once again pump the pedal. Two such applications produced a quick and successful bleeding of the system. Road testing of the "repaired car" produced horrible tinny squealing/growling noises when the car hit bumps. A thorough inspection of the driveshaft, torque arm and exhaust system showed no evidence of any contact. We carefully clearanced all the components and "checked everything". The noise remained. Drained and inspected the diff and axles. No issues found. Finally, during reassembly we noticed that the left rear parking brake ring was extremely loose and was apparently bouncing out of place and binding when the car hit bumps. We traced the cause of this condition to the fact that the parking brake was heavily used when loading the car on the tow truck and when removing the console to access the shifter. As a result, the ring was fairly loose and out of adjustment. The noises were the results of the ring moving inside the drum and stopped when the rotation of the drum re-seated the ring. After adjusting the ring's tension all noises ceased. This post will hopefully help someone avoid some of the confusion and frustration we experienced in repairing the car. Track cars- gotta love 'em! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rant2.gif)

GM01SS View Member Profile	Oct 22 2007, 02:02 PM Post #2
Nitto Destroyer! Group: Advanced Members Posts: 248 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Rochester NY Member No.: 29	Dennis............wondered where you went! Not that you missed anything but alot of rain!!! I have had a similar situation..............had a small piece of metal hanging ( lol) out of the inspection area of the bellhousing...........found that one of the springs from the PP decided to come apart and would make a noise on occasion. To add insult to injury (that's racin!!) put in a new PP clutch all new hydralics and bellhousing ( expensive!). Within 100 miles had a niose (tinney, rattaling kind of noise) Had a good friend and great all around mechanic take it apart ( I was convince I F/U something and found a weight for the pressure plate (NEW) had come off and was rattiling around ( and DESTROYING my new bellhousing!) Total cost ( we reused the bellhousing, I was not buying another @ $350.00) New clutch ( twice!) about $2000.00 Now I could have put in a new GM everything for around $600.00 (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) Just my luck!