[Absolut Speed]

I had the coil-overs put in Friday. I put new pads and rotors in over the weekend. Scheduled an alignment and brake flush for today.

Just got a call that the car is too low to get on the alignment rack or even on the hoist to do the brake bleed. I asked how much clearance they were short, explained the coil overs, but the service advisor told me the owner said to park the car and not touch it.

So I start calling around in my smaller city and am having no luck finding someone who can get a car with a lowered stance. GM dealer says he has a hard time with stock vehicles with running boards, so he can't help. Big tire chain says they can't do the brale bleed, and they want $89.99 for a custom alignment.

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[ESPCamaro]

[quote=Cal,Apr 21 2004, 05:14 PM]

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) [/QUOTE]
ESP, nice description of doing a home performance wheel alignment! I'm going to try that. I believe I understand the theory behind setting the camber and toe-in for handling, but how does caster play into it? (hope it's OK to piggy back onto this thread) [/quote]
Sorry Cal I missed this post.

Caster has a self centering effect. And I guess it can make your car follow ruts and what not.
As far as I can tell, that is very tire dependant. On cheasy street tires I don't follow ruts much. On race tires (just to the gas station or something) it follows ruts BAD, and you have to hang on tight.

Caster as a performance alignment setting....As you increase Positive caster you will also Increase Negative camber, as the wheel is turned. I would prefer more positive caster. In tight autox turns, you want the most negative camber in the tight turns-the turns when the wheel is turned the most.

As it is (because it's all I can get) I have -1.9 on one side -1.7 on the other, caster was around 4.4, and I use 3/16 toe OUT.

If more were available I would run -2.1 camber, and 5.5 caster. Probably keep the toe the same.