[ledfoot2]

I talked to them and they have a 10 point DOM cage that would be NASA legal for 499 plus 160 for shipping. It is not complete. IT does not have petty bars for the door or some smaller bracing that I would add, but everything is notched and ready to go.

Any thoughts?

[00 Trans Ram]

Let's see - first off, good info about the ERW vs. DOM - I'd forgotten that detail. That would definitely come back and bite someone.

However, I installed the first part of my cage (roll bar) and got it inspected by SCCA prior to 1/1/03. SCCA GCR says, "Note: ERW tubing is not permitted in any car registered with SCCA after of 01/01/2003." So, I'm good there.

Secondly, I have both a thicker wall and a larger diameter than the minimum required (1.5x.120). Drawing on Stan's post above, and regular logic, a thicker wall will resist bending better than a thinner wall. Also, a thicker wall will resist bending better after it is already bent (think a secondary impact from a car after you've hit the wall). And, the larger diameter will definitely resist initial bending better than a smaller one.

Oh, and I also used the "Jegs" stuff for the main hoop, rear bars, halo, and front down bars. The door bars, T/A brace and dash bar are actually 1.625 x .1875 thickness.

Finally, if anyone ever buys my car, they can't do a thing to me if they wreck it. It's a "race car". Half the street cars on used car lots have disclaimers saying that there is "no warranty on this car, implied or expressesd". I certainly ain't got no warranty on my race car! If you buy it, and you race it, and you wreck it - it's no longer my problem. I mean, I hate that someone may get hurt. But, my car was built to the rules when it was built. You can't expect to go buy a '66 Mustang vintage Trans Am racer and expect it to have modern safety equipment.

But, I think we can all agree that my method for "building a cage on the cheap" won't work anymore. Best to get someone to do it for you.