[GlennCMC70]

there is no 220V service in my garage - thats about to change.

i picked up a 250V 30A outlet (3 slots arranged in a circle w/ one looking like a "L") which matches the plug on the welder.
i have a 30A breaker that takes up two slots in the breaker panel for the house (located in the garage!)
i have some new 10 gauge 3 conductor wire (black, white, and green conductors).
snap the breaker in place - make sure its switched off.
install a black and white conductor in one of the two set screw slots in the 30A breaker.
connect the other ends of the black/white to the outlet and the ground to the ground on the back of the outlet and inside the breaker panel (metal box).


to be honest here, the only thing i know about A/C electricity is it can kill you. other than that, i don't know jack. i can replace a bad outlet/socket/switch, but i couldnt wire any 110v circuit from the box to the wall if i had to.

so does the above sound right? i know there should normally be a red wire to use in place of the white, but i've read thats really only required for 4 prong plug/outlets.

looking for the FRAXX guidance here oh wise one's. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

[Torque]

Not an electrician but I can tell you how I most recently ran my 30 amp 220 and 50 amp 220 in my recent remodel (as I was guided to by my electrician). For 30 amp, I was told to use 10-3. The 10-3 Romex I used has an orange outer sleeve and contains 4 wires. 1- Neutral- white, 1- Red and 1- black (both hot) and 1- bare ground. The way I understand it, any 220 has 2 hot leads and one neutral. What concerns me is if I read what you posted correctly, you are hooking up 2 hot leads to the breaker (one to each of the 30-amp dual breakers) and you are either hooking up the neutral to the ground or you are not using a neutral.... or not using a ground. You should have 2 hot wires (I believe one to each breaker) a neutral (white) to the neutral bus bar and the green or bare goes to ground. Sounds like you are using an ungrounded receptacle (3 prong) which would only have 2 hots and a neutral. If this is the case, you may be hooking the neutral to the neutral bus bar and calling it ground which is ok but you'll not be properly grounded as most current code would require. If you can, I'd get the 4 prong 30 amp receptacle (the 30 amp also has an L shaped prong, the 50's do not) which should allow you to properly ground. You'd have the 2 hots going to the breakers (red and black), the white to neutral bus bar and the green/bare to ground.

Romex can be run through studs and I suggest using the nailing plates to cover them so you don't accidentally find them with a drywall screw, etc. down the road. With Romex, my local code does not require them to be pulled through any metal shielding indoors. Obviously, check local codes by you to ensure you are ok.

Hope this helps.