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#1
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Member Posts: 2,688 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Ft Worth, TX Member No.: 8 ![]() |
there is no 220V service in my garage - thats about to change.
i picked up a 250V 30A outlet (3 slots arranged in a circle w/ one looking like a "L") which matches the plug on the welder. i have a 30A breaker that takes up two slots in the breaker panel for the house (located in the garage!) i have some new 10 gauge 3 conductor wire (black, white, and green conductors). snap the breaker in place - make sure its switched off. install a black and white conductor in one of the two set screw slots in the 30A breaker. connect the other ends of the black/white to the outlet and the ground to the ground on the back of the outlet and inside the breaker panel (metal box). to be honest here, the only thing i know about A/C electricity is it can kill you. other than that, i don't know jack. i can replace a bad outlet/socket/switch, but i couldnt wire any 110v circuit from the box to the wall if i had to. so does the above sound right? i know there should normally be a red wire to use in place of the white, but i've read thats really only required for 4 prong plug/outlets. looking for the FRAXX guidance here oh wise one's. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif) |
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#2
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 108 Joined: 10-August 07 Member No.: 1,886 ![]() |
Thanks for the explanation on Romex. The melting wire having the metal conduit as a shield/last grounding resort makes a lot of sense. Hopefully with the way they have codes these days with all the new circuits I installed (one for fridge, one for dishwasher, one for disposal, one for range hood, one for the microwave, 2 for lighting, 2 for outlets in the kitchen alone), seems like I'd be challenged to overload the romex by having it close to impossible to oversubscribe.
Now I just worry about the remaining knob and tube wiring in the rest of the house ;-) |
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