[GlennCMC70]

there is no 220V service in my garage - thats about to change.

i picked up a 250V 30A outlet (3 slots arranged in a circle w/ one looking like a "L") which matches the plug on the welder.
i have a 30A breaker that takes up two slots in the breaker panel for the house (located in the garage!)
i have some new 10 gauge 3 conductor wire (black, white, and green conductors).
snap the breaker in place - make sure its switched off.
install a black and white conductor in one of the two set screw slots in the 30A breaker.
connect the other ends of the black/white to the outlet and the ground to the ground on the back of the outlet and inside the breaker panel (metal box).


to be honest here, the only thing i know about A/C electricity is it can kill you. other than that, i don't know jack. i can replace a bad outlet/socket/switch, but i couldnt wire any 110v circuit from the box to the wall if i had to.

so does the above sound right? i know there should normally be a red wire to use in place of the white, but i've read thats really only required for 4 prong plug/outlets.

looking for the FRAXX guidance here oh wise one's. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

[Machine]

2 things that I was thinking regarding your application:

Do the most recent codes still allow you to mark a white wire as a hot wire (taped black, for instance)? I think you mentioned using a white as hot in your first post.

Welders I believe are notoriously hard on electrical systems. I would go out of my way to assure good grounds (wire it back to the panel).

[nape]

Do the most recent codes still allow you to mark a white wire as a hot wire (taped black, for instance)? I think you mentioned using a white as hot in your first post.

All wires must be the correct color up to and including 8ga wire. After that, you're allowed to distinguish with phasing tape. However, I doubt he'll get dinged on a pre-sale inspection (likely the only inspection that would ever take place). Most inspectors (even city/municipality) aren't that thorough.

It is a safety issue to phase one of the hots Black and the other Red. The phasing tape ought to at least clue in the clueless that it's not 110v.

Welders I believe are notoriously hard on electrical systems. I would go out of my way to assure good grounds (wire it back to the panel).

That isn't necessary. The ground will only see voltage and current in a fault situation. The only two conductors that will see anything will be the two hots with 220v. If Romex, make sure your splices are good. If pipe, make sure all your locknuts and set screws are firmly tightened and you're safe... unless you ran any greenfield in the system, then you should run a ground wire as best practice and by code if over 6'.

AC and DC are two different animals when you start talking terminology... which is why I hate talking with electrical engineers and factory reps who's first language wasn't English (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

This post has been edited by nape: Nov 12 2008, 11:30 PM