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#1
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
I'd like to try and sell this as a local pickup item at first-then I'll consider shipping.
I have an LG Harness bar that's been painted black. The bolt tabs have been cut off the bar on the driver's side since they interfered with a wrap-around harness (nor were they ideally located for a bolt-in one IMHO). $150 Pics to come tonight. Located near Louisville, KY robmeadway@gmail.com |
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#2
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,640 Joined: 25-December 03 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 40 ![]() |
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#3
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 21-January 09 Member No.: 3,757 ![]() |
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#4
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 111 Joined: 21-April 05 From: McKinney, TX Member No.: 726 ![]() |
Doesn't anyone have the dimensions, drawings, etc for this bar because I might be interested in building it myself..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
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#5
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 274 Joined: 26-March 04 Member No.: 289 ![]() |
Doesn't anyone have the dimensions, drawings, etc for this bar because I might be interested in building it myself..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) Can't help ya on that one... I have a vert. Convertibles use a seatbelt mount that is more towards the center of the vehicle, and the tower that surrounds them is easy to remove. I've considered a bolt-in roll bar design using the those for rear mounts, and welding on plates/peg for the hoop. No it wouldn't pass SCCA, NHRA, or most any other tech, but it would allow me to set up the bar as I wanted, see how it's like to drive without a rear seat, and then perma-weld it if I liked it. this "was" a daily driver until the engine rebuild. With the new engine and exhaust its not exactly a cruiser anymore, and I realistically think the bars would be more likely to find "use" for them. The REASON for a bolt-in 4-point would be solely for this: Driving schools. Local lapping days and driving schools require a 4-point for any car with decent balls... 500hp qualifies. As a result, I've given this more consideration. If I can bolt one in to secure a 5-point harness, qualify as a 4-point bar, and help tie-in my vert's chasis a bit more on lapping/instruction days, it may be worth it. I'll probably end up with a 10-sec NHRA 6-point with removable swing outs and SCCA lower-runner bar if the car gets offical "toy" status... but a bolt-in bar gives me options for daily use while just taking lessons and resale in the future (I imagine a bolt-in bar would be a selling point to the average buyer, while a welded-in permanent bar would be a deal breaker for most). And yes, I really have used my rear seats on the rare occasion. I'm still of the opinion though that a welded plate and peg could be anchored inside the rear plastic covers if done right... but it'd require either cutting a hole in the covers, or fabricating a "custom" fiberglass cover to replace the stock one (which would have the added benefit of eliminating the speaker grills and maybe welding a plate over the speaker hole) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 23rd May 2025 - 11:09 PM |