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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 241 Joined: 20-August 07 From: Central NJ Member No.: 1,907 ![]() |
In getting my 97 3/4 ton Dodge ready for the coming season I thought I'd do front brakes and that turned into more front end work. But I was amazed at the size of the front hub assemblies. And to think this Timken bearing (8800lb suspension, with the big CTD sitting on top of it) with new studs (8 of them) is only $145 (fleabay), compared to the hubs for our cars which are 1/4 the size and contain 1/6 the material and only last for a few months for $100. I think this hub is about the same size and weight as a diff for a stock 10-bolt.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1qwikbird/3363597393/ Thought it was funny..... |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 919 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Northern NY Member No.: 66 ![]() |
You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!
John |
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#3
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 241 Joined: 20-August 07 From: Central NJ Member No.: 1,907 ![]() |
You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!! John Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it. This post has been edited by 1qwikbird: Mar 19 2009, 01:35 AM |
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#4
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 919 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Northern NY Member No.: 66 ![]() |
You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!! John Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it. Chris I will look into doing that on the next one I get through the door. John |
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