[1qwikbird]

In getting my 97 3/4 ton Dodge ready for the coming season I thought I'd do front brakes and that turned into more front end work. But I was amazed at the size of the front hub assemblies. And to think this Timken bearing (8800lb suspension, with the big CTD sitting on top of it) with new studs (8 of them) is only $145 (fleabay), compared to the hubs for our cars which are 1/4 the size and contain 1/6 the material and only last for a few months for $100. I think this hub is about the same size and weight as a diff for a stock 10-bolt.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1qwikbird/3363597393/

Thought it was funny.....

[Ojustracing]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

[1qwikbird]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

This post has been edited by 1qwikbird: Mar 19 2009, 01:35 AM

[Ojustracing]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

Chris I will look into doing that on the next one I get through the door.

John

[CamaroFS34]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

Chris I will look into doing that on the next one I get through the door.

John

I usually just put a dab of antiseize on my hubs, where the ABS sensor piece goes through the knuckle. It still takes a couple of whacks with the BFH, but nothing like what you described, John.