Trashed clutch - F-Body Road Racing and Autocross Forums

Went to a PCA time trial yesterday. Got a good number of time trial runs in. on my last session I noticed shifting into fourth was a bit notchy. Then later I had trouble even getting it into 4th, once I even ground the gears pretty good.
Then after my last run I pulled off to run down the road for a cool down and I heard some strange noises as I was down shifting into 2nd while having trouble w/ the shift. When I stopped and tried to go into first it wouldn't go into gear, it wasn't disengaging the clutch. 2nd wasn't much better. I could turn the car off and put it in 1st, put the clutch in, and then start it. Trying to slip the clutch made a horrible noise and the car had very little power. After much trial and tribulation I finally limped it home. 200 mile trip pulling my tire trailer from mineral wells to austin. good thing I learned clutchless shifting in my a friends POS Aspire. After this I am seriously looking into getting a tow vehicle. I was quoted $450+ tow esimates!
Anyway, the sheet metal center section of the spring hub disc hand torn. I think some debris also got between the disc and pressureplate/flywheel causing disengagement problems
see here

http://tinyurl.com/3yest

flywheel & pressure plate both quite a bit of heat spotting. 30K miles of hard auto-x and some time trials and lapping sessions thrown in.

Anyone know the minimum spec thickness for an LT1 flywheel after resurfacing?

y5e06 View Member Profile	Jun 7 2004, 01:48 AM Post #1
Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 951 Joined: 2-January 04 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 88	Went to a PCA time trial yesterday. Got a good number of time trial runs in. on my last session I noticed shifting into fourth was a bit notchy. Then later I had trouble even getting it into 4th, once I even ground the gears pretty good. Then after my last run I pulled off to run down the road for a cool down and I heard some strange noises as I was down shifting into 2nd while having trouble w/ the shift. When I stopped and tried to go into first it wouldn't go into gear, it wasn't disengaging the clutch. 2nd wasn't much better. I could turn the car off and put it in 1st, put the clutch in, and then start it. Trying to slip the clutch made a horrible noise and the car had very little power. After much trial and tribulation I finally limped it home. 200 mile trip pulling my tire trailer from mineral wells to austin. good thing I learned clutchless shifting in my a friends POS Aspire. After this I am seriously looking into getting a tow vehicle. I was quoted $450+ tow esimates! Anyway, the sheet metal center section of the spring hub disc hand torn. I think some debris also got between the disc and pressureplate/flywheel causing disengagement problems see here http://tinyurl.com/3yest flywheel & pressure plate both quite a bit of heat spotting. 30K miles of hard auto-x and some time trials and lapping sessions thrown in. Anyone know the minimum spec thickness for an LT1 flywheel after resurfacing?

CamaroFS34 View Member Profile	Jun 7 2004, 07:49 PM Post #2
Green Terror Group: Advanced Members Posts: 612 Joined: 31-January 04 From: Western Maryland Member No.: 175	QUOTE (y5e06 @ Jun 7 2004, 11:20 AM) I used a pilot bushing from the autoparts store, which by the way was over halfworn. More than the original (?) was at 100K miles. The replacement bushing you speak of, is it the roller bearing as opposed to the bushing? The GM replacement for all bushings (diff cars/trucks) seems to be this roller bearing. I actually have one, I just went w/ the bushing thinking it would be more reliable. I can't see how a bearing would survive in there w/ no added lubrication and all that extra clutch debris/dust. My brother calls it a "needle bearing," but, yeah, I think it's the same thing. He said the bushing gets worn out, and allows for a more "elliptical path" of travel. I haven't replaced the bearing, and it's been in there now for almost 150K. Karen