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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 412 Joined: 26-August 09 From: Mathews Va Member No.: 6,032 ![]() |
Hey everyone quick question.I hope you can help me make up my mind.I have a bone stock 89RS with an auto.It was a freebie.Should I build that or: I have seen on this site and on CMC a car (I believe it was a 95 Z28) That has some work done to it 13x,xxx miles on it for $5000.You probably know what car it is.The only problem is it will cost $17 - $1900 to ship cause the car is literally across the country (Car is at Cali. coast and I am at Va. coast).I have not done any math to see if I would come out ahead any if I buy versus build to get mine close to what this is. Future plans are keep auto xing,finish hpde's and finish building on my way to CMC.Thanks for your input.
Mitch if you see this I wish I could take you up on your offer about sending it too you to make it CMC legal.But Texas is pretty far too. |
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#2
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
Hey everyone quick question.I hope you can help me make up my mind.I have a bone stock 89RS with an auto.It was a freebie. My car isn't done yet, but (engine and all, not counting the actual price of the car) there is probably over $20,000 (sadly) invested in my 3rd gen (I'm going AI and not CMC, CMC may save you $8k in engine parts). There's about $2,500+ in parts stacked in the corner right now, it also has a $500 clutch, full rear end rebuild and new limited slip (probably $1,500 or so), glass hood, lexan windsheild ($275), all the cage parts, $700 in a race seat, Koni's and full suspension, brakes, etc. And this doesn't even count the tools I bought during the build (Mig, Tig, tubing notcher, air compressor, etc). It's NEVER EVER EVER cheaper to build a car. (And you'll likely have or buy those tools anyway...eventually). Anyway, without getting into a full accounting lesson... Go buy something that's COMPLETE (or very nearly so). Race cars are trading for pennies on the dollar right now. Or, buy the one Alan has listed, take a helmet and drive it home (once he finishes the cage in it), gut the rest once you get home and you're "there". Edit: As Mitch said, assuming it's a legal build that's reasonably well constructed....then BUY! We have some horror stories on this board about cars that were not legal and cost a good bit to straighten out the mess. |
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,528 Joined: 13-January 07 From: Solebury, Pa. Member No.: 1,589 ![]() |
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#4
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
Koni's and full suspension, brakes, etc. Kevin; Are those Koni Sports, or an alloy body, threaded, coilover, (remote reservoir?) Koni racing damper? I threw 3/3 Koni SA's on it. Nothing too special right now, just some ground control springs/perches on all 4 corners and yellow Koni's. |
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