[Eskimo]

My VW R32 driving buddy (also an experienced motorcycle track day guy like me) has been bugging me about taking the T/A up to one of those 2 tracks this year for a track day. I'm leaning towards it, but am a little nervous about the car.

Currently:
Strano springs/koni's/36mm Strano front sway, 1LE rear sway.
Brembo 4-pot calipers F (CTS-V), C6 Z06 rotors (14"), stock pads/calipers/rotors rear, Ate SuperBlue fluid (fresh)
Stock driveshaft, 10 bolt, T2R diff, 4.10 GM gears.
Poly motor/trans bushings, homemade LCA's (solid rubber chassis end, UMI roto-joint axle end)
BMR full-length torque arm, still attached to trans.

Motor makes 405rwhp, 140k miles on it.

18x9.5" front, 265/45 Michelin PS2, 19x11 rear, 305/30 Michelin PS2, on SSR wheels.

That's about all I can think of for now... My question is what do I absolute NEED before the track day, and what would make life much better, but not mandatory? (i.e. cage, better seats, harnesses, etc.)

He feels that I'm good to go with what I've got, but my car weighs about the same and is about twice as powerful as his...

[cccbock]

My VW R32 driving buddy (also an experienced motorcycle track day guy like me) has been bugging me about taking the T/A up to one of those 2 tracks this year for a track day. I'm leaning towards it, but am a little nervous about the car.

Currently:
Strano springs/koni's/36mm Strano front sway, 1LE rear sway.
Brembo 4-pot calipers F (CTS-V), C6 Z06 rotors (14"), stock pads/calipers/rotors rear, Ate SuperBlue fluid (fresh)
Stock driveshaft, 10 bolt, T2R diff, 4.10 GM gears.
Poly motor/trans bushings, homemade LCA's (solid rubber chassis end, UMI roto-joint axle end)
BMR full-length torque arm, still attached to trans.

Motor makes 405rwhp, 140k miles on it.

18x9.5" front, 265/45 Michelin PS2, 19x11 rear, 305/30 Michelin PS2, on SSR wheels.

That's about all I can think of for now... My question is what do I absolute NEED before the track day, and what would make life much better, but not mandatory? (i.e. cage, better seats, harnesses, etc.)

He feels that I'm good to go with what I've got, but my car weighs about the same and is about twice as powerful as his...

You have way more car than most of us did when we started...which is to say be careful starting out.

You noted that you have "fresh" brake fluid but unless you bled the entire system in the past week, I would recommend doing it again before the event. Some upgraded track pads would be advisable. The ATE fluid is OK for what you are doing. I'm not familiar with pad availability for the CTS caliper, but some hawk HPS would be nice for the rears. HP Plus for the fronts.

Based solely on your description above, your car sounds like it is probably really nice and kept up nicely for the street. I would consider trying to find some wheels/tires to use for this event rather than mess up yours with brake dust, or maybe worse if you have an "off track" excursion, which is a definite possibility with your first event. probably will need 17inch minimum, maybe even 18's. I presume you know what will fit. You will likely find it easy to outdrive the street tires within just a few laps, so take it easy.

Making the assumption you have a 6 speed, with your power, your 4.10 gear is too low for road racing in my opinion. watch your revs closely because with the power you have and street tires, you will be breaking the rear loose at most corners, even assuming the T2R is working properly.

The best advice i ever got in the beginning was just this: If they offer instruction, take all you can get, then ask for more. Be an instructor hog. Made HUGE differences to me.

Seats, harnesses, etc. all come later if you decide you really like doing this....which you will!

Good luck and have fun.

bock