[FASTFATBOY]

I recently bought a car to start trackdays and Autox. Its a 99 Z28 with Strano Springs, 1LE front bar stock rear bar. Koni Da on front Sa on rear. Spohn LCA in rear with the matching PHB(Poly bushings). Poly bushings in all swaybar mounts. Totally rebuilt suspension in front.

The fronts are set 4 clicks from full soft on compression, havent checked rebound. Havent checked the rears they are all supposed to be out of the box installed.


I have been feeling the car out, I recently pushed it on an off ramp near home, car has good grip but if you hit a bump with it loaded it WILL get your attention. Car is all over the place you immediately start fighting the car. Its done it 3 times now.

No bumpsteer kit on the car for reference.

How do you adjust the SA rears? How do you adjust rebound on the front DA?

[Blainefab]

For a mostly street car, I'd use poly one end/rod end the other rear LCA's. For a mostly track car I'd use rodends both ends. For either use, the panhard is best with rod ends both ends.

A new Moog caster bushing was in the link you posted, if all that new stuff is on the car, properly installed and with tightened fasteners you're in pretty good shape - what I don't see are tie rod ends, they go about 90K mi with street use, much less with track use and sticky tires. Also the hubs are suspect at that mileage.

To do a quickee tie rod check, roll the drivers window down, put the key in and turn enough to unlock the column but don't start the motor. Stand outside the car with one hand on the wheel and one hand on the RF tire, gently turn the wheel back and forth, feeling for directly related motion of the tire - if there's a spot where the wheel turns with no motion of the tire, tie rod ends are the prime suspect, then the steering intermediate shaft, then the rack.

Jack up each corner, grab the wheel top and bottom and try to rock it in/out - any play here (assuming your lugnuts are tight) indicates a worn hub.

A whacked alignment and/or badly worn tires can make the car darty on bad pavement - there should be a sticky here with recommended alignment settings. The trick is finding a shop that has good equipment and will align to your spec and not just light up the green lights on the machine.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Nov 17 2010, 08:57 AM