1992 Camaro Z28 - F-Body Road Racing and Autocross Forums

Ok. I'm going to take one try at actually getting rid of this thing. I have a 1992 Camaro Z28 (there's a 21 page thread here: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...=1992&st=20 ). I have about a million dollars in this thing. I am looking to sell everything but the engine, computer and ignition parts. I want to find a 1991 C4 Corvette (M6) to stuff my engine into (If I can't manage to sell this thing towards the Corvette, I guess I may have to finish it, but I really want to move on to other things now).

I can't begin to guess what market value on this car might be...

The cage was built from parts from Alan Blaine and the car should be quite stout. I have over $1,400 invested in the parts for the cage (not counting materials for welding, paint and installation). The seat was bought new for the car and was $800 and there is a fiberglass cowl induction hood on the car (a "few hundred" bucks) and an Alan Blaine lexan rear spoiler. If someone wanted the cage, seat and shell (bare, with tail lights and such but no factory wiring harness, just a shell, cage and seat)... How about $4k or best offer.

T56 (LT1), bellhousing, GM factory flywheel, clutch (Centerforce DF with 1,200 miles on it). $1,400 OBO

B&M Ripper for T56 with Hurst black 6 speed knob. $125 OBO

I don't even have prices for all of this yet and it's late, so I'll list parts and finish this in the morning...or when I get to it.

Afco radiator with built in oil cooler.

Baker Precision power steering cooler.

Earls 13 row stacked platet cooler with 6 AN fittings (brand new)

Lingenfelter 3.5" aluminum driveshaft.

EB Miller C4HD brake kit

A "pile" of new Autometer gauges (tach, speedo, fuel gauge, water temp, oil temp, another oil temp, extra oil temp senders, oil pressure, voltmeter and maybe some I'm forgetting).

PC680MJT battery and bracket (new) with top mount terminals added.

3 quart high pressure accusump (brand new in the box)

Ground control weight jacks (front and rear, 1000 in lb front springs, 225 in lb rear)

Suspension techniques 35mm front sway bar with hardware

Factory 36mm hollow front sway bar

Steering column (gutted of all things that aren't needed) with a Grant steering wheel and a quick release hub.

Front control arms with energy suspension bushings.

Full set of 3rd gen Koni SA's

SFI window net

Window net hardware kit

Helmet Hook

Steering wheel hook

LCA's, PHB, Camber plates

Wink 4 panel mirror

Disk brake rear axle (aftermarket axles, eaton posi, 3.73 gears, aluminum support girdle, etc)

New Harwood lexan windshield.

SLP headers

"Shorty" exhaust (headers to a dump at the rear axle) with magnaflow race muffler.

Remote start solenoid

(2) 250 amp "contactors" (one was to disconnect the alternator, the other was to work as a remote master switch). Sold by Painless wiring.

60 amp breaker (water proof)

100 amp breaker (water proof)

I'm sure there's more...and I'll add it later (and try to sort out prices, I don't even know what the prices are for this stuff anymore, I've lost interest to the point that I've lost track of the prices of most of this stuff these days). Anyway, is there enough interest in this stuff to actually move enough of it to get this thing out of my garage? If anybody is interested in parts, speak up, we'll work out prices and see if I can sell enough to get rid of it all.

trackbird View Member Profile	Nov 15 2010, 06:42 AM Post #1
FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196	Ok. I'm going to take one try at actually getting rid of this thing. I have a 1992 Camaro Z28 (there's a 21 page thread here: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...=1992&st=20 ). I have about a million dollars in this thing. I am looking to sell everything but the engine, computer and ignition parts. I want to find a 1991 C4 Corvette (M6) to stuff my engine into (If I can't manage to sell this thing towards the Corvette, I guess I may have to finish it, but I really want to move on to other things now). I can't begin to guess what market value on this car might be... The cage was built from parts from Alan Blaine and the car should be quite stout. I have over $1,400 invested in the parts for the cage (not counting materials for welding, paint and installation). The seat was bought new for the car and was $800 and there is a fiberglass cowl induction hood on the car (a "few hundred" bucks) and an Alan Blaine lexan rear spoiler. If someone wanted the cage, seat and shell (bare, with tail lights and such but no factory wiring harness, just a shell, cage and seat)... How about $4k or best offer. T56 (LT1), bellhousing, GM factory flywheel, clutch (Centerforce DF with 1,200 miles on it). $1,400 OBO B&M Ripper for T56 with Hurst black 6 speed knob. $125 OBO I don't even have prices for all of this yet and it's late, so I'll list parts and finish this in the morning...or when I get to it. Afco radiator with built in oil cooler. Baker Precision power steering cooler. Earls 13 row stacked platet cooler with 6 AN fittings (brand new) Lingenfelter 3.5" aluminum driveshaft. EB Miller C4HD brake kit A "pile" of new Autometer gauges (tach, speedo, fuel gauge, water temp, oil temp, another oil temp, extra oil temp senders, oil pressure, voltmeter and maybe some I'm forgetting). PC680MJT battery and bracket (new) with top mount terminals added. 3 quart high pressure accusump (brand new in the box) Ground control weight jacks (front and rear, 1000 in lb front springs, 225 in lb rear) Suspension techniques 35mm front sway bar with hardware Factory 36mm hollow front sway bar Steering column (gutted of all things that aren't needed) with a Grant steering wheel and a quick release hub. Front control arms with energy suspension bushings. Full set of 3rd gen Koni SA's SFI window net Window net hardware kit Helmet Hook Steering wheel hook LCA's, PHB, Camber plates Wink 4 panel mirror Disk brake rear axle (aftermarket axles, eaton posi, 3.73 gears, aluminum support girdle, etc) New Harwood lexan windshield. SLP headers "Shorty" exhaust (headers to a dump at the rear axle) with magnaflow race muffler. Remote start solenoid (2) 250 amp "contactors" (one was to disconnect the alternator, the other was to work as a remote master switch). Sold by Painless wiring. 60 amp breaker (water proof) 100 amp breaker (water proof) I'm sure there's more...and I'll add it later (and try to sort out prices, I don't even know what the prices are for this stuff anymore, I've lost interest to the point that I've lost track of the prices of most of this stuff these days). Anyway, is there enough interest in this stuff to actually move enough of it to get this thing out of my garage? If anybody is interested in parts, speak up, we'll work out prices and see if I can sell enough to get rid of it all.

nape View Member Profile	Jan 1 2011, 01:03 AM Post #2
Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540	-Main hoop back stays at too acute angles -Roll bar padding by driver's head is wrong type. -Fire system pull likely out of reach by driver while strapped in. And I'm gone for New Years.

Blainefab View Member Profile	Jan 2 2011, 08:51 AM Post #3
I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874	QUOTE (nape @ Dec 31 2010, 05:03 PM) -Main hoop back stays at too acute angles -Roll bar padding by driver's head is wrong type. -Fire system pull likely out of reach by driver while strapped in. And I'm gone for New Years. I spotted 7 items, but, missed the fire pull location, so 8 My list: too soft padding cutoff switch terminals exposed harness wrap wrong - check 3bar adjusters on pass side I don't see a back brace on the seat fuel cell vent plumbing exposed backstay angle possibly wrong, needs to be measured. If angle is OK then there is the problem of where they land - no structure there. sharp corner of switch panel pointing at drivers knee. and a good catch by TJ on the fire pull location

Sidney View Member Profile	Jan 4 2011, 07:16 PM Post #4
Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 181 Joined: 13-January 04 From: Bloomington, IL Member No.: 122	Why not drop a stock LT1 in it and run CMC2? Sell the hood and lexan windshield. Tack weld the weight jackers and you're legal. Kent Owen's has a good motor for $1,500 for sale. Sidney CMC2 #64

trackbird View Member Profile	Jan 4 2011, 08:04 PM Post #5
FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196	QUOTE (Sidney @ Jan 4 2011, 02:16 PM) Why not drop a stock LT1 in it and run CMC2? Sell the hood and lexan windshield. Tack weld the weight jackers and you're legal. Kent Owen's has a good motor for $1,500 for sale. Sidney CMC2 #64 Interesting idea but the cage goes through the firewall (and there is no factory dash, and I think the C4HD brakes are illegal too). And I vowed to avoid an opti spark equipped engine at all costs in anything...ever. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Sadly the dash rule makes this an AIX car that's light on power. But we'll sort that out later I guess... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Blainefab View Member Profile	Jan 4 2011, 08:41 PM Post #6
I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874	QUOTE (trackbird @ Jan 4 2011, 12:04 PM) Sadly the dash rule makes this an AIX car that's light on power. But we'll sort that out later I guess... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Fabbing a dash would be trivial compared to the effort you have invested so far - wrap it up and target AI.