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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,099 Joined: 14-October 06 From: Mobile, Al Member No.: 1,410 ![]() |
I havent been to an HPDE with this car, but I am trying to sort it a little playing on the street(on/off ramps).
Here is what the car has.... Strano Springs Koni Da's on front foll soft Koni Sa's on rear full soft 1 LE front bar Stock rear bar Spohn poly LCA's in rear, I know I need some roto-joints Spohn Panhard bar, I know I need some roto-joints Does Not have LCA relocation brackets on the rear. Poly bushings throughout, totally new suspension.....all rebuilt. New alignment, no driver in car. Camber -.8 left, -.9 right Caster 4 something Total toe -.1 The car on turn in when it starts to rotate the rear end feels loose-disconnected for a split second, almost like it rises up a foot or two(thats an exaggeration, it does feel weird) then it finishes loading and bites down. That split second will scare the crap out of you. Will lowering the panhard rod fix this? Its very un nerving. |
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#2
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
First dump the poly LCA's.
Second, add some rebound to the shocks on both ends of the car. I find between 1/2 and 3/4 to full stiff is in the ballpark (tune to taste). And when I ran DA's, I ran 3-5 clicks of compression damping on mine too (3-4 front and 4-5 rear). Your results will vary, but our setups are similar enough that you can experiment from there (the compression is optional, but I found the car to be quick and stable with it, your results may vary). I'd also seriously consider a 35 or 36mm front sway bar (and then a 21-22mm rear would be the next step). It's worlds better than the 32mm bar. You'll be amazed at the change it makes in the car. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th June 2025 - 08:45 PM |