[FASTFATBOY]

I havent been to an HPDE with this car, but I am trying to sort it a little playing on the street(on/off ramps).

Here is what the car has....

Strano Springs

Koni Da's on front foll soft

Koni Sa's on rear full soft

1 LE front bar

Stock rear bar

Spohn poly LCA's in rear, I know I need some roto-joints

Spohn Panhard bar, I know I need some roto-joints

Does Not have LCA relocation brackets on the rear.

Poly bushings throughout, totally new suspension.....all rebuilt.

New alignment, no driver in car.

Camber -.8 left, -.9 right

Caster 4 something

Total toe -.1


The car on turn in when it starts to rotate the rear end feels loose-disconnected for a split second, almost like it rises up a foot or two(thats an exaggeration, it does feel weird) then it finishes loading and bites down.

That split second will scare the crap out of you. Will lowering the panhard rod fix this?

Its very un nerving.

[Blainefab]

I agree that getting the poly out of the rear end is the first place to spend money, but there are a few free things you can try. With those shocks/springs the car should be noticeably responsive to small changes in settings, unless the suspension bind is totally dominating the feel f the car:

-try dropping the rear tire pressure 3 to 5psi less than the front.

-try different settings on the shocks

-try swapping in the OEM rear control arms. The car may have a generally sloppier feel to it, but see if the transient response improves

-try loosening the swaybar end link nuts a turn or 2.

-try temporarily removing the rear bump stops. If the Moogs are too hard then get some of the OEM soft ones. If nothing changes then put the Moogs back on. Without bump stops there is a possibility that a large transient will cause snap oversteer, so be careful experimenting here.

-check the last alignment sheet for the rear toe measurement. If you have any rear toe out it will make the car squirrely.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jan 29 2011, 08:04 PM