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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.
Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions? Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it? The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) |
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#2
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
Alan - do you sell any complete cooling kits which will fit on a street car without any problems? For oil & water. I've go the LS3 so there's a few more wires running along the block, as well as the knock sensor harnesses to the side-mounted KR sensors. I'd be interested in kit(s) which include gauges and absolutely all accessories (including tidy gauge mounting, all tubing and connectors, etc). I removed the plastic ducting in front of the radiator many years ago. I don't know if those missing shrouds are part of the equation.
I also replaced the EVAP solenoid Friday night, and I noticed when I got to the site and went to fill up, that when I opened the gas cap it made a PSSH sound, which it never does. Someone on another forum asked if my oil smelled like gas, and it sort of does. Perhaps the EVAP has a role in the high oil level? This post has been edited by JimMueller: Mar 28 2011, 02:22 AM |
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#3
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Alan - do you sell any complete cooling kits which will fit on a street car without any problems? For oil & water. I've go the LS3 so there's a few more wires running along the block, as well as the knock sensor harnesses to the side-mounted KR sensors. I'd be interested in kit(s) which include gauges and absolutely all accessories (including tidy gauge mounting, all tubing and connectors, etc). I removed the plastic ducting in front of the radiator many years ago. I don't know if those missing shrouds are part of the equation. I also replaced the EVAP solenoid Friday night, and I noticed when I got to the site and went to fill up, that when I opened the gas cap it made a PSSH sound, which it never does. Someone on another forum asked if my oil smelled like gas, and it sort of does. Perhaps the EVAP has a role in the high oil level? Jim - I couldn't do a plug and play system on a modified street car, too many variables that would require customization. The radiator shrouding, both in front and rear of the radiator, and the chin air deflector, are important parts of the cooling system, need to be in place to operate correctly. Does your evap purge line empty into the intake manifold? Why did you replace the solenoid? |
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