[FASTFATBOY]

First off thanks for all the help so far, first HPDE went great. Was bumped to intermediate on day two and was allowed to solo, with the brakes smoked lol!

The car will get the following mods before the next HPDE. Car is a 99 six speed z28.

C6 front brakes
Cooling ducts
Pcs power steering pump and cooler
Rear swaybar (maybe)
Bar and belts (maybe)

I will add more questions as I think of them, to start.....

On the brake conversion I will use Kore3 stuff, I already have track brackets... do I use c5 or c6 rotors?
Where is the cheapest source for rotors and Hawk pads? Do I need special rotors such as dba?

What pad do I use on the front? I used dtc30 on front and HP+ on rear with stock calipers Use the same stuff with the conversion?

Cooling ducts....

Cheapest parts source. Do I use the black or Orange hose? Can I use the foglight holes for air intake? If so what do you use to go behind it? If not what duct to go into the air deflector under the car? I will use Blaine Fab ducts on the rotors.

Crotch belt, stock belts and 5 point harnesses with WS6 seats...

Put a hole in the seat bottom for the crotch belt? Trim shop do this? Pics?

To use both sets of belts, anyone seen an eyebolt the same thread as the factory bolt? That way I can clip the lap belts in and out in the factory location. Will that work? Will it clear the seat bottom?

The car does have some push,oversteer. Has a 1le bar on the front and a stock rear bar.what rear bar would compliment the front one? Has all UMI roto joints on the rear.

EDIT....

What underdrive pulley? I was told to stay away from ASP. This should help the PS.

Thanks guys.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Mar 31 2011, 03:58 PM

[trackbird]

C6 rotors are more durable than the C5's, so I'd use C6 rotors.

Brake ducts...Search for a post from Jon A here about his LT1 brake ducts using NACA ducts. You might want to at least look at it (if you can't find it, I'll dig it up...just let me know).

PS cooler. Look for the words "Baker Precision", posted by Jon A and that should help you there (I have one of those coolers that I will likely sell you once I get it back off of the car, but they are really inexpensive new as well).

Search for "Turn One" here and you'll find good info on P/S pumps...basically I'd buy theirs and probably their pulley too.

I'd use a 35-36mm front sway bar to reduce camber loss due to body roll (that improves front grip). Then anywhere from a stock to 21mm solid or 22 hollow rear bar (or an adjustable 22mm rear from hellwig which I can get you, as can Alan Blaine or Sam Strano).

The lower temp brake hose should be fine (of the two).

Properly, you should have the seat cut for the crotch strap. I'm not sure it's it's possible, but it's the proper way to install belts. Optionally consider a track day seat that you can bolt in and out.

I believe Alan Blaine has posted some seat belt bolt ideas/info regarding stock belts and harness clip in mounts here somewhere (I think a search will find that one too, not trying to be a pain about the search I just don't have time to go find all of these at this very moment).


Now, if you overheated the brakes on your first track day (on street tires and not making "huge" hp), I suspect that's partially the driver. Smooth inputs, controlled braking and such will reduce heat in the brakes and often new drivers tend to dive in and stab the pedal (as well as other forms of brake abuse). But I am not familiar with the track you were on. Ducts can't hurt, but you may find that with more experience they are not required (until you go to race rubber, etc).

Shifting understeer/oversteer is often the driver as well. Late braking can upset a car and cause a push on corner entry (or trail braking oversteer) and early throttle can loosen up a car on corner exit. I'd still do the 35-36mm front bar, but you may find that the car becomes more neutral as you gain experience (I'm not picking on you, this is something that more than a few members here have already seen first hand).

[Alien]

Now, if you overheated the brakes on your first track day (on street tires and not making "huge" hp), I suspect that's partially the driver. Smooth inputs, controlled braking and such will reduce heat in the brakes and often new drivers tend to dive in and stab the pedal (as well as other forms of brake abuse). But I am not familiar with the track you were on. Ducts can't hurt, but you may find that with more experience they are not required (until you go to race rubber, etc).

Careful Kevin. This guy could pass every car in Novice except one really fast one. Mitch already tried unsuccessfully to go down that road.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/road-racing/...-i-learned.html

Funny you mention searching. Seems to be a theme.

and no I have not done alot of research, although I have done some

This post has been edited by Alien: Mar 31 2011, 04:08 PM