[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

I bought used versions and replaced the upper radiator mount (which had been modified to use the FTRA), the upper radiator baffle (same), and installed a used lower radiator baffle which has been off since probably 1999 or 2000.

I spoke with LGM about the cooling concerns to see what they had used in their WC Camaro. They suggested starting with an oil cooler setup; cooling the oil may also bring down the water temp. But they only sold an adapter as well as the $1300 radiator with an included oil cooler.

Casey posted a parts list for what I presume was an LT1 in this thread: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...hl=mocal+setrab

Are those parts compatible & desirable for my scenario? Back in '97 I bought but never used a trans cooler setup from Art Carr, and it included a Setrab 970516 series, P/N 619NPT38. It appears to be an 18 row unit. Could I use this cooler for anything on this car?