[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

I spoke with Marvin at Setrab USA and he says they haven't run the NPT38 (NPT 3/8") fittings in a few years but there's nothing wrong with the unit; just need 3/8"-AN fittings. He says they use the same size unit in upper 400HP 370Z's regulary. If I was starting from scratch he'd probably start me on the next higher model, a 25-row, but he basically said to run it since I already have it and go bigger later if necessary. He suggested I would have a hard time finding 3/8" <-> 10AN fittings (my preference), but thought I'd be okay using 8AN. A bit of searching seems to indicate there are plenty of options for that fitting. Ordered some stuff today...

For the long brake pedal:
Motive 108 power bleeder
Castrol SRF (1L, I have an unopened second litre)
Doug Rippie SS piston inserts
hardbrakes.com Ti heat shims (backordered)
DTC-30 pads (spares)

This post has been edited by JimMueller: Apr 12 2011, 07:30 PM