[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[Blainefab]

Have you driven the car since fixing the radiator shrouds? Depending on your driving habits, you may not need any more cooling. What radiator are you using now? AC condenser still in place?

If you do need more, use an oil cooler with 1/2" NPT fittings, minimum, and -10an lines.

For a race car, I use a radiator with an integral oil/water cooler, with a remote oil filter. The block adapter depends on the headers being used. For street use I would add a thermostat for the oil cooler.

I do not recommend putting an air/oil cooler in front of the radiator - you are likely to have coolant cooling issues, again.