[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

I've daily driven it since re-installing the shrouds, but I've not driven it in anger. I have the stock LS1 radiator & AC condenser. I do have headers and I am not anxious to play adapter roulette to find a physically compatible system.

If required: The Improved Racing Mocal block adapter has an internal t-stat. What are the options for cooler placement if not in front of the radiator?

Something I thought about ordering for the brakes: proportioning valve. I read somewhere that if the front of the car is dipping too much during hard braking then I could use better braking in the rear. I'm using DTC-30's in the front and HPS's in the rear and it does seem to dip more. Should I consider the valve and if so, recommendations?

This post has been edited by JimMueller: Apr 12 2011, 09:19 PM