[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

My car came with the factory appearance package, so it has a two-piece ground effect on the front bumper. If that RKSport air dam is taller than my OEM one, all it's going to do is get torn up over speed bumps. I just replaced my original air dam a few weeks ago with a nice used unit.

[Blainefab]

My car came with the factory appearance package, so it has a two-piece ground effect on the front bumper.

heh - you've been running with essentially zero forced air flow to the radiator. In street driving the fans can do most of the job, but you need direct airflow on track - I suggest that you remove the front ground effect for your next track day. If everything else in the cooling system is operating to OEM specs then it will provide a baseline for oil and water temps.