[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[Blainefab]

Thanks for the pic, Jim. I've been getting little bits and pieces of info regarding your problem, and the pic really clears things up. The ground affects are OK - I've not seen this setup. The old RK stuff dropped the nose low enough to block airflow to the radiator intake, but this one doesn't block that area - leave it on.

When you said this

I bought used versions and replaced the upper radiator mount (which had been modified to use the FTRA), the upper radiator baffle (same), and installed a used lower radiator baffle which has been off since probably 1999 or 2000.

I took it to mean the deflector had not been on the car for the last 10 years. It's on there in the pic, so good. Was it in place at your track session that started this thread? I believe you said that the rest of the shrouding was not in place, but now is.

At this point, if the entire cooling system is back to OEM specs, I would try another track day, monitor oil and coolant temps, and see where you are at. If coolant is under 235 and oil under 290 with a good synthetic and you only do a few track days a year you don't need to spend a bunch of money on cooling.

If it's higher, or you'll be tracking it often, then the solution will get expensive given the need to retain A/C. There are a couple of companies that make a drop in radiator with integral oil cooler. BeCool and Ron Davis, at least. That, with a remote oil filter and thermostat and plumbing could run $1500 or more.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Apr 14 2011, 08:48 AM