[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

Dennis at Ron Davis recommended a product called AlumaSeal, does that have the same concerns?

Some options I found:
Ron Davis unit 11-16CA0002 w/o any coolers from Ron Davis: $771
"" w/ oil cooler: $871
LG Motorsports (Howe Racing?) custom with oil cooler: $1125 + accessories ("3X the OEM volume")
Griffin 6-898AE-JXX $625
1998 LS1 radiator (GM PN 52471356), RockAuto, $345
pre-97 LT1 radiator (GM PN 52466004), GMParts Giant, $224
SLP 52466 $290
Repair current unit

Any recommendations?

Edit: Didn't see the prior two replies before posting. It's my daily driver, so while I don't mind buying the Ron Davis unit, he said it usually takes 2 weeks for it to arrive. I just don't want to risk overheating while I'm waiting for it.

This post has been edited by JimMueller: Apr 20 2011, 09:58 PM