[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[trackbird]

I put a radiator based oil cooler in my car (a custom Afco racing radiator) and I've had water temp issues. I was seeing 242 degrees at nashville with oil temps north of 300 degrees (coming from the pan...which was getting cooked by the cross over pipe on the exhaust). Anyway, your issues may be different than what I'm fighting with the 3rd gen, but I'm going to move to a stand alone air cooler for my oil to take the extra thermal load out of the coolant. That's my only concern with using an oil to water cooler (if you're not having cooling issues, they work great, but if you are, I'm not sure we want to dump all of that oil heat into the coolant).

This assumes that the oil cooler isn't going to cause other temp/airflow problems that cause radiator cooling issues.