[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

RD offers either a tranny or an oil cooler, but not both on the same unit.

...bumper covers get droopy with age, and the bottom is not well supported

Tell me about it!

I spoke with Anthony at LGM again, and he clarified the previous information given by someone else. They still have the SuperCool radiators in storage, @$795 with the built-in oil cooler. The block adapter & line kit is an additional $450. He seems to think it's no more risky than having a new vehicle which has the trans coolers in the radiator (like the new Vette's). He said that the oil pressure is almost always higher than the water pressure, so if there was a failure oil would be added to the coolant, unless maybe you were idling and then you'd have to see the oil pressure drop.

So they're less expensive for the actual radiator, in stock, and apparently the same units they used on their World Challenge Camaro's? Is there any reason not to go with the SuperCooler? Since I'll already be in the area, is there such a thing as an aftermarket condenser which would make the A/C work even better?

I found this old thread on Tech, isn't 140* too cool?
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/road-racing/...l-radiator.html

This post has been edited by JimMueller: Apr 22 2011, 10:18 PM

[Blainefab]

RD offers either a tranny or an oil cooler, but not both on the same unit.

...bumper covers get droopy with age, and the bottom is not well supported

Tell me about it!

I spoke with Anthony at LGM again, and he clarified the previous information given by someone else. They still have the SuperCool radiators in storage, @$795 with the built-in oil cooler. The block adapter & line kit is an additional $450. He seems to think it's no more risky than having a new vehicle which has the trans coolers in the radiator (like the new Vette's). He said that the oil pressure is almost always higher than the water pressure, so if there was a failure oil would be added to the coolant, unless maybe you were idling and then you'd have to see the oil pressure drop.

So they're less expensive for the actual radiator, in stock, and apparently the same units they used on their World Challenge Camaro's? Is there any reason not to go with the SuperCooler? Since I'll already be in the area, is there such a thing as an aftermarket condenser which would make the A/C work even better?

I found this old thread on Tech, isn't 140* too cool?
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/road-racing/...l-radiator.html

Is the LGM radiator plug and play with your OEM AC condenser and fans? I could get an AFCO radiator with integral oil cooler to your door for about $400, but it would require fab to install. With either the LGM or RD solution you are paying a premium up front to eliminate the fab work. This is probably a good value if it is truly plug n play, but if your car ends up in a fab shop anyway - not so much.

Will the block and line kit work with your headers and motor? That link is Pre-LS3 old, I'm pretty sure you need an adapter that comes off the filter pad. If that $450 includes the filter pad adapter and a remote filter mount and bracket that will fit your motor in your engine bay and the premade -AN10 lines that tie them all together with the cooler then that is a good deal. Caution tho - buying race parts for a street car can be a crap shoot - we don't know what EXACTLY is in your engine bay.

Yes, 140deg is too cool. Yes, controlling engine temps with a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator is a PITA, btdt. For a mostly track car, it works kinda, if you remember to pull the cardboard before your first session. For a mostly street car it would suck, so I recommend budgeting for an oil thermostat: add $200+ with hose ends http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product...Oil_Thermostats

Also, esp if the radiator cooling system is operating well, you can use a higher temp coolant thermostat to warm the system up faster, and keep it warmer under lightly loaded conditions.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Apr 23 2011, 08:26 PM