[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

Alan - LGM claims their radiator is completely plug'n'play with the other OEM parts with just some minor trimming of the upper radiator mount. It includes the heater & level fittings. I'm pretty sure Anthony said the $450 kit includes everything needed to attach the radiator to the oil pan. The radiator has 1/2" NPT fittings and they use -10AN on the adapter. I want to ask them if their kit includes an oil thermostat... if not, it might be less expensive to use the Improved Racing adapter earlier in the thread.

I've previously been told the outside dimensions/design of the LS1/LS6/LS3 shotblocks are the same, so if that's true I would just need to worry about making it fit with other items LGM can't see (headers, harnesses, etc.)

The guy who mentioned the 140* replied to me in a PM. I have the LS2 water pump & a 160* thermostat:

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that was becuase at the time I was running the meziere electric H2O pump at the same time along with the SLP fan switch. If I put the fan on "hi" and the electric pump running like it was at a sustianed 3750rpm it would cool like it was no ones buisiness. the problem i ran into was that as soon as I ran sustained RPM over 3750 temp would climb way high because the pump couldnt keep up.

If you run a stock pump with the LG radiator, you will be golden. The pump will match cooling ability of the radiator. But when you cant move enough water at high RPM, it doesnt matter how much radiator you have. There in, lies the problem with electric pumps. Low RPM (street driving) they are great. You start really spinning the motor for more than 10 seconds, you got issues.

I did use their block adapter. It worked great on the LS6. I have zero experience with the LS3 motor so I cant comment on it.

When the car was still being street driven I used antifreeze with a little water wetter. When it went dedicated race car I was using distilled water
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So I'm inferring that you recommend using a Dexcool/distilled water mix unless otherwise required on the track? While I have seen water temps in the 240's, it hasn't blown the cap. Maybe 5 years ago I blew a head gasket on the interstate and it all came out the overflow cap.

A couple more threads in the past from Mitch & Glenn:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-i...-installed.html
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-i...experience.html

This post has been edited by JimMueller: Apr 24 2011, 01:10 PM