[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[Blainefab]

Looks like it fits fine with the AC condenser. You'll want to seal up all those gaps in the corners.

If you replace the heater hoses, prepare for a reaming, or skin grafting if you do it yourself. The last few I've done I just used heater hose from the pump to the firewall, zip tied up to a STB to keep it away from the header. The OEM metal sections are swaged to the rubber, and all of them are about to fail in the next few years. EVERY one of the LT1 cars I've seen has some leaks at those swages. The metal part under the shock tower can't be removed with the engine in place with out a sawzall.

Canton block adapter:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2010_04_02/IMG_3391.JPG)

remote oil filter:

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2010_04_02/IMG_3395.JPG)