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#1
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.
Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions? Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it? The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) |
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#2
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,099 Joined: 14-October 06 From: Mobile, Al Member No.: 1,410 ![]() |
Aluminum is soft, there needs to be a rubber seperator wherever it touch's metal. Cheap thin rubber floormat works well.
I have a big Griffin in my LT1 car, made to fit with a/c condenser, you check with them? |
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
Aluminum is soft, there needs to be a rubber seperator wherever it touch's metal. Cheap thin rubber floormat works well. I have a big Griffin in my LT1 car, made to fit with a/c condenser, you check with them? I didn't call them before, but I did lookup the part number and listed it in post #33. I just spoke with Benji and he said their HP ratings are to the wheels, and they are custom built, so 1-2 week lead time. So similar lead time to Ron Davis, but less money ($625 vs. $770). He didn't have specifics on what is modified to make it work. I spoke with Bobby @ LGM and he said you just disconnect the bottom AN line on the block adapter to drain the oil from the cooler. He didn't make any mention of needing to seal the corners/ends. Found some other photos of the Super Cool radiator. I wonder why this doesn't show the side brackets / modified upper radiator mount? http://xse.com/leres/ss/radiator.html |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 12th May 2025 - 02:19 PM |