[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[FASTFATBOY]

Aluminum is soft, there needs to be a rubber seperator wherever it touch's metal. Cheap thin rubber floormat works well.

I have a big Griffin in my LT1 car, made to fit with a/c condenser, you check with them?

[JimMueller]

Aluminum is soft, there needs to be a rubber seperator wherever it touch's metal. Cheap thin rubber floormat works well.

I have a big Griffin in my LT1 car, made to fit with a/c condenser, you check with them?

I didn't call them before, but I did lookup the part number and listed it in post #33. I just spoke with Benji and he said their HP ratings are to the wheels, and they are custom built, so 1-2 week lead time. So similar lead time to Ron Davis, but less money ($625 vs. $770). He didn't have specifics on what is modified to make it work.

I spoke with Bobby @ LGM and he said you just disconnect the bottom AN line on the block adapter to drain the oil from the cooler. He didn't make any mention of needing to seal the corners/ends.

Found some other photos of the Super Cool radiator. I wonder why this doesn't show the side brackets / modified upper radiator mount?
http://xse.com/leres/ss/radiator.html

[Blainefab]

I spoke with Bobby @ LGM and he said you just disconnect the bottom AN line on the block adapter to drain the oil from the cooler. He didn't make any mention of needing to seal the corners/ends.

Found some other photos of the Super Cool radiator. I wonder why this doesn't show the side brackets / modified upper radiator mount?
http://xse.com/leres/ss/radiator.html

Ya, with -AN lines it's easy to pop a couple of them off to fully drain the system. But, consider not draining the cooler and just letting some old oil mix with new. Or, pull the plugs and crank unloaded till you see oil pressure. Or, install an Accusump to precharge the system. Or, figure out a way to gravity fill the cooler from the top. The goal is to not run the motor at zero oil pressure while the cooler and lines are filling.

Seal all gaps around the radiator - the goal is to not allow any air to pass from the front of the car into the engine bay without doing some work along the way - either aero or cooling or both.

The rework of the radiator top cap is shown on that link, he did it differently than Mitch did. That's a pretty good link, except that 250 oil temp is not a problem, it's just fine with a quality synthetic. All the work he did on the external oil cooler was a step backward, IMO.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: May 22 2011, 06:55 AM