[JimMueller]

I took my daily driver to a little road race practice course today. Each lap was only a minute and I'd stay out there for only 5-10 minutes. The first session I just wanted to work on tire temps, then I let it cool down. I actually logged the second session and have some questions.

Water temp: I live in Florida, so I run 100% distilled water with maybe 1-2 bottles of water wetter. After 7 laps, I noticed the coolant temp was at the 3/4 mark so I brought the car in. The scan tool later revealed the temp had peaked at 244*. Isn't that a bit warm? Solutions?

Brakes: In the front I have standard C6 calipers, Trackbrackets, DTC-30 pads, new standard C6 rotors. In the rear I have Powerslot rotors and HPS pads. All stainless lines and using SRF fluid. While it didn't have a problem stopping, the pedal became easier to depress and started grabbing hard closer to the floor. I didn't like the feel of this, how do I remedy it?

The log also shows it was pulling 4* of timing on all WOT sections. I bet I have a knock sensor code (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JimMueller]

Still haven't bought the new radiator, but the water level hasn't dropped since I topped it off at the dealer that day. RD never called me back to give me the shop number of the place in Virginia which installed it recently. I wanted to get the information direct from the installers mouth on ease of installation. Not sure if LG offers a warranty on their radiator, but I'm not crazy for RD's warranty length of 90 days.

Found this recent thread dealing with the Mocal block adapter:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-i...ge-install.html

He couldn't get the 8AN fittings to fit nicely with the block. Could I consider using a different type of fitting/tubing with the Mocal block? Will all of these oil cooler solutions require doing more than a normal oil change to change the oil? I don't want to complicate oil changes.

This post has been edited by JimMueller: May 22 2011, 05:01 AM