[ninetres]

The Good news:
Been waiting to get a chance to edit a LOT of footage from my last day at Infineon Raceway a few weeks back. AWESOME DAY. My CAR was putting up some serious lap time (IMO) all things considered. With lots of Blaine Fab love on the car, it was kicking ass and taking Porsches names. It seemed to understeer and its response to feedback was sort of inconsistent I felt.....but somehow I was ripping off 1:56s, in my FULL WEIGHT+ street driven car.....with a passenger, and a bit of traffic on most laps. I think the understeer might have been due to the fact that I was pushing the car a lot harder than I was on my previous outing here....and its a pig.


The Ugly:

Hurt the motor coming around the carousel near the end of the day. My best friend/mechanic was driving and the car lost oil pressure (25psi at idle) after coming around it. I noticed throughout the day that if I had the entry just right, and the car was biting real hard.....the pressure would dip for a split second at the end of the run-out.... and then shoot right back up. Guess the ol' LS1 got tired of that shit by the end of the day. It likely spun a/some rod bearings. It was knocking GOOD by the time we limped it back into the pits.


Anywho, here is a couple of teaser clips before we compile the full days edit:

Carousel-->double pass
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bcqonLzyEg...;feature=relmfu


Camaro > GTR
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d5CZW2mjUs&feature=plcp

[ninetres]

Oh! And I am VERY happy with the stoptechs. My main issue with braking is what I perceive to be the inconsistency of the factory hydraulics. They do seem inconsistent with exactly how hard they bite. They are always there, and work well.....but sometimes they find some extra muscle in the heavy braking zones and I think to myself "Whoa.....where the fuck did that stopping power come from???"

[Blainefab]

They do seem inconsistent with exactly how hard they bite.

Might be a mismatch in the pads, race front and street rear. I tried the HPS on my Vette and didn't care for them. If the Carbotech are working for you in front you might ask them what a good match for the rear would be.

Did the telltale stay on the TA?

[ninetres]

They do seem inconsistent with exactly how hard they bite.

Might be a mismatch in the pads, race front and street rear. I tried the HPS on my Vette and didn't care for them. If the Carbotech are working for you in front you might ask them what a good match for the rear would be.

Did the telltale stay on the TA?

Yes, got the tq arm adjusted perfect according to the zip tie....it didn't hop unless I downshifted aggressively during braking. The brakes were inconsistent before I swapped to the HPS in the rear. Carbotech recommended the XP12 in front (still have them in....but they probably saw their last day), and the XP8 in the rear....but it hopped pretty bad with those. They did mention some guys run the 6 in the rear. I just didn't want to risk spending big coin on another set of "race" pads only to have it still hop....so I decided to go with the HPS. I really think its the ABS system or something.

[Blainefab]

They do seem inconsistent with exactly how hard they bite.

Might be a mismatch in the pads, race front and street rear. I tried the HPS on my Vette and didn't care for them. If the Carbotech are working for you in front you might ask them what a good match for the rear would be.

Did the telltale stay on the TA?

Yes, got the tq arm adjusted perfect according to the zip tie....it didn't hop unless I downshifted aggressively during braking. The brakes were inconsistent before I swapped to the HPS in the rear. Carbotech recommended the XP12 in front (still have them in....but they probably saw their last day), and the XP8 in the rear....but it hopped pretty bad with those. They did mention some guys run the 6 in the rear. I just didn't want to risk spending big coin on another set of "race" pads only to have it still hop....so I decided to go with the HPS. I really think its the ABS system or something.

You can use more pad in the rear with the EUTA, but Ya, it can get expensive buying pads that don't work. If you are replacing fronts anyway, you might try the Raybestos ST41F/ST43R from Porterfield. Good combo. Probably need to rebed the pads when changing brands, or use a disc brake surface conditioning pad to get all of the old transfer deposits off. Other stuff - check that the rear caliper pins are sliding free, bleed, bleed the ABS, bleed again, check that the rear shock fasteners are tight - 80#ft on the big bottom nut, and plenty of squish on the top rubbers.

[dailydriver]

check that the rear shock fasteners are tight - 80#ft on the big bottom nut, and plenty of squish on the top rubbers.

Paper clip shaped "squish", or just slightly oval shaped?? (ALWAYS wondered about this, never knew exactly.)

[Blainefab]

check that the rear shock fasteners are tight - 80#ft on the big bottom nut, and plenty of squish on the top rubbers.

Paper clip shaped "squish", or just slightly oval shaped?? (ALWAYS wondered about this, never knew exactly.)

Try both and see if there is a difference.