[FASTFATBOY]

Keep in mind this is NOT a dedicated track car, it is a full on street car( I long hauled the Power Tour with it, and may do it again) that gets track day'd.

Keep in mind, I did my first event with a good seat in the car and it was very cold 45* high. Dunno if this was the reason for the push or not but I pushed the car further than I ever have that weekend as it was much easier to drive it hard.


I have Strano springs, 1 LE front bar, stock rear bar, Koni Da on front SA on rear, UMI rotojoints on rear, LCA relocation brackets. UMI frame connectors.


I am debating going after more grip. Since I put a seat in the car I realize whats going on with the car when you push it hard.

275 NT-01/ R888 vs a 315 NT-05, I am looking at cost, I have 2 sets of 17x9.5 wheels. If I move to a 315 I will have to buy all new wheels/spacers/studs and consider wheel bearing wear. The 315 NT-05 is a cheaper tire than the 275 NT-01 or R888 and will last longer I would think. Thoughts on which has more grip and life?

I have noticed a push, it has always had one but now seems much worse on high speed corners .
More rear bar help this?
More camber help this?
Am I trying to enter the corner with too much speed?


I only have 1.1 camber in the front as thats all I can get with stock stuff....I am killing the left front outer edge of the tire.
If I slot the lower control arm holes will I have enough tie rod end to set toe? They look way out now.
Would you buy offset LCA bushings and slot, or one or the other?
Or buy a shorter upper control arm?
I feel I need at least 1.8 camber but how will this effect street tire wear?


Anyone used the Global West front lower control arm bushing kit? Thoughts?

Thanks guys all opinions welcome.

[trackbird]

Based on being a street car...stick with the 275 tire. They fit better and they have a better chance of coming up to temp during more sedate driving (you may never get them "hot", but you'll NEVER get a 315 hot on the street). Less trammeling and rubbing issues too.

Put a 35mm solid front sway bar on it. That will help with the camber loss during body roll. It's counter intuitive to add front bar when you have understeer, but these cars lose camber during body roll. Less roll means less camber loss. So I'd start there. I ran the Global West upper front control arms and I could get -2.2 camber and all the castor I ever wanted (up to about 9 degrees).

Make sure your rear LCA's are "flat" at ride height (or even slightly lower in the front). That causes roll understeer instead of roll oversteer. I never ran relocation brackets on my cars, but if you do....you typically need to drill a hole right between the bracket and the axle bracket (basically through the weld) to get the right height.

Then I'd try a 22mm hollow (or 21mm solid...or the hellwig adjustable kit...which I have one of for sale) on the rear.