Something weird happened at Barber last weekend - F-Body Road Racing and Autocross Forums

Lets back up to this March, the car snapped around on me at Barber in turn 5. I hear a squeak in the front, put it on stands to look and find nothing, go out for the next session and the steering wheel is crooked. I go right back in, back on stands and find nothing. Go drive the paddock and the wheel is straight.

Get home and find the LF shock top is broken off the Koni and the shaft had hung up in the shock mount and caused the wheel to be crooked.

This past weekend, I had a mismatched set of tires on the car trying to kill them off. I set the shocks per Lee Grimes@Koni on the front 8 on rebound and 4 on compression which is opposite of what I usually run.

Took the car out and it was all over the damn place, no grip.

Come back in, decide to put a better set of tires on the car and set the shocks back like I had been running them, 9 on compression and 5 on rebound. Car was back but the steering wheel was crooked.

So I check the shocks on the front, not broken. Check my newly slotted front lowers and they are fine(adjusters were tack welded) , toe adjusters have not moved.

Scratch me head a little bit and think what else would make the steering wheel crooked and look at the rear tires in the wheel well, the damn rear end is crooked in the car ....WTF?? By almost an inch back on the drivers side.

So I pull out the tool box and adjust that side back up, all adjusters were tight on the lower control arms. I have UMI Roto-Joints on the rear with relocation brackets.

Was fine the rest of the weekend, steering wheel was back perfectly straight. When I got home I checked the car over very good and found nothing.

Any ideas what caused this?

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Nov 10 2013, 01:39 PM

FASTFATBOY View Member Profile	Nov 10 2013, 01:29 PM Post #1
Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,099 Joined: 14-October 06 From: Mobile, Al Member No.: 1,410	Lets back up to this March, the car snapped around on me at Barber in turn 5. I hear a squeak in the front, put it on stands to look and find nothing, go out for the next session and the steering wheel is crooked. I go right back in, back on stands and find nothing. Go drive the paddock and the wheel is straight. Get home and find the LF shock top is broken off the Koni and the shaft had hung up in the shock mount and caused the wheel to be crooked. This past weekend, I had a mismatched set of tires on the car trying to kill them off. I set the shocks per Lee Grimes@Koni on the front 8 on rebound and 4 on compression which is opposite of what I usually run. Took the car out and it was all over the damn place, no grip. Come back in, decide to put a better set of tires on the car and set the shocks back like I had been running them, 9 on compression and 5 on rebound. Car was back but the steering wheel was crooked. So I check the shocks on the front, not broken. Check my newly slotted front lowers and they are fine(adjusters were tack welded) , toe adjusters have not moved. Scratch me head a little bit and think what else would make the steering wheel crooked and look at the rear tires in the wheel well, the damn rear end is crooked in the car ....WTF?? By almost an inch back on the drivers side. So I pull out the tool box and adjust that side back up, all adjusters were tight on the lower control arms. I have UMI Roto-Joints on the rear with relocation brackets. Was fine the rest of the weekend, steering wheel was back perfectly straight. When I got home I checked the car over very good and found nothing. Any ideas what caused this? This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Nov 10 2013, 01:39 PM

Blainefab View Member Profile	Nov 13 2013, 03:23 AM Post #2
I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874	If that is an eyebolt that I see in the LCA hole, and if you use it to tie the car down to the trailer - I recommend replacing it with a load rated eye nut. You'd need to go to a 5/8" dia to approach the load rating of your tie down straps. Pulling sideways like that derates the load rating by about 50%. If you have room to clear the LCA end, just drill a hole in the back of the LCA bracket to clip your tiedown onto. Or better yet, use the factory tie down spots on the chassis.